- Thread starter Jonathan Webb
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Jonathan Webb
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He has subsequently added that he could insert a bolt whilst filling and that the aluminium wouldn't stick to it, so it would be effectively tapped if that would work?
I've had a very lean work period this winter, so if I can reasonably not spend the £50 it would be helpful.
Jonathan Webb
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Would you have any concern over the enlarged bolt hole not supporting and restraining the bolt?
Theoretically it could allow lateral and vertical movement?
just put a bigger bolt in so it's tight?
or... a bit of plate with the bolt welded to it and a hole through for the other bolt... means they'll be nicely braced and the one in the duff hole will never spin
if a bigger bolt isn't an option go with the right size and fill the gap around it with epoxy/whatever filler people recommended earlier (you can put the bolt in the hole and fill around it)
the way it will be clamped with a bolt through it/plate under it means there'll be no real stress on the bolt hole, pretty basic filler will do it
(I'd be very tempted to drill the other hole out so you can weld both bolts to the plate and slide it through, but it's hard to say without seeing it in person)
or... a bit of plate with the bolt welded to it and a hole through for the other bolt... means they'll be nicely braced and the one in the duff hole will never spin
if a bigger bolt isn't an option go with the right size and fill the gap around it with epoxy/whatever filler people recommended earlier (you can put the bolt in the hole and fill around it)
the way it will be clamped with a bolt through it/plate under it means there'll be no real stress on the bolt hole, pretty basic filler will do it
(I'd be very tempted to drill the other hole out so you can weld both bolts to the plate and slide it through, but it's hard to say without seeing it in person)
Jonathan Webb
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- 433
- Location
- West Sussex, England
My plan, given that the engine is currently untested and getting this out again is not all that difficult, is to go for the easy option first.
Also need to fess up, I found they're M12 not 10, which is a bit embarrassing, but it doesn't make a lot of difference either way I don't think.
I was going to go down the 'weld nuts to a plate' route, but the curvature inside meant that that was beyond my enthusiasm and I'm not sure the clearance is there from the flywheel. (Stud is just to demonstrate).
I have decided I'd run a bolt through from the inside. I'll need to grind away at the curvature to get the head to sit flat, but there's plenty of metal there. I'll also bed it on JB weld.
Also need to fess up, I found they're M12 not 10, which is a bit embarrassing, but it doesn't make a lot of difference either way I don't think.
I was going to go down the 'weld nuts to a plate' route, but the curvature inside meant that that was beyond my enthusiasm and I'm not sure the clearance is there from the flywheel. (Stud is just to demonstrate).
I have decided I'd run a bolt through from the inside. I'll need to grind away at the curvature to get the head to sit flat, but there's plenty of metal there. I'll also bed it on JB weld.
