Banana manifold

[pptom]

Hello, just in the process of shaking down my latest project and have ran into an exhaust manifold issue.
Basically I went cheap (really all that is available) and brought a stainless manifold made in China. Welding is ok, fit is ok and it was cheaper than having a plate laser cut and buying the bends to make one myself, although I may have achieved the same warped result.

You can see where gasses have been escaping and where I've had a little experiment with running an arc across to see if it had any effect (none)
I think my only options left are a skim with a mill or surface grinder, but it's obviously an awkward shape. The flange is 12mm stainless. It's a bit all over the place in terms of flatness
Anyone have any ideas or know anyone near to Northampton who may be able to take this on please?

 

[grim_d]

Easy enough to set up on a milling machine and skim....no doubt someone on here will be local to you.

 

[Wallace]

Easy enough to tack weld supports on for clamping and machining. You could use sanding discs and draw file if the stainless isn't too tough. I would spotface the other side once flat to give the nuts a better surface.

 

[Bullet2012]

Nice, can you share more about the conversion, looks neater than the k series versions.

 

[Paul.]

These were the goto people when I had an interest in such things.

NOTICE OF CLOSURE:

O you could try Hillside, very clever machinsts with some impressive kit

Hill Side Bison CNC

www.hillsideadr.co.uk

 

[pptom]

Thanks Paul, Automotive are my go to for engine machining, I suppose what I'm really after is a Northampton Doubleboost!

Engine is a Suzuki g13b from a 90's swift GTI, I rebuilt as standard, mated with a Suzuki SJ413 transmission to make it RWD(same block pattern). 16v, running the original FI, ECU etc. Not massive numbers at about 100bhp, but a 7.5k redline and I think it suits the car perfectly. All ally engine too, so it's several tonnes lighter than the A series it replaced.

Brought as a complete running car to do an engine swap, but that turned into a project by itself perhaps unsurprisingly. New floorpan, boot floor, sills, rear bulkheads, spring boxes and numerous other parts. In some places there were 4 layers with all of the previous repairs!
Having gone through this I now have a new worry about some MOT exempt death traps driving around.

Many horrors
Previous body shop liked a drop of filler

What have I brought!

Quality MOT welding

Rebuilt engine

 

[minimutly]

Someone is making complete new chassis for these, not saying you need one, but some sections might be useful. But then this is a welding forum - make you own.
I set up a 1275 version of one of these once - rebuilt carbs, ignition etc, nothing special. Took it down the road for an enthusiastic road test. I changed 3rd to 4th at a "reasonable speed" - nearly sh.. myself - the car tried to jump the hedge! Slack axle bushes!

 

[Paul.]

Takes me back, I used to work on Austin Healeys, this is a Frogeye shell having a bit of therapy https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/media/albums/another-frogeye.78/

And another one here, https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/media/albums/1959-frogeye-restoration.64/

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Quality MOT welding

That's worse than my efforts.

 

[Bullet2012]

We have two midgets a 1970 and a 72. Although the 72 is a bare shell. Have been looking at what way to go with it, have considered lots of ideas but none have started yet, had never considered the Suzuki, food for thought. Thank you.

 

[pptom]

Unfortunately these engines are not very common, think I've only seen 1 for sale in the past year, mine took some hunting and Suzuki have discontinued many parts, fortunately there are some aftermarket options for piston rings, gaskets etc.
I've been fortunate with the gearbox as it seems to suit the car / engine really well, it's 5 speed and only cost me £10.
I would think a Jimny engine / box would be good though not as revvy / sporty but there are many being broken due to rust. They are 4wd, but it's a normal RWD box, power to the the front wheels comes out of a separate transfer box.

 

[grim_d]

SR20.

 

[Blue Chips]

Easy enough to tack weld supports on for clamping and machining. You could use sanding discs and draw file if the stainless isn't too tough. I would spotface the other side once flat to give the nuts a better surface.

I agree that clamping the manifold for milling shouldn't be too much of a problem, and as Wallace mentioned, I think that spotfacing the contact area under the mounting nut so that the area is parallel to the newly-machined surface is a good idea. You might want to spotface around all of the mounting holes while you're at it, just to be sure.

A "sometimes-acceptable" shortcut to spotfacing could be the use of two-piece spherical washers (aka, leveling washers), as long as the surfaces aren't too far out of parallel. Of course, you'd have to make sure that the manifold mounting studs are all long enough to accommodate the extra thickness of the spherical washers. Here are a couple of examples of leveling washers in metric and inch sizes from a US source. They should be available from sources in the UK as well.
https://www.mcmaster.com/washers/leveling-and-wave-washers/metric-leveling-washers-7/
https://www.mcmaster.com/leveling-washers/leveling-washers-7/system-of-measurement~inch/

I should add that these aren't lock washers, and if you need a locking function, you might consider some appropriate all-metal lock nuts. I'd check with the engine manufacturer for recommendations.

 

[pptom]

Thanks both makes sense, I think spot facing might be a problem with the headers in the way, but I'll look into the washers, might be able to make something useable on the Myford.

 

[minimutly]

SR20.

K seies all day long, choice of flavours from 1400 up to 1800 turbo, if you really want to scare youself.

 

[frank horton]

I only ever use brass fasteners in and around the exhaust.....

in California during the 70's I used to fit 1500cc Datsuns engines and gearboxes to MG TD's and the like....
u could buy brand new engines n boxes brand new in a crate.....
much better than the orig oil leaking rubbish......thats if it would start......hahaha...

 

[Olderisbetter]

My mates dad and uncle used to do sprites and midgets for years and when i asked why he explained they could be made quick and also they could be carried down the 3 foot alley way between his house and next door into his garden workshop

 

[grim_d]

K seies all day long, choice of flavours from 1400 up to 1800 turbo, if you really want to scare youself.

Cute.

Wrong, but cute.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

I had an Austin Sprite project - of of the 1022 that were made after the agreement with Healey expired. Couldn't sell it despite low price so stripped out the engine / box, instruments, pedal box and seats. Then sold the rolling shell for exactly what I wanted for the complete car to somebody who was going to "update" and fit K Series ! Still got the parts and am fitting the 1275 lump and gearbox into my Marlin Roadster to replace the Marina 1800TC engine & box

 

[Olderisbetter]

I do love the sprite and midget but always preferred the round wheel arch, i have a 75 plastic bumper rot box stored i would love to build a sebring sprite replica with the peter may engineering kit looks nice.