Tinbasherdan
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Lewis_RX8
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I got a dingleberry made in US of A hone with my lathe for some reason lol ,, people I know at Cummins field service seem to prefer to dingleberry hone. I imagine that is the OEM recommendation but could have just been the mechanics preference , I could ask if you want?
Tinbasherdan
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Yes that’s the dingleberry type! I’m leaning towards those at the moment as I’ve seen a few using them. Issue the first is to get the engine unseized. Seems it got unsheeted while we were moving house and it was being stored, and waters got in the intakethis is what I am thinking of and got with lathe forgot the proper name for it cheers seadog
Pete.
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Yep especially with the ball hone. You'll hone the middle twice for each time you hone the ends so you might want to add a moment of dwell at easch end.
Of course, with a spring hone you can bell-mouth the ends if you over-travel too far.
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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A Flex hone or the cheap three legged spring hones don't have enough pressure to remove metal from the cylinder wall they are only designed for glaze busting, deburring and surface conditioning.
If your using a sunnen type hone where the pressure is by rack and pinion design, they are designed to finish hone to size a rebored bore, then beware.
Anyway it's a cummins why not just replace the liner and piston for that cylinder???
If your using a sunnen type hone where the pressure is by rack and pinion design, they are designed to finish hone to size a rebored bore, then beware.
Anyway it's a cummins why not just replace the liner and piston for that cylinder???
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frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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I always use the 3 legged sort.....I have sorted loads of old tractors with one of these......
It's easy to concentrate on the extremes of the bore to get em better looking.....
they wont remove the ridge.....BUT can u still get ridge dodger rings......?
Dont know about Cummins but there s plenty of engine rebuild kits for all kinds of engines and most are very good...
they all seem to made in India......I have fitted loads and never a problem....
It's easy to concentrate on the extremes of the bore to get em better looking.....
they wont remove the ridge.....BUT can u still get ridge dodger rings......?
Dont know about Cummins but there s plenty of engine rebuild kits for all kinds of engines and most are very good...
they all seem to made in India......I have fitted loads and never a problem....
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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I have a "Ridge Reamer" made by Blue point which removes the metal above the ridge so the rings don't get smashed. It's a way of overcoming the ridge problem, it works at a push for someone who doesn't want the outlay of a full rebore, it would not be my choice but it does work.
I have used it on engines and provided you are careful it solves a possible problem and comeback of a faulty engine with smashed rings.
Snap-on Store
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8ob
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At this stage the bore needs a clean up just to expose possible water damage, those two shilling three legged things and a bit of paraffin would do that job. If its rescueable take half a thou out of the bore with a delapena and put it back together, liners are cheap so I wouldn't spent too much time musing over it,
Bob
Bob
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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A proper hone...At this stage the bore needs a clean up just to expose possible water damage, those two shilling three legged things and a bit of paraffin would do that job. If its rescueable take half a thou out of the bore with a delapena and put it back together, liners are cheap so I wouldn't spent too much time musing over it,
Bob
.And a Wolf gut buster to drive it???
8ob
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A proper hone...
And a Wolf gut buster to drive/turn it???
Yes a gut buster , kin things
Worst tool you can ever own is a bore gauge, start poking one of those down a bore and you could talk yourself into rebuilding just about everything you take the lid off.
Bob
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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When I worked for Lansing Bagnall, Asda had one of our 2.0 tonne fork lifts, Perkins 4.108, they started it about 6am and left ticking over all day until about 10pm. Most loads were by tail lift only a few with the fork lift.
They complained it was hard to start, using oil and smoking. It had its first service at 100 hrs by 400hrs it was smoking.
I stripped the engine, between 8 and 12 thou ovality on all bores. We fitted a new engine under warranty and gave it 200 hrs on running in oil, now that stuff is thin....
They complained it was hard to start, using oil and smoking. It had its first service at 100 hrs by 400hrs it was smoking.
I stripped the engine, between 8 and 12 thou ovality on all bores. We fitted a new engine under warranty and gave it 200 hrs on running in oil, now that stuff is thin....
I made a nodding donkey to drive my two delapena hones - a bit of 4 inch pipe, with a .8kW motor flange mounted on the back. An outboard gearbox (not a very big one, quite small actually) at the front to take the drive (by some 20mm conduit if I recall) from the motor. Made a pair of flexible joint adapters, held in with an r pin. The stop start and speed pot to a small vsd completed it. The swivel is just a "U" made from 10mm bar, which I bolt to the top of my meddings pillar drill - up and downsy all day long - the critical and most boring part of engine building...
Tinbasherdan
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RE liners- the Cummins 6bt doesn’t have liners, it’s a machined block so if it’s beyond saving it’s paying through the nose to get one or two cylinders over bored and matching pistons inserted. I’m hoping the damage won’t be too great as it can’t have sat for that long
8ob
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Dan, overbore any duff cylinders to take a liner and bring them back to standard, no new pistons needed.
Bob
Tinbasherdan
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