That takes the coolant from the pump
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doubleboost
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Mould to cast 5 mill lead to go through a bullet die
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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From my apprenticeship tin bashing days over 50 yrs ago ..... IIRC 28 on the stamp usually means a 28 ounce head of copper , On that particular Tinmans 28 oz iron all edges on the pointy bit should be clean sharp edges & flat faces so you can easily sweat solder along seams or tin plate patches turning the iron as needed . Do you ever get any of the old Tinman's axe head irons for seam soldering ?
Kram
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After recutting the Er40 yesterday and compound being set up, I started on the Chinese ER32, taper was undersized so perfect for recutting. A lot of swearing at my compound handle which is a pain to use and took blood.
Im not sure what is wrong but the result is terrible. The Er32 shaft measures 1 div runout (0.002mm), so the ER40 result is good. The newely cut ER32 taper measures 0.002mm, yet when I mount a shaft in it (using new HSS blanks, as they'll be ground) it is 0.2mm out! I tried several peices of HSS, different sizes/collets/nuts
Another go tomorrow.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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The on line catalog showed two types of monument brand 28oz heads.
One with nice crisp square corners to joint work.
The other with different radius corners for doing soldered joints on curves.
I have many a squared edge bit come through and a few radius heads.
My farther in law, a time served sheet metal worker has about 50 copper soldering irons, 2 paraffin heating furnaces and 2 copper dish blocks.
I am still looking through the catalog of tools the sales men gave out in the 1960's.
One even had his own headed order pages in.
I have recently done a small tinsman Axe head.
today I have been vac forming some styrene sheet to make a hull for a lifeboat of a model boat I'm making, but I thought I'd try and vac form it rather than making it from solid to save weight......and the lifeboat is only 40mm long 
and I used 1,00mm thick styrene.
after watching a couple of videos in youtube it seems to be a very simple process and it was.
the first thing to do was make vaccum box to put the item on that you want to copy and it needs to be able to connect to a vacuum cleaner. the bottom of mine was made from offcuts of mdf and plywood. the top was made from steel and stuck in place with car body filler
I painted the top black to stop it rusting for future use and on it is the aluminium former for the lifeboat that I want to copy. the former is a couple of mm taller than the finished item.
all ready to go now, a frame was cut from mdf and the styrene sheet was held to it with paper/bulldog clips. I held the frame at the corner. the vacuum cleaner was switched on and the styrene was heated up with a hot air paint stripper at a temperature that I would normally use for shrinking heatshrink so not too hot and when the styene starts to sag its hot enough do the vac forming.
and quickly lower it over the vacuum box and there to have it.
on the left is the aluminium former, on the middle is a lifeboat after vac forming, and on the right is the finished hull.
I was orginally going to heat the styrene in an oven, but with a variable temperature heat gun and seeing the sheet sagging its easy enough to do. think it should work for other thermoplastics too.
and I used 1,00mm thick styrene.after watching a couple of videos in youtube it seems to be a very simple process and it was.
the first thing to do was make vaccum box to put the item on that you want to copy and it needs to be able to connect to a vacuum cleaner. the bottom of mine was made from offcuts of mdf and plywood. the top was made from steel and stuck in place with car body filler
I painted the top black to stop it rusting for future use and on it is the aluminium former for the lifeboat that I want to copy. the former is a couple of mm taller than the finished item.
all ready to go now, a frame was cut from mdf and the styrene sheet was held to it with paper/bulldog clips. I held the frame at the corner. the vacuum cleaner was switched on and the styrene was heated up with a hot air paint stripper at a temperature that I would normally use for shrinking heatshrink so not too hot and when the styene starts to sag its hot enough do the vac forming.
and quickly lower it over the vacuum box and there to have it.
on the left is the aluminium former, on the middle is a lifeboat after vac forming, and on the right is the finished hull.
I was orginally going to heat the styrene in an oven, but with a variable temperature heat gun and seeing the sheet sagging its easy enough to do. think it should work for other thermoplastics too.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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I had a play with a new 50mm face cutter. Made some chips and some black bar square 
As is tradition, a short video to send you to sleep!
As is tradition, a short video to send you to sleep!
Made serious inroads on my home-made table saw this weekend. After pricing up a new one I came across lots of "how to make a table saw from a circular saw" videos on YouTube and as I had a circular saw sat doing nothing and plenty of 3/4" board, I gave it a go:
Still have to finish the rip fence, make a mitre fence, rout 2 mitre slots in the table, fit an on/off switch and a port for dust extraction, possibly cut 2 holes in the front for storage, then give it all a good sanding and put some wax on the table, but I'm very pleased with it so far.
Spent some time squaring the blade to the front of the table before bolting the saw tight then ripped an old piece of board through it using a clamped on temporary fence squared up by eye, and over 24" the width was 4 thou' out so I'm happy enough with that
.
Still have to finish the rip fence, make a mitre fence, rout 2 mitre slots in the table, fit an on/off switch and a port for dust extraction, possibly cut 2 holes in the front for storage, then give it all a good sanding and put some wax on the table, but I'm very pleased with it so far.
Spent some time squaring the blade to the front of the table before bolting the saw tight then ripped an old piece of board through it using a clamped on temporary fence squared up by eye, and over 24" the width was 4 thou' out so I'm happy enough with that
.
Dr.Al
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Made serious inroads on my home-made table saw this weekend. After pricing up a new one I came across lots of "how to make a table saw from a circular saw" videos on YouTube and as I had a circular saw sat doing nothing and plenty of 3/4" board, I gave it a go:
View attachment 290577
View attachment 290580
Still have to finish the rip fence, make a mitre fence, rout 2 mitre slots in the table, fit an on/off switch and a port for dust extraction, possibly cut 2 holes in the front for storage, then give it all a good sanding and put some wax on the table, but I'm very pleased with it so far.
Spent some time squaring the blade to the front of the table before bolting the saw tight then ripped an old piece of board through it using a clamped on temporary fence squared up by eye, and over 24" the width was 4 thou' out so I'm happy enough with that
Looks nice! Are you going to add some sort of riving knife/splitter?
James1979
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Been after one of those hammer moulds for years. Did you buy that new John?
Red'n'Black
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Some hooks, made from 10mm 316 stainless.
Wasn't getting very far with a propane torch so bought some MAPP gas. Much better!
Even heated up cherry red it needed some serious leaning on.
Cleaned up OK.
Test fit. Think they'll do the job. Sod's law, that instantly brought on the rain...
I've given up buying products online that claim to be stainless, they seem to go rusty as soon as it gets a bit damp.
Wasn't getting very far with a propane torch so bought some MAPP gas. Much better!
Even heated up cherry red it needed some serious leaning on.
Cleaned up OK.
Test fit. Think they'll do the job. Sod's law, that instantly brought on the rain...
I've given up buying products online that claim to be stainless, they seem to go rusty as soon as it gets a bit damp.
My Old Landy
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They look really substantial and better than any I have seen for that application
Red'n'Black
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Yes a running joke in our house is that I tend to over-engineer things. But build one thing that collapses with weight on it and I'd never hear the end of itThey look really substantial and better than any I have seen for that application
MattF
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But build one thing that collapses with weight on it and I'd never hear the end of it
It's be hoped you've never phrased it like that to your other half, if you value your nads.
doubleboost
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Yes Bought it in America
