Rapidor Major

[Milkybars]

unfortunatley not, I am not that skilled when it comes to welding / brazing. hopefully someone locally can assist

 

[brightspark]

unfortunatley not, I am not that skilled when it comes to welding / brazing. hopefully someone locally can assist

pity u weren't local its an easy fix

 

[Seadog]

It may be just dirt, but the other side looks like there might be the start of a crack in the same place.

 

[Agroshield]

It may be just dirt, but the other side looks like there might be the start of a crack in the same place.

The internal corner of the assembly looks uncomfortably sharp to me: surely a stress riser, especially with the reciprocating action (stress reversal). I wonder if it is worth making a cardboard model and seeing just how close to a semi-circle it could be made and then building up with braze on both the broken and unbroken sides. Even a small radius fillet will help.

 

[brightspark]

there a strait pull push and well strong enough. just not meant to be knocked out from the side if there seized in

 

[Seadog]

If I had a decent torch I'd silver solder it for you, but I haven't I'm afraid.

 

[Milkybars]

@brightspark ..if no one comes forward. Would you accept a parcel

 

[brightspark]

@brightspark ..if no one comes forward. Would you accept a parcel

if u get stuck I will

 

[Milkybars]

Progress continues:
Much cleaning, stripping and painting.
@Seadog was correct it was a standard microswitch
A little 10 amp with a short lever fits (£0.75 !!) from farnell (CPC) had to pack the order out with some loctite and 224 piece Stainless small metric nut and bolt set.

Did a test wire up with all the components on the bench and the little fella works just fine
@Ruffian has aquired some bronze for me ..So progress on that bearing will be forthcoming.
@brightspark has been sent broken bits, hopefully these will glue together okay

Had to rig up a bearing puller to get the main shaft bronze bearing out, this is a lovely one with helix grooves cut in... the main shaft and it are worn though, so more on this later

 

[Milkybars]

@Fazerruss Does yours have a pin through standing arm, on clean up of the arm today I found the reminants of a pin/bolt ??

 

[Fazerruss]

Nope, mine only has a dowel pin at the top where it pivots

 

[brightspark]

the main big bronze bush I made for mine came from a spring hanger of a double decker bus the od was correct but just a bit of machining internal and shorten the sides

 

[brightspark]

got the conrod repaired today turned a temp pin to keep the fork in line . used the flamefast torch to get the heat up and used the oxyacetylene torch at the same time to braze it gave it a quick shotblast and a coat of 2k etch primer and its good to go post it back on Monday

 

[Milkybars]

What a diamond @brightspark and skilled with it too. Very Grateful for your efforts I have to say

 

[daleyd]

got the conrod repaired today turned a temp pin to keep the fork in line . used the flamefast torch to get the heat up and used the oxyacetylene torch at the same time to braze it gave it a quick shotblast and a coat of 2k etch primer and its good to go post it back on Monday

Cracking job (pardon the pun!)

 

[Tigman]

10 out of 10 for that one brightspark !

 

[brightspark]

10 out of 10 for that one brightspark !

thanks for that its nice to get something fixed and see it back in working order

 

[Milkybars]

So to the main Shaft: this holds the Flywheel at one end (keyed) and a cranked arm at the other which is held in place by a taper and nut

The issue is as you can see from the images that 50 years of use/abuse has taken it's toll.

So I am currently thinking of setting up the bronze bush (1.625" OD) and cleaning this up it's original internal dimension was 1.250".
I don't suspect it will take a lot to clean it up but maybe 0.50 at the very most. So far so straight forward.

The shaft is a tad more tricky, I thinking of leaving the keyed end alone and turning of behind this a fair depth (between the red lines 0.200 so 0.400 off OD) to enable me to shrink/loctite an oversized sleeve.
Then machine the sleeve in place so the shaft fits the now oversized bearing
I would leave the taper alone as much as possible but can sort out the portion on the sleeve clocking of whats left of the original.

So the question is would this work and is it the best option (not looking to remanufacture the shaft !!)

 

[Agroshield]

...turning off behind this a fair depth (between the red lines 0.200 so 0.400 off OD) to enable me to shrink/loctite an oversized sleeve.

I think I am misunderstanding you but if you only turn between the red lines, how will you install the sleeve unless it is a split sleeve?

Where does the face of the cranked arm sit in relation to the fat end of the taper? If you have to eat into the taper at all with the diameter reduction, the left/taper end of the sleeve will be knife-edged when the shaft is returned to its finished dimensions.

Maybe you could sacrifice the Woodruff keyway - turn the shaft down until it disappears, sleeve it from that end (square shoulder at taper end) and then re-key with a rectangular key that does not breach the underside of the sleeve.

 

[Milkybars]

@Agroshield if I turn down past some of the taper the sleeve can be slipped on that end to the shoulder at the woodruff end.
I can then use what is left of the taper to clock off and re-create the taper including a portion of the new sleeve.
The taper will go slightly longer towards the keyway end given the greater diameter but this should be an issue given the large fresh bearing surface area or the hole shaft