Maypole MP520

[bugs]

Hiya All,

Mate of mine has just given me a MP520 MIG welder as he's upgraded, It doesn't have any welding wire in it and he seemed a little vague on which one it used, he thought it was 0.9mm. also which type of wire to use Iv had a look around and there are loads out there copper coated, steel coated, and there is the size of the spools (i`m not sure if this matters or not)

The primary reason I wanted the welder was to deal with a problem iv got with my Virago 750 motorbike iv managed to snap a bolt in the head of the engine, the bit left is 4mm so its very small. Many of my friends have suggested welding a nut on the end of the broken bolt and the heat should release it, however other friends have said they would NEVER attempt anything like this especially with having a aluminum head. Could anyone give me a definitive answer as to whether I can do this and if it would work?

Iv attached a pic below to give people an idea of space and where it is. Apologies for the dumb ass questions iv only limited welding experience.

Thanx

 

[pedrobedro]

You'll be fine as long as you don't arc onto the aluminium and can see what you are doing. 0.9 is probably gasless wire. What size is the stud left in there ? If there is enough to get hold of with the Moles you could try warming the lug with a blowlamp then gripping it if you don't fancy the weld.

 

[bugs]

a 4mm socket is a snug fit on it, and theres probably about 3 or 4 mm showing, I can grip it at the moment but at the minute moles are just spinning over it, no matter how tight I make them.

 

[flatmajor]

Hiya All,

Mate of mine has just given me a MP520 MIG welder as he's upgraded, It doesn't have any welding wire in it and he seemed a little vague on which one it used, he thought it was 0.9mm. also which type of wire to use Iv had a look around and there are loads out there copper coated, steel coated, and there is the size of the spools (i`m not sure if this matters or not)

The primary reason I wanted the welder was to deal with a problem iv got with my Virago 750 motorbike iv managed to snap a bolt in the head of the engine, the bit left is 4mm so its very small. Many of my friends have suggested welding a nut on the end of the broken bolt and the heat should release it, however other friends have said they would NEVER attempt anything like this especially with having a aluminum head. Could anyone give me a definitive answer as to whether I can do this and if it would work?

Iv attached a pic below to give people an idea of space and where it is. Apologies for the dumb ass questions iv only limited welding experience.

Thanx

try using a stud/bolt extractor. you can get a set cheaply from you nearest m otor factor. ive done this on my disco and it done the trick. cheers

 

[Zagan]

Hiya All,

Mate of mine has just given me a MP520 MIG welder as he's upgraded, It doesn't have any welding wire in it and he seemed a little vague on which one it used, he thought it was 0.9mm. also which type of wire to use Iv had a look around and there are loads out there copper coated, steel coated, and there is the size of the spools (i`m not sure if this matters or not)

it's very easy to tell what size wire you need.

Take a look at the side of the feed wheel it'll have a number on it that's the size of the groove on the other side of the wheel.

Generally there's 2 grooves on 1 wheel of 2 sizes like .8mm and 1mm for example.

The primary reason I wanted the welder was to deal with a problem iv got with my Virago 750 motorbike iv managed to snap a bolt in the head of the engine, the bit left is 4mm so its very small. Many of my friends have suggested welding a nut on the end of the broke.

Thanx

Don't weld it it'll wrap the block which could lead to leaks or other problems like causing extra pressure on a sleeve for example.

Use bolt extrators, you can drill a hole in the bolt then use a drill to remove the bolt it's better to remove the bolt without heat, use WD40 etc to help it to come out as well.

 

[Weldingartisan]

Welding a nut on will be fine, I do loads of them - mostly broken studs within aluminium heads. The very short heat cycle will not warp the head and the heat usually frees the stud. W/A

 

[gerry1]

Stud removal

Weldingartisan is right. I have removed loads of bolts/studs from bikes and cars using a mig to plug weld a nut in place. Get plenty of practise before trying it or get a local welder to do it for you. WHAT EVER YOU DO, REMOVE THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS OR YOU WILL FRY THE VIRAGO'S ELECTRONICS. Good Luck. Gerry

 

[Bsmith]

Weldingartisan is right. I have removed loads of bolts/studs from bikes and cars using a mig to plug weld a nut in place. Get plenty of practise before trying it or get a local welder to do it for you. WHAT EVER YOU DO, REMOVE THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS OR YOU WILL FRY THE VIRAGO'S ELECTRONICS. Good Luck. Gerry

Also agree with this method. Sometimes its easier to weld a thick washer on the broken stud end first and then a nut on to the washer. Leave the stud/blot to cool before applying pressure to remove, as it will be expanded in the hole due to heat from welding.

 

[Dave Richards]

dont bother with stud extractor load of rubbish, what you plan to do is correct way of removing the stud we have done hundreds, what you should use though is mma with a chromium vanadium rod (eutectic 680 s) superb. Reason for using these is down to carbon content of stud.