To get you going just put a 13 amp plug on it for the moment - I reckon you would get pretty close to full power out of that, a 13 amp fuse will take more than 13 amps for a good period of time before it blows. To fit a 16 amp socket you would need to get your garage wiring checked out by an electrician to make sure it’s suitable - but I bet it will run fine from a standard plug.
I probably didn't make my post clear, I'm talking about welders coming with 16A plugs fitted, not those flyleads.
if its plugged in on the ring main it will be rated at 30 or 32 amp back at board. fitting a 13amp plug on the welder will not overload it the ring can take far more than that without overload . what you will find is the 13 amp fuse can carry a constant load of of up to 18 or 19 amp before it blows a minature breaker will trip before it reaches full loadHalfords used to supply SIP welders with a 13a plug. But the paper work advised a 16a one.
It will work, but never got full power. Sometimes the house breaker would let go.
But on the old Wire fuse boards, it would certainly get a bit warm.
if its plugged in on the ring main it will be rated at 30 or 32 amp back at board. fitting a 13amp plug on the welder will not overload it the ring can take far more than that without overload . what you will find is the 13 amp fuse can carry a constant load of of up to 18 or 19 amp before it blows a minature breaker will trip before it reaches full load
You’re still not going to get 16a with one of thoseit’s still only going to allow you to pull 13a max
You could put a 13amp 3 pin plug.
But you will never reach full power.
My 180 runs on 13 amp at full power no problem, good old fuse wire.![]()
There won't be a 16A plug on the end of the lead, it will be bare wires.
That item you linked to would be completely pointless.
Go on then ......let’s see it for a laughWire fuses take a lot of abuse.
I did have a film of a thermal image off a 1960's fuse board on full load.
Go on then ......let’s see it for a laugh