Ashley Burton
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- Northamptonhire
@Jacktegla @Richard. is selling his bandsaw
Bit far for me@Jacktegla @Richard. is selling his bandsaw
Thanks, I only really do mild steel. I was looking at a saw but couldn’t work out if I could run it off a vfd or whether it would have to be a phase converter how do you know. Also where do you buy the blades from what’s the name for them ? Thanks againAssuming its all similar material I think one vari tooth would probably cover that off, its the 3mm wall thickness box that will dictate the tooth count. If you want to start cutting something like 4" diameter alloy bar then you would be better with a lower tooth count. Mines just for hobby use, I have about 4 blades to cover the expected range but I suspect there are some times when I'm not using the most appropriate blade, I have mine on a VFD so I tend to play with the speed to help compensate. I have had old blades recut to a different tooth count before.
Did you think this was a better option than a phase converter ? Also what does more teeth on a blade mean compared to less ?Last blade I brought was from a company on the south coast, can remember their name but I'm sure a web search will reveal suitable sources.
Mine was troublesome to convert cost effectively to a VFD. It started life as a 3phase 440v two speed motor. This type of motor doesn't easily convert to 3 phase 240v, the easiest way would be to purchase a suitable VFD but 240v single phase in to 440v 3 phase out is an expensive option, I went with a step up transformer to get 440v single phase and an inexpensive 440v VFD
Sometimes it is not practical to have a really fine tooth blade as for example it would mean that when cutting RHS you may have too many teeth engaged on the top and bottom but fine for the sides.
Aye, same with angle, I usually cut with the v shape upwards although you have to make sure it is clamped tight enough which may not always be possible on really thin sections.Sometimes you can help that situation by clamping the box section with a v-block so you're cutting at 45° to the sides. It's then a much more consistent thickness as seen by the saw. Something like this.
Do you think a bandsaw or a cold cut saw would be better for the sort of material I’m thinking of cutting. The bandsaw is roughly another £1000 on top of the chop saw and phase converter.Aye, same with angle, I usually cut with the v shape upwards although you have to make sure it is clamped tight enough which may not always be possible on really thin sections.