Thanks given a clean out turns out is only not working on power number 5 but works on the rest. Very oddThermo switch acting up? They can be by passed.
It needs a clean out anyway and you may find the fault when doing it.
Thanks On power 5 from those things you listed only gas works, don't get arc or wire feed,When you press the torch trigger, as well as wire feed you should also have the gas valve opening and get an arc at the tip of the wire ( even if more wire does not feed out ). Do all three of these functions fail when you are on power setting 5 ?
For further troubleshooting, turn the gas off, slacken the wirefeed pressure roller, and measure the DC voltage from the tip of the MIG torch to the clamp on the work return cable. It should start at about 15v on power number 1, and rise to maybe 30 volts at the maximum power setting. Perhaps it's dropping to zero at setting 5 ?
Thanks for that and I've learnt the hard waY on those multi section switches they just go everywhere, I've cleaned it and still doesn't work so I'm going to have to buy a switch just need to find the right oneThanks for the additional information. On some welders the wirefeed motor gets power from an auxiliary power supply. This is typically a medium-sized transformer, a rectifier, and smoothing capacitors, that delivers 24 volts DC at 2 or 3 Amps. On others, power for the motor is tapped-off from the main welding output. It sounds like the Parweld is one of those, and in position 5 of the welding power switch there is no output. This can be confirmed with a voltmeter, as suggested in post #4.
I think the machine has 8 power settings. Each one will be a tapping on the primary winding of the main transformer. The lowest power setting will connect to the largest number of turns of wire, with each higher tapping connecting to fewer turns. Assuming the machine works correctly at positions 1 to 4 and 6 to 8, the fault is probably due to a bad contact at position 5 of the 8-way rotary switch.
Initially you could power off and unplug the welder, then remove the covers and check that all the connections at the rotary switch are secure. The wires may be fastened with screw terminals or push-on tags. If all looks OK, then you need a new switch. When replacing it, ensure that all the wires are clearly labelled with secure labels. Please note that attempts to open and clean or repair these multi-segment switches normally end in a nightmare of self-destruction.