- Thread starter foue01978
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oilcooled :)
Pipe Welder, Mechanical engineer
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there good strong welds id say, a1 for diy, just practice on a tight arc and while weaving from side to side, keep an eye on the weldpool and knowing when to flik the rod away maintaining the arc and going back in a split second later, this should reduce drip and improve aestetics
arc welding my teachers please help me
Hello Mate,
That welding aint too bad at all and just needs a bit of refinement. I am a coded structural welder and would advise just holding it a tiny bit longer on the sides and as the former posts said you are weaving a tad too far but not life threatening or anything. I do this stuff day in day out and have never had a failure yet. You are doing really good mate. Just putting a bead up a flat plate is pretty difficult. Try doing a fillet or a butt and you might find it easiser. No body will ever ask you to just do a weld up a flat piece of plate. Any probs just PM me ok ?
Si
Hello Mate,
That welding aint too bad at all and just needs a bit of refinement. I am a coded structural welder and would advise just holding it a tiny bit longer on the sides and as the former posts said you are weaving a tad too far but not life threatening or anything. I do this stuff day in day out and have never had a failure yet. You are doing really good mate. Just putting a bead up a flat plate is pretty difficult. Try doing a fillet or a butt and you might find it easiser. No body will ever ask you to just do a weld up a flat piece of plate. Any probs just PM me ok ?
Si
toddy
Member
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- 730
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- Didcot, uk
as well a nother bit of advice
if you grind 2 lines up the plate about 5-8mm apart then weave over these.
and simon i would say this is a good experience at capping, as when i am welding on construction sites i fill the butt up and then grind it flat. and i do the same on pipes, since i am a coded pipe welder for constructions sites.
if you grind 2 lines up the plate about 5-8mm apart then weave over these.
and simon i would say this is a good experience at capping, as when i am welding on construction sites i fill the butt up and then grind it flat. and i do the same on pipes, since i am a coded pipe welder for constructions sites.
backpurge
Member
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- 2,397
Looking good, you seem to have got the basics it's just a bit of fine tuning needed. As has been said you may benefit from pausing at the edges a bit longer and moving a bit quicker across the face of the weld. The key to good positional welding is getting a consistent rhythm going.
The guy that taught me had me counting to three at each side of the weld to ensure a consistent build up and if I didn't he'd rap me over the knuckles with a 6swg welding rod, apprentices learnt quick in them days
The guy that taught me had me counting to three at each side of the weld to ensure a consistent build up and if I didn't he'd rap me over the knuckles with a 6swg welding rod, apprentices learnt quick in them days
How to learn from the mistakes always repeat the mistakes you please explain
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I don't think that is undercut Toddy, zooming in it looks like it might be just where the millscale's burnt away.
You're right about more juice though, looks a little light on power for the thickness of the steel.
Nice, consistent looking welds though.
You're right about more juice though, looks a little light on power for the thickness of the steel.
Nice, consistent looking welds though.
Weldingartisan
Aiming for retirement
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A few more amps and faster travel will tidy those fillets up nicely. You seem to have rod angle sorted. W/A.
backpurge
Member
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Coming along nicely,I take it from the photo you have a total of 6 runs on the fillet weld. You need to concentrate on your electrode position though
All the runs of weld needs to blend into one another to give a smooth appearance as has had been said above. More power and a slower travel speed may help.
Aim the tip of the electrode at the toe of the previous weld and watch to make sure the weld bead is covering half the width of the previous weld, also dont rush and drag the electrode, let it burn down at its own speed and control the deposition rate by altering your electrode angle. Some more photos showing each individual run would be a big help
All the runs of weld needs to blend into one another to give a smooth appearance as has had been said above. More power and a slower travel speed may help.
Aim the tip of the electrode at the toe of the previous weld and watch to make sure the weld bead is covering half the width of the previous weld, also dont rush and drag the electrode, let it burn down at its own speed and control the deposition rate by altering your electrode angle. Some more photos showing each individual run would be a big help
lol i got the exact same thing when welding and marking out plate.
if my welds weren't up to scratch i'd get a smack on the back of the head, if my marking out was 1mm out anywhere i'd get the flat of the ruller accross the back of my knuckles.
i learned real quick lol.
welds look good for a cap run, as has been said and reiterated pause slightly longer at the sides.
keep at it.
