How do i fix this pulley?

[brightspark]

make a collar for it a good press fit. clean the crack up and run some durafix or technoweld in once the collar is fitted .about an hours work and an easy solid job it welds pot metal as well as crappy ally

 

[Screwdriver]

I could actually glue the damn thing to the shaft. It would fix the wobble - stop giving me bad ideas

Modern chemical metals like JB Weld are amazingly strong and sticky! Sets rock hard too. If you were to start machining it or boring it out, you risk the whole thing falling to pieces. It hasn't started to break up because it's too strong.

 

[Seadog]

It is a 2gs to be exact.

It's the motor pulley, isn't it?

 

[daedalusminos]

That's what I just realised, the motor pulley is much smaller bore, something may be available and adaptable.

 

[RichardM]

How much does a new one cost or even a pair of new ones?

5 Grooves A-SPA - Aluminium Pulleys

Stepped Pulleys 5 grooves A-SPA

aluminiumpulleys.com

 

[Seadog]

This is what the spindle pulley looks like

 

[Kram]

What is the length of the whole thing and ID of each step?
No way I would try to repair that, it looks rubbish zinc more than aluminium.
Its about 15 quid worth material to cut a new one from solid alu, and quite enjoyable.

I would cheat. Central shaft and the first pully as one peice. In my case the bore was 28mm, first pulley 63mm and hub OD 75mm. The remaining peices to shrink fit from suitable diameter bar. In bigger sizes cast iron taper lock pulleys are cheap and I bored out a 180mm one, shunk fit it onto my 3 step hub for the lathe spindle.

Having each pulley seperate for turning helps as you can use a VCGT1604 tool straight in and it will have the edge length for it, and you wont have clearance issues with the tool post hitting the bigger steps. Id already turned the small pulley in pic before shrink fitting but it shows the problem.

Then the big pulley

 

[Anguz]

As above.. make you own

Stuff you have made today

getting there. Just the ram mounts to do now. Felt crap from 2nd jab today so progress was slow. I know you said your’e not finished, but surely its not a good idea to 1) weld a plate thats pulling to the centre of the box and 2) on the side where the weld on the box is?

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[fizzy]

What is the length of the whole thing and ID of each step?
No way I would try to repair that, it looks rubbish zinc more than aluminium.
Its about 15 quid worth material to cut a new one from solid alu, and quite enjoyable.

I would cheat. Central shaft and the first pully as one peice. In my case the bore was 28mm, first pulley 63mm and hub OD 75mm. The remaining peices to shrink fit from suitable diameter bar. In bigger sizes cast iron taper lock pulleys are cheap and I bored out a 180mm one, shunk fit it onto my 3 step hub for the lathe spindle.

Having each pulley seperate for turning helps as you can use a VCGT1604 tool straight in and it will have the edge length for it, and you wont have clearance issues with the tool post hitting the bigger steps. Id already turned the small pulley in pic before shrink fitting but it shows the problem.

View attachment 323847
Then the big pulley
View attachment 323848

That is a lovely job!

 

[ronan]

It's off a progress 2g drill. Hard to find and turning up from the solid not very easy.

The pulley on my progress 2g was in a mess too, a friend, who gave me the drill made a new one out of steel. I'll take a piccy tomorrow and upload it.

 

[fizzy]

As above.. make you own

Stuff you have made today

getting there. Just the ram mounts to do now. Felt crap from 2nd jab today so progress was slow. I know you said your’e not finished, but surely its not a good idea to 1) weld a plate thats pulling to the centre of the box and 2) on the side where the weld on the box is?

www.mig-welding.co.uk

And yours! Very nice.
So what is the secret? Parting tool down to the id and then topslide at an angle for the tapered sides?
Be very easy on a CNC

 

[fizzy]

The pulley on my progress 2g was in a mess too, a friend, who gave me the drill made a new one out of steel. I'll take a piccy tomorrow and upload it.

Yes please!

 

[ronan]

Yes please!

Will do. But so long as the pulley on the motor is the same as the one on the spindle, you can use some approx and save yourself trouble.

 

[fizzy]

It is the motor pulley that needs replacing.

 

[ronan]

It is the motor pulley that needs replacing.

Oh ok, sorry i thought it was the one on the machine spindle, i'll take a picture of the made up pulley on mine anyway. I do remember the motor shaft keyway was knackered on mine, but it had a 3ph Hoover motor that couldn't be run off a cheap inverter so i swapped it out for a complete new motor. The seemed to be hard on their motors.

 

[Anguz]

And yours! Very nice.
So what is the secret? Parting tool down to the id and then topslide at an angle for the tapered sides?
Be very easy on a CNC

Thats how i did it... work out the off set between, then parted down...no cnc here, took a couple of evenings and a lot of swarf

 

[RichardM]

I made a 3 step for my first lathe ML2, aluminium rough out to step OD, parting tool to pulley int dia, then made a one sided chamfer tool to do one side, turned the tool over for the other side. This was before being able to angle the topslide which I would do now!

 

[Kram]

That is a lovely job!

Thanks! I enjoyed it. Recommend you make one as it was a nice job to do. Not often I get to do big deep cuts in large lumps of aluminium.

So what is the secret? Parting tool down to the id and then topslide at an angle for the tapered sides?
Be very easy on a CNC

Wheres the fun in that. VCGT1604 tool straight in and side to side to rough out then topslide to finish. The tool is 35 degrees and belts need roughly 36 depending on pitch diameter, thats what I remeber using.

 

[bricol]

Squeeze it back to shape, machine down the outside through those ribs, machine up a steel sleeve to go over the outside, tight fit and slightly tapered inside, press the sleeve over the outside with some araldite/locktite/whatever, worth a try maybe, easyish, what is the worst that could happen............ I think that is monkey metal so hard to weld with technoweld etc.

Having just read all this, that's pretty much my thoughts - although I might use ali for a straight bore sleeve, warm it up with a air gun and slide in on. Less weight spinning around on a motor shaft.

 

[fizzy]

Thanks! I enjoyed it. Recommend you make one as it was a nice job to do. Not often I get to do big deep cuts in large lumps of aluminium.

Wheres the fun in that. VCGT1604 tool straight in and side to side to rough out then topslide to finish. The tool is 35 degrees and belts need roughly 36 depending on pitch diameter, thats what I remeber using.

My only concern is the cost of a lump of ali that big - and turning it into a pile of shavings - loads of waste!