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Bullet2012
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It may depend on the engine but yes tdc for cylinder one.
If you can give More info about the engine model , manufacturer etc then I am sure that someone on the forum will have some info they can part with to assist you.
If you can give More info about the engine model , manufacturer etc then I am sure that someone on the forum will have some info they can part with to assist you.
Dcal
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What engine is it on and is it just points?
Get a workshop manual and check what the timing should be, it's very simple to set if you go about it the right way.
I would try and get it running before you start pulling it apart and getting the distributor looked at.
It would need to be completely wrecked to stop it starting.
Get a workshop manual and check what the timing should be, it's very simple to set if you go about it the right way.
I would try and get it running before you start pulling it apart and getting the distributor looked at.
It would need to be completely wrecked to stop it starting.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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The work shop manual will tell you hoe to set up the timing.
What cylinder.
What setting before TDC.
Points gap.
Whip out the plugs.
Turn the engine over.
Watch the Rotor arm, see if it moves.
I have had some Bosch Dizzy, shear the gear pin. Easy fix.
When it is all set up.
Set the points gap.
Rotate the engine and check again.
Also pick a random cylinder and check, some lobs can wear. Go for a average.
Refit arm and cap.
Test for sparks.
Insert plugs.
Try to start.
We are guessing you have checked the fuel, belt/chain etc?
What cylinder.
What setting before TDC.
Points gap.
Whip out the plugs.
Turn the engine over.
Watch the Rotor arm, see if it moves.
I have had some Bosch Dizzy, shear the gear pin. Easy fix.
When it is all set up.
Set the points gap.
Rotate the engine and check again.
Also pick a random cylinder and check, some lobs can wear. Go for a average.
Refit arm and cap.
Test for sparks.
Insert plugs.
Try to start.
We are guessing you have checked the fuel, belt/chain etc?
Hi
It's a rover 3.5 v8
I can't ajust the manual points to size using the feeler guage. As there seems to be a problem with the mechanism.
That why I want it out.
It was running up in till the time it got moved. But the points where not gapped correctly . Points where bent apart and not adjust using the screw.
It's a rover 3.5 v8
I can't ajust the manual points to size using the feeler guage. As there seems to be a problem with the mechanism.
That why I want it out.
It was running up in till the time it got moved. But the points where not gapped correctly . Points where bent apart and not adjust using the screw.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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...and don't forget the drive gear has skewed teeth so you need to point the rotor arm further round than the direction you need it to end up. Further clockwise I think, although it's about 10 years since I had my Rover's distributor out...
You could probably pick up a later model electronic dissie for 30 quid and upgrade the whole ignition system at a stroke
35DLM8 is the best option (with the ignition amplifier on the side).
You could probably pick up a later model electronic dissie for 30 quid and upgrade the whole ignition system at a stroke
35DLM8 is the best option (with the ignition amplifier on the side).
Melvyn Best
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If you can’t adjust the points gap using the hexagonal fitting on the outside of the distributor I suspect the heel on the points has worn away? It may be a badly worn distributor ? I didn’t ever bother using feeler gauges on any of my Rovers , just eyeballed the gap , get it close enough to start then use a dwell meter and adjust with the engine running. You should be able to check the static timing using a test light connected to the coil neg terminal ,make sure the rotor arm is pointing to no 1 HT lead but check with the distributor cap off
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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As long as the piston is in the right position you can turn the distributor body to match the number one segment to the rotor arm and it will run then get your timing light on the job to set the timing to whatever the book says usually something around 8°BTDC.
Stueeee
Old git
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Changing to one of the later electronic distributors is well worth while on the RV8. The DM8 and DLM8 distributors have the same constant energy electronics that provide a really impressive spark when paired with the matching coil.
You might need to do some jiggery pokery with the oil pump drive (it is part of the distributor drive gear setup) as it differs in detail on the P5 & P6 motors (which had the points distributor) from the later SD1 motors.
You might need to do some jiggery pokery with the oil pump drive (it is part of the distributor drive gear setup) as it differs in detail on the P5 & P6 motors (which had the points distributor) from the later SD1 motors.
Stueeee
Old git
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Knew I had the pics somewhere of the last time I did this job.
35D8 (points) distributor on the left from a P5 or P6, this should have a plain helical gear on it -note the screwdriver oil pump drive which is part of the shaft. Bare (electronic) 35DM8 distributor on the right. 35DM8 with the SD1 style drive gear in the middle -this has a full floating wobble drive as part of the gear that matches the SD1 oil pump drive. To make the 35DM8 or DLM8 work with the early drive swap the lower shaft into a DM8 or DLM8 and fit the plain gear with a roll pin. almost as quick to do as type.
35D8 (points) distributor on the left from a P5 or P6, this should have a plain helical gear on it -note the screwdriver oil pump drive which is part of the shaft. Bare (electronic) 35DM8 distributor on the right. 35DM8 with the SD1 style drive gear in the middle -this has a full floating wobble drive as part of the gear that matches the SD1 oil pump drive. To make the 35DM8 or DLM8 work with the early drive swap the lower shaft into a DM8 or DLM8 and fit the plain gear with a roll pin. almost as quick to do as type.
Greeves246
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You should set the points gap with a dwellangle meter. It allows for the variation on the cam lobes on multi cylinder distributors. I've only used mine once in the last twenty years
Melvyn Best
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Remember a P6 I brought cheap spitting back through one of the carbs at idle, after checking compression, firing order etc I took a rocker cover off and started the engine to find a couple of valves not moving due to missing cam lobes!! The cams on these engines wear, it was cheaper to fit an aftermarket go faster cam than an original
Morrisman
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...and don't forget the drive gear has skewed teeth so you need to point the rotor arm further round than the direction you need it to end up. Further clockwise I think, although it's about 10 years since I had my Rover's distributor out...
You could probably pick up a later model electronic dissie for 30 quid and upgrade the whole ignition system at a stroke
35DLM8 is the best option (with the ignition amplifier on the side).
I had one in my RV8 engined hot rod, real simple piece of kit. It came with the electronics in some sort of alloy box with other gadgets, but it turns out you only need the amplifier part, and two wires to the coil. The amp is a standard GM piece of kit, many upgrades available for chump change.
Stueeee
Old git
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Both the DM8 and the DLM8 distributor setups are electronically identical. The DM8 uses a GM HEI module. The DLM8 uses the same electronics in a Lucas made module that hangs on the side of the dizzy. DM8 stator and pickup on the left; DLM8 setup on the right. The only difference is the amplifier connector. This GM HEI type setup is fitted to huge numbers of 4, 6 and 8 cylinder non-GM 80s & 90s cars, only disappearing when conventional distributors were replaced by crank triggering and coil packs.
The DM8 has one of this type of module in an aluminium box along with an anti RFI capacitor. This is one of the gazillions of clones of the GM original
Wiring diagram looks like this.
The DM8 has one of this type of module in an aluminium box along with an anti RFI capacitor. This is one of the gazillions of clones of the GM original
Wiring diagram looks like this.
Morrisman
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I have one of those same high power modules sat in my shed, bought it for the Chevy motor in my other hot rod, the HEI distributor, but never got round to fitting it. The motor sounded a bit flat some days, so I thought a fatter spark might be the answer.
Stueeee
Old git
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I have one of those same high power modules sat in my shed, bought it for the Chevy motor in my other hot rod, the HEI distributor, but never got round to fitting it. The motor sounded a bit flat some days, so I thought a fatter spark might be the answer.
View attachment 228584
Nah mate, forget the ignition; I think that insufficient carburation was your problem there
