Tragically I think I'd struggle to get a 20mm on centre. The official limit is 3/4" x 5/8" (19mmx15.9mm) and having measured it there is no way without dropped tooling to fit it.
- Thread starter Fastdruid
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Tragically I think I'd struggle to get a 20mm on centre. The official limit is 3/4" x 5/8" (19mmx15.9mm) and having measured it there is no way without dropped tooling to fit it.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Works well in the rear tool post doesn't it. Came from @HoodAt 106 thou deep I would also grind my own! I am fortunate enough to have a bar that takes hss stock courtesy of @eLuSiVeMiTe
It will be interesting to see the end result whatever you end up using
At 106 thou deep I would also grind my own! I am fortunate enough to have a bar that takes hss stock courtesy of @eLuSiVeMiTe
It will be interesting to see the end result whatever you end up using
Right now I have the issue of work, childcare, weather & darkness which is seriously cutting down on my potential garage time. Add to that I don't have a bench grinder setup and hence why despite having a whole heap of HSS blanks I'm buying rather than making. Or rather failing to buy as they sent me the wrong thing.
*cough* 5/8" not 3/8" obviously!
Fixed it now.Blame reading a dodgy scan of a 70 year old manual and not thinking "hmmm, 3/8 != 15.9mm"!
for big thread tools a cut off wheel in an angle grinder saves a bit of time, rough with angle grinder use a bench stone to put lip on it, makes it easier if you make it flat toppedRight now I have the issue of work, childcare, weather & darkness which is seriously cutting down on my potential garage time. Add to that I don't have a bench grinder setup and hence why despite having a whole heap of HSS blanks I'm buying rather than making. Or rather failing to buy as they sent me the wrong thing.
*cough* 5/8" not 3/8" obviously!
Blame reading a dodgy scan of a 70 year old manual and not thinking "hmmm, 3/8 != 15.9mm"!
Stu
Things have not progressed well.
As previously mentioned the first tool I bought was 60° so I ordered one from someone else, set it up and then had a catastrophic brain fart and managed to crash the top slide into the work.
Thankfully the damage wasn't too bad but I did take a chunk out of the topslide.
...and break the new tool.
So I ordered another one...and that was 60°...complained and they sent me *another* 60° one. Both clearly marked as 55, both identical to the previous one (that I'd got as far as a scratch pass with) but clearly both 60°.
Not a 55°!!
Yep, that'll be 60°!
So while not ideal I ended up shaping a tip on a boring bar I have (that takes drill rod either at 45° or 90°)
Fits beautifully.
Next up, cutting the register.
As previously mentioned the first tool I bought was 60° so I ordered one from someone else, set it up and then had a catastrophic brain fart and managed to crash the top slide into the work.
Thankfully the damage wasn't too bad but I did take a chunk out of the topslide.
...and break the new tool.
So I ordered another one...and that was 60°...complained and they sent me *another* 60° one. Both clearly marked as 55, both identical to the previous one (that I'd got as far as a scratch pass with) but clearly both 60°.
Not a 55°!!
Yep, that'll be 60°!
So while not ideal I ended up shaping a tip on a boring bar I have (that takes drill rod either at 45° or 90°)
Fits beautifully.
Next up, cutting the register.
Pete.
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Well done. Too many people over-think this stuff. Your 'not ideal' home-made bar and ground insert is perfectly acceptable practice, and was the way for decades until insrts came along.
As for cast iron grade, damping, hard spots etc - I guarante you that as soon as you screw that chuck on for the first time you'll forget all about all that stuff and just get on with using the chuck. Steel is perfectly fine.
As for cast iron grade, damping, hard spots etc - I guarante you that as soon as you screw that chuck on for the first time you'll forget all about all that stuff and just get on with using the chuck. Steel is perfectly fine.
Ah, to be fair it's not a home made bar. It's a NuLok No3 which is a reasonably hefty 5/8" diameter bar with a split clamp. Takes cutting tools made from 1/4" round bar.
It's rather a nice thing tbh.
No, the "not ideal" was mostly because I had to form it using an angle grinder rather than a bench grinder/wheel. I'm not entirely sure I got the perfect form but it was good enough and at the end I did "cheat" a little, I have a BSW1.5"x6tpi tap which I ran through when it was close enough.
Sooooo, I changed my mind and didn't fit the ER32 but instead ordered a ER40 (with a larger 100mm backing plate) which obviously delayed things.
Turned up yesterday so machined the register and cleaned up the outside.
Here we are today. Just needs some mounting holes drilled and tapped.
I could have made it shorter but being honest if I'm working with small bar I'm going to be close up to the chuck anyway so didn't want the carriage hanging off the end of the gap. This length is about perfect to get nice and close without running off the end of the bed.
Turned up yesterday so machined the register and cleaned up the outside.
Here we are today. Just needs some mounting holes drilled and tapped.
I could have made it shorter but being honest if I'm working with small bar I'm going to be close up to the chuck anyway so didn't want the carriage hanging off the end of the gap. This length is about perfect to get nice and close without running off the end of the bed.
zx9
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Looking good, seeing the picture before reading the text my thoughts about clearing the gap were exactly was you wrote.Sooooo, I changed my mind and didn't fit the ER32 but instead ordered a ER40 (with a larger 100mm backing plate) which obviously delayed things.
Turned up yesterday so machined the register and cleaned up the outside.
Here we are today. Just needs some mounting holes drilled and tapped.
I could have made it shorter but being honest if I'm working with small bar I'm going to be close up to the chuck anyway so didn't want the carriage hanging off the end of the gap. This length is about perfect to get nice and close without running off the end of the bed.
Did you bore through the backing plate to allow long stock to pass into the spindle?
Yep, being able to pass through the bore was the whole point of making it a proper screw on chuck as I already had a MT3<->ER32 chuck.
It's actually threaded 1.5"x6TPI BSW the entire way through, it was easier than just cutting to a stop (cutting backwards out of a blind hole is *far* easier but far riskier with a screw on chuck!).
As I'm limited to 3/4" through the spindle that was partly the original reasoning (that plus I had most of the collets) behind initially going with ER32 and didn't figure the additional 5-6mm was worth it as I'd need to buy all new collets, it was the "actually you can get oversized up to 32mm" that made me reconsider. Yes it is a bit of a pain that I'll have to buy them all but I'll probably target the sizes I need rather than buy the lot, I think I've only ever used about 4 of the ER32 "set" I have!
Of course right now I don't have _any_ ER40 collets...or even the correct spanner!
dan.taylor.1
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On the subject of chucks and backplates. I have need to make an adapter between an L2 spindle mount 250mm backplate and a 250mm bison 4jaw as the mounting bolts for the bison fall into the hole in the centre of the backplate, so I need to turn a plate to bolt the chuck to from the front, and then bolt that to the backplate from the back (possibly from the front first, haven't had it all next to the spindle yet. Would mild steel be OK for this or am I better with en8 or something? It's not in contact with the spindle nose so don't need cast iron.
Brad93
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That won’t be cast if it’s been chromed
Brad93
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Just use some good quality steel plate mate. I have a very nice very flat bit of 20mm for such things. Its not standard S275 though. It’s much tougher.
I’d offer you a bit but Spencer had the rest off me
dan.taylor.1
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I can get a slice off the end of a big en8 round from my steel supplier cheaper than anywhere online so I'll just use that.
