milling a keyway (talk to me like I'm an idiot)

[knighty]

I need to mill a keyway into a shaft, I've got a bridgeport, haven't used it yet

1 1/2 inch shaft (about 1.5ft long)

keyway in the taper lock bushes is 3/8 x 3/16 (so 3/8wide 3/16 deep?)

so I'll need a 3/8 end mill? something to hold it?

and a 1.5inch shaft (I've got vices for the mill)


can someone talk to me like I'm an idiot? what kind of shaft do I need? what kind of end mill do I need (is it even an end mill I need?)

what kid of speed do I need to run at?


happy enough to feed the shaft/move the table by eye

there's 2 keyways, one at the end of the shaft the other in the middle

 

[MattF]

(talk to me like I'm an idiot)​

C'mon. You know that'll happen without having to state it.

 

[wyn]

A slot drill would be the thing. you can "plunge" it into the material to get the depth.

An end mill won't cut downwards (like a drill).

 

[123hotchef]

i learnt that today

 

[Hood]

A slot drill would be the thing. you can "plunge" it into the material to get the depth.

An end mill won't cut downwards (like a drill).

That used to be the way but now the definition is blurred as most end mills (as they are called) are now centre cutting.

 

[Hood]

I need to mill a keyway into a shaft, I've got a bridgeport, haven't used it yet

1 1/2 inch shaft (about 1.5ft long)

keyway in the taper lock bushes is 3/8 x 3/16 (so 3/8wide 3/16 deep?)

so I'll need a 3/8 end mill? something to hold it?

and a 1.5inch shaft (I've got vices for the mill)


can someone talk to me like I'm an idiot? what kind of shaft do I need? what kind of end mill do I need (is it even an end mill I need?)

what kid of speed do I need to run at?


happy enough to feed the shaft/move the table by eye

there's 2 keyways, one at the end of the shaft the other in the middle

You will need a 3/8" cutter and either a collet chuck with a suitable collet or an R8 collet for a 3/8" cutter. A 2 or 3 flute cutter would probably be best but if you get a 3 flute make sure it is centre cutting.
Regarding the shaft, presume just mild steel so just get a bit of bright bar.
For clamping, on a Bridgeport I would probably not use a vice but rather just use the table slot to set the bar down on and clamp using step clamps.
Spindle speed will depend on type of cutter you have/get but the manufacturers will give you recommendations for that.

 

[ukracer]

I need to mill a keyway into a shaft, I've got a bridgeport, haven't used it yet

1 1/2 inch shaft (about 1.5ft long)

keyway in the taper lock bushes is 3/8 x 3/16 (so 3/8wide 3/16 deep?)

so I'll need a 3/8 end mill? something to hold it?

and a 1.5inch shaft (I've got vices for the mill)


can someone talk to me like I'm an idiot? what kind of shaft do I need? what kind of end mill do I need (is it even an end mill I need?)

what kid of speed do I need to run at?


happy enough to feed the shaft/move the table by eye

there's 2 keyways, one at the end of the shaft the other in the middle

Hiya Michael...

 

[premmington]

Don't talk to me about "keyways".

Cutting slots into shafts is easy - it is the pulley that caused me problems over Xmas.

Repair job - broaching cutter broke - had to mount pulley in lathe and scrap out the slot using the powerfeed on tool holder - I had no other option - took me hours!

 

[Brad93]

Yes not all 3 flutes made equal!

Mark your keyway with sharpie or layout blue.

You will need to centre the shaft. Then use your hand wheels (or DRO if posh) to measure the cut. Make sure you take the diameter of the cutter off.

 

[Brad93]

Now you can take the cuts in small, say 20thou depth cuts.

This tends to come out over size.

I tend to plunge to finish depth and then feed quite slowly till the right length is reached.

 

[ukracer]

Sorry about that some might get it...others won't
Seriously one thing you need if you have just got your bridgeport is a cheap box of parallels and a v block. I have found these most useful.
You could use either of those to secure your bat while cutting keyway. But as has been said it's better to clamp to the Bed if cutting a bar keyway.

For that you will find clamps useful and some 14mm diameter all thread plus nuts. Just cut some steel bar and drill some 15mm holes so you can straddle the bar.


If you can get a clamping kit so much the better.

Do you watch @doubleboost if not get subscribed to his channel. It might not be the most technical instruction but its the best and most useful in the real world. John's on here so if you need a specific process John will most likely know which episode it's in.

 

[8ob]

Don't talk to me about "keyways".

Cutting slots into shafts is easy - it is the pulley that caused me problems over Xmas.

Repair job - broaching cutter broke - had to mount pulley in lathe and scrap out the slot using the powerfeed on tool holder - I had no other option - took me hours!

Needs must the devil drives

Bob

 

[Brad93]

You will need a v block or parallel

 

[ukracer]

Now you can take the cuts in small, say 20thou depth cuts.

This tends to come out over size.

I tend to plunge to finish depth and then feed quite slowly till the right length is reached.

I forgot to add what Brad's said except these guys are long term users and will take way bigger cuts than the likes of you or me.
I found the hard way it's better to finish a job slowly than to not finish it at all due to a broken cutter.

 

[8ob]

You can get keyless taperloc`s, we have them on some of our kit and they don't slip. What's the application?

Bob

 

[Brad93]

A key can always be secured with some Loctite if it does come out a bit loose.

 

[ukracer]

You will need a v block or parallel

Found these ,two of my most useful tools for the bridgeport.

 

[premmington]

Needs must the devil drives

Bob

Broaching in a hydraulic press is never good.

 

[Brad93]

Broaching in a hydraulic press is never good.

Exactly why I haven't done any yet

 

[Hood]

I would love to see your faces if you knew what I sometimes use to drive a broach