I’m a buffoon

[mtt.tr]

Oh... For the record I am so anti "power probe" it is unreal.

Thought I was alone on that one.


We should start a cult we agree far to much

 

[pedrobedro]

A new box will cost you £90. Clipping the old one and lifting the legs is favourite, I did similar with the Citroen BSI and it was simple enough. I used a solder sucker though.

 

[sako243]

@KimB if you want to bung it in the post to me I can swap that chip over easily enough for you. I've got a mate near you who might be able to test it for you.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I can do it if required, I have the kit.

 

[premmington]

Thought I was alone on that one.


We should start a cult we agree far to much

I got a power probe (cheap Sealey thing) it is connected to a 12v battery on the bench - I use it for - testing bulbs - wiper motors in both polarities - window motors - power actuators. You know 12v things to see if they work.

I don't go blindly introducing unmetered DC currents into 5volt control and logic circuits for fun! (This is not aimed at the OP at all.)


I do not see a power probe to be much of diagnostic tool at all. The have there uses. But they are limited.

 

[KimB]

Thanks everyone for the help and the offers. It’s very kind of you all, I’ll probably get the part and if okay send to one of you to do it, so I don’t make it worse .

I got a power probe (cheap Sealey thing) it is connected to a 12v battery on the bench - I use it for - testing bulbs - wiper motors in both polarities - window motors - power actuators. You know 12v things to see if they work.

I don't go blindly introducing unmetered DC currents into 5volt control and logic circuits for fun! (This is not aimed at the OP at all.)


I do not see a power probe to be much of diagnostic tool at all. The have there uses. But they are limited.

Reference to this. I had wiring diagrams of the vehicle, I was powering it up to see if it was working externally to the vehicle without doing what has been happening. As I was doing that I slipped and knocked into one of the other prongs at the same time I was powering the board up. The pop goes the 10AS.

While we’re all talking about electrics, does anyone know what the correct name for these connectors are. I’ll order some at the same time as the chip. I have a feeling the earth wire is broken internally.

 

[sako243]

I’ll probably get the part and if okay send to one of you to do it, so I don’t make it worse .

Just bear in mind some of us have trade discounts and don't have to pay extortionate shipping costs

 

[KimB]

Just bear in mind some of us have trade discounts and don't have to pay extortionate shipping costs

I’ll message you haha. Thanks again all .

 

[dobbslc]

This is the chap from Plymouth? Yes?

To be honest I don't know but I've heard him mentioned here a few times and other places too.
@KimB if you get the chip replaced will you still have to find the actual fault or do you think it was the ECU itself?

 

[KimB]

To be honest I don't know but I've heard him mentioned here a few times and other places too.
@KimB if you get the chip replaced will you still have to find the actual fault or do you think it was the ECU itself?

I will still have to find the fault. I will strip the dash out and I need to remove a load of tape off the wires to see if I can source the fault.

 

[Moose McAlpine]

I do not see a power probe to be much of diagnostic tool at all. The have there uses. But they are limited.

More of a component tester than a diagnostic tool, not too many people seem to realise that. I have one and use it quite frequently, good for upfitting, good for quick and dirty roadside diag. Must be used with caution and a good understanding of electrics.

(That's not a dig at you, Kim, that's a dig at mechanics who have zero understanding of electrics. I've worked with many.)

A LoadPro is an excellent, safe, diagnostic tool. Used on a meter you can volt drop circuits and quickly find issues. Comes with a great book on automotive electrics too.

While we’re all talking about electrics, does anyone know what the correct name for these connectors are. I’ll order some at the same time as the chip. I have a feeling the earth wire is broken internally.
View attachment 303497

Send a pic of the whole connector body.

Looks like it's this type?

LAND ROVER DEFENDER TD4 2007-2016 5 WAY SWITCH CONNECTOR GREEN. PART- DA1405 | eBay

LAND ROVER DEFENDER TD4 2007-2016. We are happy to help you. 5 WAY SWITCH CONNECTOR GREEN. Parts colour may very due to manufacture production. PICTURES AND PART NUMBERS ARE FOR REFERENCE ONLY AND DO NOT IMPLY THE MANUFACTURER.

www.ebay.co.uk

I've got the proper crimpers if you need to borrow.

