inchpincher
2-stroke terror
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How would you cut it neatly? Also the best technique for even thicker plate, tried searching but think i may be wording the question badly...
ta,
ta,
- Thread starter inchpincher
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KTMMICK
Member
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Plasma cutter with attachment, oxy/acetylene with attachment......how many do you have to make? If lots maybe a Company with a cnc plasma or waterjet is the way forward.
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Holesaw if its only one or two, and a decent drill. Keep the speed slow. Or trepaner if you have a good pillar drill and can put it on it. Otherwise gas/plasma, clean up with a die grinder.
For thicker stuff, i suppose 6mm+ plasma/ oxy fuel profiler is probably the easiest.
For thicker stuff, i suppose 6mm+ plasma/ oxy fuel profiler is probably the easiest.
series2
Member
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Can be done easily and surprisingly quickly with a holesaw, have used 63mm saw on 10mm m/s plate more than once. as above plenty of lubrication, WD40 works well.
I use the screwfix cheapy range (the red ones), work fine for me. One tip for more accurate holes, drill a 6mm pilot hole, and replace the pilot drill in the arbor with a piece of 6mm silver steel, it stops the holsaw from wandering due to enlarging of the pilot hole.
I use the screwfix cheapy range (the red ones), work fine for me. One tip for more accurate holes, drill a 6mm pilot hole, and replace the pilot drill in the arbor with a piece of 6mm silver steel, it stops the holsaw from wandering due to enlarging of the pilot hole.
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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As others have said. A holesaw can make a decent job, but it can also make a rite **** of it as well.
If it would fit on the mill then I would use a smaller holesaw then finish off with a boring head. All depends on what it's for?
If it would fit on the mill then I would use a smaller holesaw then finish off with a boring head. All depends on what it's for?
inchpincher
2-stroke terror
- Messages
- 471
- Location
- Tring, UK
Unfortunately i don't have a plasma (yet 
) or a milling machine but i do have decent hole saws but a crap pillar drill - i don't think it will go nearly as slow as i imagine it would need. 100 rpm tops right?
It's for a one off bit of plate that's currently a makeshift top yoke on a ratty cutdown scooter i've bought. I'm not making a replacement yet but it got me thinking about how to approach it. Made some interesting discoveries searching though, never knew what a mag drill was or broaching bits....
) or a milling machine but i do have decent hole saws but a crap pillar drill - i don't think it will go nearly as slow as i imagine it would need. 100 rpm tops right?It's for a one off bit of plate that's currently a makeshift top yoke on a ratty cutdown scooter i've bought. I'm not making a replacement yet but it got me thinking about how to approach it. Made some interesting discoveries searching though, never knew what a mag drill was or broaching bits....
pidgeon chit welder
sticking metal since 1962
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Can you still get the castellated tungsten or hardened toothed tank cutters that have a high tensile bolt and nut ?
You use spanners to slowly but surely cut all sorts of flat plate including boiler plate , cuts holes up to something like 1 inch thick with precision holes up to sizes of 1 to 10 inches , nice and slow though.
You have to precisoin drill the centre bolt hole and put the bolt in from the underside to use the shank as the mandrel.
You use spanners to slowly but surely cut all sorts of flat plate including boiler plate , cuts holes up to something like 1 inch thick with precision holes up to sizes of 1 to 10 inches , nice and slow though.
You have to precisoin drill the centre bolt hole and put the bolt in from the underside to use the shank as the mandrel.
