Spraying 2K acrylic

[BA3]

Well quite frankly, I think you're a complete idiot, ANYTHING containing isocyanate is lethal, and anyone telling you otherwise is either extrememly thick, or hasn't got a brain.

You must be mad, I wish you good luck, coz mate you're gonna need it

Really, it beggars belief

Yes well...where did i mention that isocyanate is´nt lethal?
So from your opinion it would seem that everyone who are professional sprayers in the school that i know they use those 3M mask´s are complete idiots?...im not saying that spraying stuff containing isocyanates wihout an airfed mask over a long period of time is safe, but i would guess that they know what they are doing.

I guess that it´s all up to everyone´s own opinion about this subject and of course im not saying that everyone should use a respirator for stuff that includes isocyanates, im just saying that for one car, i dont see the point of getting that airfed system, especially if the professional guys use the 3M mask for every paint...and like i sayd before, right now i could´nt afford the system anyway.

 

[the snooper]

if anyone is interested there is a pdf published by norwich union and it does state carbon filters offer some protection but it seems that it is only with and effective extraction system here is the pdf

 

[brightspark]

if anyone is interested there is a pdf published by norwich union and it does state carbon filters offer some protection but it seems that it is only with and effective extraction system here is the pdf

it says if u have contact u can use a carbon filter and particulate resperator for medium duration WHICH IS WHAT I DO AND HAVE THE SUITABLE FILTER which comes from the cyanide works where they produce the stuff i hope that clears things up

 

[Wozzaaah]

If you don't have a decent answer to this thread then why bother to post?
Good answers are getting lost between petty bickering and it's helping no-one, least of all the OP!

Thread tidied!

 

[danelectro]

Yes well...where did i mention that isocyanate is´nt lethal?
So from your opinion it would seem that everyone who are professional sprayers in the school that i know they use those 3M mask´s are complete idiots?...im not saying that spraying stuff containing isocyanates wihout an airfed mask over a long period of time is safe, but i would guess that they know what they are doing.

I guess that it´s all up to everyone´s own opinion about this subject and of course im not saying that everyone should use a respirator for stuff that includes isocyanates, im just saying that for one car, i dont see the point of getting that airfed system, especially if the professional guys use the 3M mask for every paint...and like i sayd before, right now i could´nt afford the system anyway.

And Like I said, it's your choice but I think you're being very foolish in Not having the correct equipment.
Apart from which it's not just about each persons opinion, there are strict guidelines, based on fact.
Of course it's up to you, I have no way of forcing you to wear a mask, but having suffered the effects (along with other on this forum) of using isocyanates, then I strongly advise against spraying it without the proper epuipment. i.e. AIR FED MASK AND FULL OVERALLS

Here is my understanding of Isocyanates:
These chemicals are invisible, heavier than air toxins which even after the spray dust has cleared remain at floor level for a relatively long period of time.
They can attack the respiratory system and can be either inhaled or absorbed through the skin.
In using these chemicals, the operator should ensure good extraction in the working area via a suitable system, preferably up into the air which allows the chemicals to disipate before they fall to ground level.
The operator should wear full body protection in the form of tyvek coveralls, rubber gloves (or similar) and an airfed mask (which must be run from a compressor that has water/oil filtration) the mask should have in it's line a carbon filter to remove smells and nasties from the compressor. Compressor should be totally isolated from the working area.
Care should also be taken when mixing the paints, because the isocyanates are chemicals which are as good as a gas.

I'm sure in a modern spraybooth, with excellent compliant extraction, the use of a standard carbon filtered face mask, is probably acceptable, due to the high air replacement.

Spraying at home is a totally different ball game. and things to be careful of are:
Poor extraction and filtration
Compressor being too close to the spraying area and extraction exhaust.
Lack of suitable breathing apparatus

One has to also be careful that spraying in an attached garage can cause huge implications (the nasty stuff travels well and lingers - in your lounge, kitchen - everywhere)
also think of your neighbours, and pets.

And finally, I am not trying to tell anyone how/what they should do. I'm purely concerned for them, as I know what the stuff can do to you.