 

[KimB]

More of a component tester than a diagnostic tool, not too many people seem to realise that. I have one and use it quite frequently, good for upfitting, good for quick and dirty roadside diag. Must be used with caution and a good understanding of electrics.

(That's not a dig at you, Kim, that's a dig at mechanics who have zero understanding of electrics. I've worked with many.)

A LoadPro is an excellent, safe, diagnostic tool. Used on a meter you can volt drop circuits and quickly find issues. Comes with a great book on automotive electrics too.



Send a pic of the whole connector body.

This is one of them and this is the other one.

 

[Moose McAlpine]

This is one of them and this is the other one.

You beat me to it.

 

[Morrisman]

My luck these last couple weeks has been bad! Today I made it worse!

So my defender broke down yesterday which was fun. The immobiliser packed up and I couldn’t lock or unlock on the fob. I was at the shop when this happened.

Annoyingly the fob is needed to turn the immobiliser off, but because the 10AS module (immobiliser/alarm module) wasn’t working it was immobilesed and I was stuck unable to start it. Walked home and got my fob coding tool, then I took some electrical tools and decided to have a wiggle of the wires near the 10AS module. As soon as I did the interior light came on (this helps indicate if it’s working), I then coded the fob back to the car and it started for me to drive home.

Fast forward to today, I’ve been trying to establish where the broken wire is or if the 10AS module is faulty. Spent ages wiggling wires and testing them with my DMM, then I thought I’d try using my probe and powering the 10AS separately to see if I could work out If that was a problem. Being clumsy, I slipped with the probe, small spark and then smoke from the 10AS

In this picture you can see it’s the chip to the left of the two relays. It’s got 16 soldered joints.
View attachment 303468

View attachment 303469

The chip itself I think is this one which is also on the board.

View attachment 303470

Can this chip just be replaced? I found them online for very little but I’m concerned I’ll make it worse with my clumsiness.

Are there any companies that may do that without feeling stripped of my dignity haha.

Thanks.

All the more reason I want to buy a totally mechanical injection diseasel, to last me through the governments current ‘save the planet’ fad.

 

[addjunkie]

All the more reason I want to buy a totally mechanical injection diseasel, to last me through the governments current ‘save the planet’ fad.

Mmmm been thinking similar thoughts.........I hate electronic jiggery pokery.

 

[Domdom]

Oh... For the record I am so anti "power probe" it is unreal.

Agreed, that’s what oscilloscopes and bench power supplies are for.

@KimB That is a simple repair as long as you have some fine side cutters to snip the legs, and a good low voltage soldering iron with earthed tip, aka Weller TCP etc. If you have these it’s a 20 minute job but definitely don’t use a mains soldering iron. I’m also not a lover of desoldering braid; to someone who hasn’t used it the risk of overheating the board and lifting a track are very real. A solder sucker is much better.

You have a few offers of help, it would be wise to take one up if you’re not confident or don’t have the right tools. I would also offer but am away with work at the mo.

Good luck!

 

[sako243]

While we’re all talking about electrics, does anyone know what the correct name for these connectors are. I’ll order some at the same time as the chip. I have a feeling the earth wire is broken internally.

If you look on your eBay listing the manufacturer is Tyco / AMP and the connector series is Multilok 040 and Multilok 070 depending on which pin you need. They're readily available from people like RS etc. (as is the other Darlington Pair chip and one of the suppliers I have a trade discount with).

 

[KimB]

If you look on your eBay listing the manufacturer is Tyco / AMP and the connector series is Multilok 040 and Multilok 070 depending on which pin you need. They're readily available from people like RS etc. (as is the other Darlington Pair chip and one of the suppliers I have a trade discount with).

Yeah I did spot that last night I’ll send you a WhatsApp shortly

 

[Red'n'Black]

Lots of good advice so far, the only thing I would add is if you're going to have a go at doing it yourself, practice taking some parts off a scrap PCB first. Once you can do that without lifting tracks off the board, the real thing will be a doddle.

Where can you get some scrap PCBs, I hear you say? I reckon half the regulars on here probably have a few going spare