Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,970
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
does this count?
taking me more than 1 day, TBF.
any guesses what its for?
Citric acid or electrolysis bath for big stuff?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Citric acid or electrolysis bath for big stuff?
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
- Messages
- 3,674
- Location
- North Kent, UK
lol no.
clue, its right in front of the doors to the workshop and its finished depth will be 5'11". i stand 5'9" tall
Inspection pit
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,970
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
lol no.
clue, its right in front of the doors to the workshop and its finished depth will be 5'11". i stand 5'9" tall
Gotcha! A pit.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,776
- Location
- UK
I made a big dent into sorting out my piles of fixings to make space for more junk. The steel drawers I bought the other day are already half full.
I could do with more dividers. They are 130 x 65 and 1.2mm thick but could stand being 2mm. I need about 100 of them, I'm wondering what the cheapest/easiest way of making or getting them made is.
I can't remember how I arrived at owning 40 M24 * 60 bolts. Must have been left by the fabricators when we built the barn. Not sure if I will ever need them.
All metric done, at least the bulk of it, all the Allen bolts. Just a huge pile of UNC/BSW/BSF/UNF to get through.
I could do with more dividers. They are 130 x 65 and 1.2mm thick but could stand being 2mm. I need about 100 of them, I'm wondering what the cheapest/easiest way of making or getting them made is.
I can't remember how I arrived at owning 40 M24 * 60 bolts. Must have been left by the fabricators when we built the barn. Not sure if I will ever need them.
All metric done, at least the bulk of it, all the Allen bolts. Just a huge pile of UNC/BSW/BSF/UNF to get through.
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,506
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,332
- Location
- Going Away.
Almost a day to my self, with a few detours.
But I was having fun. I recently acquired 6 brass blow torches. Their future is as yet not set and I will see what comes along.
This one was going to be turned into an LED Lamp.
But it looked to good to be butchered. It also works.
The Label was saved @angellonewolf see..
So, as that one was not going electric, I dug out another one.
A quick test showed it also worked.
But what made me stop and have another idea was the pressure release valve.
Normally you have a thumb screw.
This is a spring loaded twist valve.
A real odd ball.
Normally the main nozzle is all brass or all steel. With the end cap fixed.
This one is brass main jet, steel body and a free back cap.
A google search last night gave me a few hints. In WW2 brass was needed for other uses, so it was sometime in short supply. So the hybrid came about.
So we attacked a third torch.
This is a WD item dated 1944. It was tested and it worked, but I was being nagged that a friend wanted one of my LED lamps.
So I I fired the coffee machine and set the Iron Maiden CD on 10.
Using a paraffin blow torch, one of the unrestored ones to heat up seized fixings.
This one was soon red hot and out. Same time I used the torch to burn of a lot of the rust.
The label was saved, but it need a spray of cleat coat to save from flaking off completely.
Not my choice of bulb, the lady supplied it.
Now, the lamp holder is a snug fit and held in with glue, but a cable is in place to the jet for earth continuity. The cable is 3 core PVC cloth covered 1mm cable.
But, this torch can be down cycled into a working blow torch. As no holes or parts have been removed.
But I was having fun. I recently acquired 6 brass blow torches. Their future is as yet not set and I will see what comes along.
This one was going to be turned into an LED Lamp.
But it looked to good to be butchered. It also works.
The Label was saved @angellonewolf see..
So, as that one was not going electric, I dug out another one.
A quick test showed it also worked.
But what made me stop and have another idea was the pressure release valve.
Normally you have a thumb screw.
This is a spring loaded twist valve.
A real odd ball.
Normally the main nozzle is all brass or all steel. With the end cap fixed.
This one is brass main jet, steel body and a free back cap.
A google search last night gave me a few hints. In WW2 brass was needed for other uses, so it was sometime in short supply. So the hybrid came about.
So we attacked a third torch.
This is a WD item dated 1944. It was tested and it worked, but I was being nagged that a friend wanted one of my LED lamps.
So I I fired the coffee machine and set the Iron Maiden CD on 10.