 

[shoreangler]

I may as well get in on this topic first off as most of you will know I had the big scare with this stuff and i'm now suffering because of my own stupidity of not checking and understanding the effects that it can cause,
I thought that after having been caught out with it that it would be a while before any real effects would take place but how wrong was I.
I now have shortness of breath constantly coughing all the time and for some reason I keep getting the flu which as a rule I never get so now I am paying the price for my Ignorance.
SO PLEASE BE SAFE AND TAKE GREAT CARE

 

[BA3]

Thought i`d say something by now...it`s been nearly a month since i sprayed the engine bay..altough i did`nt use the 2K acrylic, i used alkyd (sythetic) enamel with the hardener and got quite acceptable results.
Primer:

And paint:

The problem was with getting the atomisation right..the main thing was, that i thinned the paint a lot more then the specs said, but still i did`nt get the right consistency. Like i understand it should be like milk or so, but as much of thinners i added to the mix, it just would`nt reach that. So i guess i sprayed with a little bit thick paint, but im not sure..maby i just did`nt get the gun settings right because some parts ended up glossyer then others.

Oh, and i used the 3M mask if anyone asks.

 

[eil]

I didn't know you had to use hardener with synthetic enamel, thought you only mixed it with quick or a slower thinners and away you go.

 

[BA3]

I didn't know you had to use hardener with synthetic enamel, thought you only mixed it with quick or a slower thinners and away you go.

I`ve read about this before on this forum and here where i live (Estonia), there`s no such thing as a slow or quick thinner..there`s just thinners for different paint types.
The specs say that a hardener is mixed with this paint so it would dry faster..so i used it because of that. I guess it did dry faster but i would`nt know, i left before it was dry.

 

[danelectro]

BA3, that's a very nice job you done there. good shine, and nice detail. Thumbs up from here!!!

 

[Chipper]

Looks very good!

Heard of an accellerator for synth, not had a go with it though.

 

[BA3]

Got a question about spraying the 2K acrylic now. Im going to spray some bits of the car that were originally black but have rusted, faded etc.
The thing i wanna know is when im done with filling a few dents on the bare metal and sanding it down and keying the metal, can i just spray the primer and wait until it flashes off and then spray the paint right on the tacky primer or should i let the primer dry, then key it and then paint it?

Btw, what grit sandpaper should i use for keying the bare metal before primer? Or is it okay just to use a scotch pad?

 

[jaykay]

let the primer dry fully,cos there will be bit you'll want to work on.
bare metal 180. a scotch pad will just polish the metal too much.

 

[BA3]

let the primer dry fully,cos there will be bit you'll want to work on.
bare metal 180. a scotch pad will just polish the metal too much.

The thing is that the bits are from the engine bay and dont really need to get a perfectly flat finish on them so i would not do anymore filling after the pieces are primed anyway. Just wanted to know if it´s possible to spray the paint straight on to tacky primer and it not reacting in any way or smth. The paint and primer are from the same manufacturer.

 

[madkayaker]

if the paints are from the same manufacturer there technical help line should be able to tell you definitely

 

[jaykay]

your bending the rules,but go for it

 

[BA3]

Cant get any information on this paint because there´s nothing on the net regarding this paint. And jaykay if you mean bending the rules by the chance that the wet-on-wet technique might react in some way and mess up the paintjob then i´d rather let the primer dry and key it prior to spraying the paint.
Just thought i´d ask because if there´s no difference in spraying it wet-on-wet or having the primer dry before the paint then it would have saved me time, but apparently there is a difference...

 

[jaykay]

cant see why you would want to go wet on wet that way. primer dries pretty quick.

 

[BA3]

cant see why you would want to go wet on wet that way. primer dries pretty quick.

The only reason i wanted to go wet-on-wet is that it would have saved me the time waiting for the primer to dry, then keying it and cleaning it prior to painting...but if you say there´s a chance that it could go wrong then i´d rather go with the longer way.

 

[keithski122]

I did wet on wet with some vw beetle tin ware using 2 pack primer and 2 pack satin paint.It worked fine, with no reactions or anything.No need to flat the primer and it laid on well.