Setting out heights for foundation brick levels?

[malcolm]

I've got the foundations in for the garden wall. It's a 20m run with 2 steps. Already figured out I can't use a string level for heights as it droops half an inch in the middle and doesn't leave room for bricks.

I can prop up the string line on a brick with spacers using the level every 3m. That'll get me so far. But I've got piers and at some point they will catch my string line and move it sideways.

What do you normally do? Tempted to stick a few bricks in at the right height along the way before putting the piers in. I've got a brick gauge worked out so it should be possible to figure out where the end of the wall should be. Also tempted to put them in using a very weak mix so I can remove the bricks and clean them up and use them again.

 

[awemawson]

Last time I did it I cheated and set up my spinning laser level and set the bricks to that. Came out very nicely !

(I have great difficulty judging levels and setting bricks to strings as I only have two dimensional vision - no depth perception)

 

[James1979]

Water level and setting out pegs may be an option?

 

[mtt.tr]

Water level works

Laser level and staff is easier


Work out the brick run lay them out dry.

Build the ends to the laser fill the middle to a string. Use a twigs to deal with droop

 

[mike os]

make yourself a course gauge stick... if you are matching to existing use that ... put the bottom of the stick on top of a brick and mark the top of every course.

if its all new the gauge is brick height plus 10mm per course ... so for a 63mm brick its 73mm..

To start I would suggest you lay 1 course level and straight as you can, it rarely goes 100% , this gives you an overall level to start off. If its well out use the second course to get it right.

Once you have that you can build up a corner and an end, staggered out... using your gauge stick. next day you can use a very tight string line, or if you are confident build a stack in the middle using the gauge stick then use that to help support the line mid span (pay attention to the perpendicular bond !!)

dont use a weak mix, it will end up needing redoing in no time

 

[Blue Chips]

Besides the abovementioned water-tube level approach, if you don't want to spend the money for a rotating laser level, for about £30 to £50 there are a number of non-rotating laser levels that should serve you well for a project like this. Bosch make some in that price range. I have a rotating laser level and love it, but 90% of the time, a cheaper non-rotating model would do the job. Handy for lots of projects.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

For a garden wall I'd just level along as I go for the first course and pillars off the gauge as best I can then set temp bricks spaced along the run for string line set to the gauge.

 

[malcolm]

I've got the tops of the stakes used for the concrete sticking out a tiny bit and they were done with a long bit of wood with spirit level in the middle turned around each measure.

Can't use a long bit of wood to set out bricks though. Setting out temporary bricks to set a string level from would be an idea. I've got brick heights set up using bricks and bits of wood and I know something will fall off. Second course is easy.

Laser level sounds like an idea.

 

[gordon stephenson]

Laser level or water level.

 

[malcolm]

I'll get a laser level in the morning. I think it will make life easier. I've got a brick gauge stick to figure out where the bricks should go, but I'm building from an existing wall and it doesn't really matter where the far corner is so I don't want to set up that corner until I get closer and make sure my gauge is good.

I guess for now level up some temporary bricks along the way and string from them.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I'll get a laser level in the morning. I think it will make life easier. I've got a brick gauge stick to figure out where the bricks should go, but I'm building from an existing wall and it doesn't really matter where the far corner is so I don't want to set up that corner until I get closer and make sure my gauge is good.

I guess for now level up some temporary bricks along the way and string from them.

Can't say I've even had much luck with cross line lasers outside
Need a detector with it or its more hassle than it's worth

 

[Edward Teach]

Start at the lowest end,
Work out your levels,
Hammer a batten in the ground, (the top of your concrete footings), level from one batten to the next with a 3m straight edge and spirit level, all around your footings.
Fill with concrete to the top of the battens, your footings are now level.
Do your measurements,
Mark your corners,
Fit your line posts,
Build your wall.

 

[premmington]

Water level...

Nothing much has changed since Egyptian times.

 

[Edward Teach]

Water level...

Nothing much has changed since Egyptian times.

I've seen all The Bricklayers using them

 

[dobbslc]

Laser level sounds like an idea.

It'll come in handy for all sorts of other things like floor laying, kitchen fitting etc so well worth buying one.
For my garden wall I just used a long spirit level as I also found the string lime was sagging in the middle.
When doing the piers be VERY careful to get them vertical right from the off or they can easily get out of hand! Keep the thickness of the morter to 10mm, if you're using old reclaimed bricks it's much harder to keep a straight run going so I just took an average over a few bricks rather than getting too worried about each one but keep a really close eye on the vertical face or it's easy to build a leaning tower of Pisa....
I bought one of these for doing the pointing and it made life much easier!
Made by Cox in the UK! And it's got a really high quality feel to it.

 

[gaz1]

are you setting up from the far end brick work to the new corner ?

 

[mtt.tr]

It'll come in handy for all sorts of other things like floor laying, kitchen fitting etc so well worth buying one.
For my garden wall I just used a long spirit level as I also found the string lime was sagging in the middle.
When doing the piers be VERY careful to get them vertical right from the off or they can easily get out of hand! Keep the thickness of the morter to 10mm, if you're using old reclaimed bricks it's much harder to keep a straight run going so I just took an average over a few bricks rather than getting too worried about each one but keep a really close eye on the vertical face or it's easy to build a leaning tower of Pisa....
I bought one of these for doing the pointing and it made life much easier!
View attachment 285096Made by Cox in the UK! And it's got a really high quality feel to it.

Setting out is so crucial really the art pf bricklaying is setting out

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Setting out is so crucial really the art pf bricklaying is setting out

Same with tiling
My house irritates the crap out of me. The tiling in all but the bathroom is dire.

(I did the bathroom.)

 

[Agroshield]

Can't say I've even had much luck with cross line lasers outside

... in daylight, yes. If it is his own project, an option might be to partake of a wafer thin mint at the appropriate time and then do the work.

 

[gaz1]

if your going from the original wall at far end you can string line it well

by staking a long wood into the ground and fastening it from brick heights

you would need the size of brick your gap of cement and measure it
then you would mark up the wood in brick and cement heights marking as far as you can drill a screw in on each height

now to level it is easier than you think a string line can be leveled with just a string line and a level even over a long distance

yours appears to be 3-4 bricks high at this end

? are you squaring the garden wall as well as you would need the 3/4/5 method as well