Using a paraffin blow torch, one of the unrestored ones to heat up seized fixings.
This one was soon red hot and out. Same time I used the torch to burn of a lot of the rust.
The label was saved, but it need a spray of cleat coat to save from flaking off completely.
Not my choice of bulb, the lady supplied it.
Now, the lamp holder is a snug fit and held in with glue, but a cable is in place to the jet for earth continuity. The cable is 3 core PVC cloth covered 1mm cable.
But, this torch can be down cycled into a working blow torch. As no holes or parts have been removed.
Last edited:
Dexy
Member
- Messages
- 59
- Location
- North of Inverness
Required some flatbar rolling and was getting fed up with the cranking so beefed this up and rig up some drive through reduction box and VFD 1 HP motor
done some 12 x 100 mm that’s about it maxed out removed nylon bush on drive shaft and put in bronze also made up guide rollers
done some 12 x 100 mm that’s about it maxed out removed nylon bush on drive shaft and put in bronze also made up guide rollers
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,570
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
Just some simple blocks for hand-sanding. I've got one I bought many years ago, but it's impossible to get the sandpaper under enough tension.
I saw this design on a video sometime a long, long time ago and making some has been on my list for ages. I was casting around for something to do and put my hands on a few blocks of plastic that came out of a skip a while ago, so I thought I'd just get on with it. Bars are 10 mm mild steel; o-ring grooves are 4 mm and the o-rings are a random size out of the selection pack that seemed to fit. All the blocks are a slightly different size to one another as each is the biggest I could get out of the chunks of plastic I had. From how easily it machined, I think it's probably acetal.
The two that aren't assembled in the picture aren't quite finished yet: I need to make the steel bars (basically cut them to length and stick a groove in them for the o-ring) and file the corners of the o-ring slots so the o-rings aren't going over any sharp corners.
I saw this design on a video sometime a long, long time ago and making some has been on my list for ages. I was casting around for something to do and put my hands on a few blocks of plastic that came out of a skip a while ago, so I thought I'd just get on with it. Bars are 10 mm mild steel; o-ring grooves are 4 mm and the o-rings are a random size out of the selection pack that seemed to fit. All the blocks are a slightly different size to one another as each is the biggest I could get out of the chunks of plastic I had. From how easily it machined, I think it's probably acetal.
The two that aren't assembled in the picture aren't quite finished yet: I need to make the steel bars (basically cut them to length and stick a groove in them for the o-ring) and file the corners of the o-ring slots so the o-rings aren't going over any sharp corners.
paulmitchell1984
Member
- Messages
- 842
- Location
- Leeds
Not strictly today, made it yesterday and took the pic today, needs a coat of paint and the boards sanding and staining but Doris is happy now we have a shoe rack
arther dailey
Member
- Messages
- 6,907
- Location
- England
seriously talented work there
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,506
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
It was a turret I made for my CNC lathe.
It was too cluttered though, 12 positions made the tools too close together so after a few years I made an 8 position VDI turret.
Agroshield
Member
- Messages
- 6,170
The driver's door is a closed shape and will fall out, so the two lines inside its outline will not be reproduced.
I was wondering if the software can detect this automatically.
Fraserb
Member
- Messages
- 1,561
- Location
- Scottish Borders
Well spotted, the software doesn't actually flag them up but on a drawing like that when you convert it it shows the outline in red, non closed shapes white and a closed shape yellow so when I did that one it showed the 2 small lines in white and the door in yellow so you know you've fudged up. This was after I'd sorted the mistake.
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 19,098
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
That’s a damn sight smarter than the Swiftcut software!
Fraserb
Member
- Messages
- 1,561
- Location
- Scottish Borders
Yeah it seems to work well, sometimes when I've drawn out brackets like this when you convert them it'll show the out line white and there will be a stray bit somewhere, usually when you show the tool paths it'll have an extra pierce where the stray bit is so you can go back and alter it.
finyuk2005
Member
- Messages
- 783
What software is that you are using?
