Lathe Job for someone?

[Kram]

@Lewis_RX8 That does seem past the chuck limits, probably unsafe! But nowhere near the lathes limit. Is it a 7" swing?
There are a few ways around it for example, three holes drilled for the chuck jaws to grip on, or a peice of tube welded - how I did the back plates.

I do have a spare 5" chuck. Its not good enough for my use other than adapting to a welding fixture, but is taking up valuable space, it would allow you to do bigger things if you want it.
Worth looking out on ebay for a decent Pratt Burnerd as small ones go quite cheap and will improve the lathe a lot just from being able to grip parts better.

For tool post you'd put tool other side at some angle to minimise stickout. This is why I made a lefty ccmt tool

The problem isn't the machining. It's getting hold of a big enough lump of steel.

Can be bought on eBay but I think looking at about £35 - £45 for 120mm length of 85mm dia stock not sure if that's reasonable

This might be near @bR39Da
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185008258381
If the seller will allow it, Hermes collection is not expensive.

For bearing/pressing tools, ideally you want something tougher than mild steel.

 

[MattF]

I still havn't found out what a recommended lubricant is

The original was white lead, as I recall. Probably not high up there on the availability list nowadays, though.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

@Lewis_RX8 That does seem past the chuck limits, probably unsafe! But nowhere near the lathes limit. Is it a 7" swing?
There are a few ways around it for example, three holes drilled for the chuck jaws to grip on, or a peice of tube welded - how I did the back plates.
View attachment 306003

I do have a spare 5" chuck. Its not good enough for my use other than adapting to a welding fixture, but is taking up valuable space, it would allow you to do bigger things if you want it.
Worth looking out on ebay for a decent Pratt Burnerd as small ones go quite cheap and will improve the lathe a lot just from being able to grip parts better.

For tool post you'd put tool other side at some angle to minimise stickout. This is why I made a lefty ccmt tool
View attachment 306001




This might be near @bR39Da
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185008258381
If the seller will allow it, Hermes collection is not expensive.

For bearing/pressing tools, ideally you want something tougher than mild steel.

Yup 7" / 180mm max diameter over bed it says on the specs , I see how your tube and holes idea would work and defiantly gives me more options, Only got one chuck with two pairs of jaws on this lathe unfortunately never taken the chuck off. It says a "flange mounted " chuck on the specs so that's what I would need to fit onto and have been wanting to get a four jaw aswell that would give me even more capability.

I think I'm in a similar situation to you where I can only really fit a worktop lathe in the garage not enough room to have a floor standing old cast machine so making upgrades to this lathe is probably as big as ill get.

Yup would have to do something like that with the toolpost , maybe should get some insret tooling instead of these crapy brazed carbide , I suppose mild may be a bit soft however I've never turned stainless before nevermind that big but would be good to have a stronger material. Should't be too much force hopefully not like I'm stamping or punching anything just pushing bearings

That's right by me.

Is that a member I notice from here ?

Having a look at the mini lathe today with seems it would be a push to actually fit the stock in using this masking tape as a template for the biggest bit of stock
….

No faceplate with the lathe? An easy job to affix the workpiece to one. I don’t use my faceplate very often but it is there if/when I need it.

You do need to use your imagination when dealing with larger items. I’ve machined 150mm diameter x about 115mm lumps on my 5” lathe - even though the swing over the cross slide was insufficient for clearance. Think about where the cutter could be fitted to the tool post.

Fabricating from 3 pieces must be eminently doable? “not 100%” - I thought I described it fairly adequately?

The third piece was to allow a smaller (~50mm) piece of round while maintaining the (presumed) diameter of your press ram. The outside of the ends could be turned by holding the disc by an arbor and the inner recess/hole bored while holding the disc in the outside jaws of a chuck (preferably a 4 jaw independent chuck).

No faceplate unfortunately and never turned anything needing that so far, May be able to make one on the mill?

Thanks for the further explanation I understand it now, Previously I have drilled a hole in stock too large to fit in the jaws and put a bolt through then tightened down and held the bolt on the jaws to then cut the stock.

Cheers for all the help in here giving me a lot of ideas for not only this job but to use down the line all appreciated !

 

[Kram]

I dont think the seller is on here as that lump would have sold fast in the sale section Stainless is generally nice to turn tho I havent done much with it.

