cheers for the info from what i can remember i was using on friday,this is what the gaffa has it set on, its on 150amps with i think 0.1 slope up and down the percentage is 30% but only goes up to 50 or 60 if i remember right, as for the pre and post flow i think they are set wrong to be honest i think they are way too low i even think the pre flow may be 0.1 id have to look again and get back to you. iv had a look on the gauge on the gas bottle ( argon and helium mix in one bottle) and the bottle is full and the other guage is on around 8 not sure what that is though.Assuming you understand the ones down the left side, your middle buttons (L, knob, R) should take you through your pulse settings:
Along the lines of (left to right)
pre flow (gas before arc)
start amps (so you can start high for heat and then work at lower amps, eg.)
slope up (how long for amps)
Peak amps (so if you want max 140A that’s this one)
Then it’s % on time (i usually use 30-40%) meaning 30-40% of your arc is Peak, then dips for 60-70% to your lower amps
you’ve got frequency, or pulses per second.
Low amps (trough, etc.)
then you have slope down, slope amps, and post-flow.
ah nice at least i know the left buttons now, im literally a novice iv had around 1 hour to 1 and half hours on the machine max and just trying to get info on this machine see if its set up right. this is what iv got so far on the edge of a wheel just messing with the settings and winging it basicsllyView attachment 284052
I was aboutto explain the middle but see it is already done so saves me typing
EDIT
The 47 I have on the left should be 4T
also whats the v,s and %? i know the hz is hertz, and i know the machine is supposed to be roughly 70-30% but that percentage when i get on that one i think it goes up to 60% tops anyone know what them settings should be? main goal is to be able to weld wheels with cracks, maybe other little jobs
haha i know prep is key but to say iv had a hour and half tops on it and never picked a tig welder up before, i know it miles away from decent but at least got abit of a bead going.First things first- CLEAN THE BLOODY METAL!!!
set your AC balance to around 45-55%; top amps at ~145 and low amps at ~65.
set pulse at about 2.5Hz, pre flow 0.5, post flow 0.5.
set your gas flow on the peashooter to around 10-12LPM, use a 2.4mm tungsten and a 2.4mm rod.
keep your stick out minimal (tungsten sticking out the ceramic) and angle the torch slightly towards the direction you’re welding.
from there, muck about with your amps and dial it in.
right so is that the one i keep seeing that needs to be set around 30-35%. and yeah untill i get good at welding consistant strong welds i wont be doing any customers wheels any time soon trust methe one that only goes to 60% is your AC balance - it determines whether you’re welding onto or welding into the aluminium (very simplistic).
don’t go rushing to weld wheels. i appreciate you’re keen, but wheels are for cars and cars routinely go 70mph+.
you do not want to be the guy responsible for a welded wheel failing and causing a huge deadly crash.
right so is that the one i keep seeing that needs to be set around 30-35%. and yeah untill i get good at welding consistant strong welds i wont be doing any customers wheels any time soon trust me
cheers, honestly im trying to be self taught up untill now the only thing my boss has done for the face of the wheels is turn the amps up to 150 and the rest is me just watching youtube coming onto forums but this seems the best forum so signed up and just getting help from all you guys who have more experience than me and more knowledge appreciate all the tips and infogood man!
and yes, some fair results there for an hour or so’s practice. you must have a reasonably good teacher!
post-flow on aluminium for this type of thing is fairly minimal, you just want a slope down to avoid cratering the last dab.
if you move onto stainless then you need post-flow of >3s to stop the weld turning grey (gas flow determines your rainbow colours )
also how do you set low amps, i thought it was just set the amps to what you need for the thickness of the metal you are welding?First things first- CLEAN THE BLOODY METAL!!!
set your AC balance to around 45-55%; top amps at ~145 and low amps at ~65.
set pulse at about 2.5Hz, pre flow 0.5, post flow 0.5.
set your gas flow on the peashooter to around 10-12LPM, use a 2.4mm tungsten and a 2.4mm rod.
keep your stick out minimal (tungsten sticking out the ceramic) and angle the torch slightly towards the direction you’re welding.
from there, muck about with your amps and dial it in.
yeah on them pictures above on the edge of the wheel i believe the settings were, 150 amps 0.1 i think on pre and post flow 30% ac balance may have been 0.1 slope up and slope down and i think 50hz.Personally I would not use pulse on aluminium and even more so when just starting out as it will complicate things whilst learning.
AC Frequency is a preference, some people like a high frequency I, personally, prefer it around about the 70Hz or maybe even lower on thicker sections.
Personally I would not use pulse on aluminium and even more so when just starting out as it will complicate things whilst learning.
AC Frequency is a preference, some people like a high frequency I, personally, prefer it around about the 70Hz or maybe even lower on thicker sections.
Maybe, just something I have never found useful on aluminium but everyone is different.ah yeah, i forgot about arc frequency!
idk, i think noobs are more likely to melt through because of the tendency to “chase” when it starts to sink, whereas some pulsing might help.
from my understanding cast ally like on wheels is harder to weld than a clean lump of ally just because of the air pockets and crap thats in the cast is that right? and ill just have to get into a rythem without the pulse first and see if it helps after i get used to it abit moreah yeah, i forgot about arc frequency!
idk, i think noobs are more likely to melt through because of the tendency to “chase” when it starts to sink, whereas some pulsing might help.
yeah makes sense i wanted to start tig welding at my old work but he wouldn't get me on a welding course or get a second hand machine so could of have 10 years under me if he did but starting a little late going on 30 so will take some time to pick up tips and tricks from people like yourselves and crucially experience.Suppose it depends on the wheels, some will be better than others in a similar way as engine castings can be. Welding alloy wheels is not something I have done a lot of but I do a lot of boat stuff and it can be pretty bad with corrosion but I don't find it too difficult but I have been welding Aluminium for a good while, Mig a lot longer than Tig but even Tig I suppose it must be 20yrs.