My spindle has a 52mm register and 80mm or so 3 bolt PCD which I think is common with some 7" lathes - most 10" have a 72mm register.
No harm in removing the chuck to measure but there should be a mark on the spindle so that it goes back in exactly the same place.

 

[Agroshield]

Very center to end of tool post fully out is just 44mm

You look as if you are measuring to the toolpost slot nearest the centre of the lathe. It is possible to put a tool in the slot nearest you (nearest the cross-slide handle).

The original was white lead, as I recall. Probably not high up there on the availability list nowadays, though.

Look up Darda grease or Darda lubricant. Mr Pete. could probably get you a splodge.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

I dont think the seller is on here as that lump would have sold fast in the sale section Stainless is generally nice to turn tho I havent done much with it.

My spindle has a 52mm register and 80mm or so 3 bolt PCD which I think is common with some 7" lathes - most 10" have a 72mm register.
No harm in removing the chuck to measure but there should be a mark on the spindle so that it goes back in exactly the same place.

True just noticed the welderpaul but maybe more than one welder called paul

changed Camlock type chucks at my old work so ill look out for more chucks of the mini lathe type ideally something bigger and maybe a 4 jaw which should let me get up to some more interesting projects

Working away at the knurl tool holder aswell

 

[Misterg]

Having a look at the mini lathe today with seems it would be a push to actually fit the stock in using this masking tape as a template for the biggest bit of stock

Looks like an 80mm chuck which is too small to hold that stock. A 100mm 4 jaw probably would (or drill the stock and run a length of studding through the spindle).

You can mount the tool on the outside of the toolpost (the side nearest the operator) to get you enough cross slide travel, however the toolpost then gets in the way of turning the OD, so you end up with the tool stuck way out from the toolpost, reaching back over the stock (using a boring bar works, too). It's possible, but not ideal.

I'm a fan of mini lathes, but one of the issues is lack of power at low RPM. However you arrange the cutting tool, you will be limited to *very* light cuts at that sort of diameter or the lathe will just stall - it will take an age in steel.

If you're not intent on doing it, just for the hell of it, I'd take up one of the other offers

 

[daedalusminos]

I just used a 3D printed plastic to go in the bearing and a 5mm thick custom 'washer' mounted on some M16 threaded rod to drive camshaft bearings out/in...

 

[38529]

Two bearing press tools made out of steel stock , not needing a mega high tolerance on the measurements just to be used in hydraulic press to push out bearings in rotors and push in new ones flush to the surface

View attachment 305841


I do have a lathe myself and would love to make them however I only have a mini lathe (at the moment ) so would not be able to do anything this size hence posting this here as I assume its a hobby type job don't know if the local CNC machine shops would be
interested lol. Heres the lathe size problem

View attachment 305842

And this is what the tool would be used for

View attachment 305843

I would be pressing out a few old ones with the smaller tool that goes straight through , then using the top hap shape one to push the new bearings in flush as I've seen some bearings overpushed and that creates a bad wear spot on them so thought best to make sure they cant be over inserted by adding the lip.

Let me know any thoughts , Wasnt sure where to go with this request dont know anyone personally with a big lathe so seen a few people on here with simillar jobs required and thought it was worth a post to see what would be possible

Thanks

Just out of curiosity did you ever get this done, Ive made bigger things on a lathe not much bigger than that....just go slow and dont take heavy cuts !!

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Just out of curiosity did you ever get this done, Ive made bigger things on a lathe not much bigger than that....just go slow and dont take heavy cuts !!

Wussed out and got @munkel to make them for me had no practical way of fitting it on mine I don't think

 

[mechman]

they are handy for facing the end of a bar as you can get the tool almost to the centre. you need to lubricate the centre though, I normally use lithium grease for car wheel bearings. I still havn't found out what a recommended lubricant is

in this example Im turning a M6 threaded bar down to 4mm o/d.

In the day it used to be tallow.

 

[Munkul]

Wussed out and got @munkel to make them for me had no practical way of fitting it on mine I don't think

Did you get them yet mate?

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Not yet , hopefully today will let you know

 

[daleyd]

In the day it used to be tallow.

That’s what I used when using dead centres on my apprenticeship.