No it is measured at the wire connector inside the welder is will do the measurement again where you marked it.
And wil see what it does when I turn the 4 way mode switch.
- Thread starter jorva
- Start date
No it is measured at the wire connector inside the welder is will do the measurement again where you marked it.
And wil see what it does when I turn the 4 way mode switch.
Sorry, my mistake. It won't go down to 0v as the two 1k resistors are in the circuit 
32v when the trigger is pressed is correct.
Now we have the signal going into the board ok then we need to look at Test 4 again. Can you try that test again and see if the voltage changes when you press the trigger? 4 position switch should be in normal (2T) mode, not 4T, pulse or stitch.
32v when the trigger is pressed is correct.Now we have the signal going into the board ok then we need to look at Test 4 again. Can you try that test again and see if the voltage changes when you press the trigger? 4 position switch should be in normal (2T) mode, not 4T, pulse or stitch.
Ok just did that measurement and when it touch pin 5 with my multimeter is wil switch of the contactor on and of soletimes
Then when you measure without pressing the trigger it will read 17V when you press the trigger it goes to 14,5-14,9V
And I was feeling heat coming of the pcb this thing is getting very hot. See picture
Then when you measure without pressing the trigger it will read 17V when you press the trigger it goes to 14,5-14,9V
And I was feeling heat coming of the pcb this thing is getting very hot. See picture
Is this the position you normally use for welding? When I say normal operation I mean the wire feeds when you press the trigger and stops immediately when you release the trigger. I'm looking at the schematic to try and figure out the hot component issue, how hot is it getting? It's a wirewound resistor and it's quite large compared to most of the other resistors (parts with the coloured bands) so it is designed to cope with quite a bit of current (power). It may get warm but shouldn't get so hot that you can't touch it.
To be honest I don't know i have not used this welder before and there is no manual and my grandpa nor my dad knows in which position they used to set it for normal welding.
Wel it get realy hot and that in a short period of time let's say maxx time I had the welder running was 20 seconds and I was feeliing the heat come of of it. I was then feeling the components wich one was giving of the heat and it was to hot to keep your finger on it.
The 330R resistor is part of the drive circuit for the contactor and gas valve, I've circled it in red above. If it's getting really hot then there is too much current passing through it, which suggests to me that the IT46 triac might be faulty. Looking at the rear of the PCB the IT46 seems to have been replaced at some point (I can see a lot of components that have been changed which is a bit worrying
). Following on from what eddie49 said earlier, it's really good that you managed to find the schematic but it's also really frustrating that they didn't mark any of the components which makes it really difficult to follow. I'm now looking at the FZJ101 pin 5 issue because this should change voltage when you pull the trigger, I can see from the above schematic that the trigger input only goes to FZJ101 pin 5 when the 4 way mode switch is in two of those positions. But again it doesn't indicate on the schematic which switch position relates to which mode. And the symbols on the switch don't really give me a clue either!Looking at the earlier pics it looks like the 4 position switch has been changed as it looks new, has that happened recently?
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The 330R resistor is part of the drive circuit for the contactor and gas valve, I've circled it in red above. If it's getting really hot then there is too much current passing through it, which suggests to me that the IT46 triac might be faulty. Looking at the rear of the PCB the IT46 seems to have been replaced at some point (I can see a lot of components that have been changed which is a bit worrying
Looking at the earlier pics it looks like the 4 position switch has been changed as it looks new, has that happened recently?
No worries i had it out to measure it, but beqause it is an ac transistor i coud not figure out how. It was not solderd at the time of the picture i put it back after.
on the danisch forum where i found the wiring diagram they also had the IT46 marked on one picture
And yes i replaced the switch last week beqause it was very hard to turn but before i did that i wrote down the collors of the cables and the nr of the pin was on. I the. Took it of and compared the old to the new switch if it had the same internal conections and the same positions and it did.
Picture of the old potentiometers and the switch the pin on the switch that are bent to the outside where not in use.
Middle ones that are in use are A and B
1/3 bridged brown
2 bleu
4 white
7 bleu white
8 red white
A black
B green
I am going to take the pcb out of the box and mark on photo where they go to
Middle ones that are in use are A and B
1/3 bridged brown
2 bleu
4 white
7 bleu white
8 red white
A black
B green
I am going to take the pcb out of the box and mark on photo where they go to
Yes i had to to a repair on this to... the bleu wire was broken loose but no other wires where loose . the white one was wobbeling on the back but still in place the copper eye on the back was loose and pulling on the track. Coud not save it so had to put in a little piece of pink cable to repair it...
First picture: pcb from above with the wires showing their position
Second and third picture: from switch how it is hooked up now
Fourth picture Pcb from underside wit dots in the collor of the cable it connects to,
note orange dot = brown wire, i coud not select brown to mark it
Mode 1 on switch connects pin A to pin 1/3 or black to brown (pin 1and 3 are bridged)
Mode 2 on switch connects pin A to pin 2 or black to bleu
Mode 3 on switch connects pin A to pin 3/1or black to brown (pin 3 and 1 are bridged)
And also connects pin B to pin 7 or green to bleu white
Mode 4 on switch connects pin A to pin 4 or black to white
And pin B to pin 8 or green to red white.
First picture: pcb from above with the wires showing their position
Second and third picture: from switch how it is hooked up now
Fourth picture Pcb from underside wit dots in the collor of the cable it connects to,
note orange dot = brown wire, i coud not select brown to mark it
Mode 1 on switch connects pin A to pin 1/3 or black to brown (pin 1and 3 are bridged)
Mode 2 on switch connects pin A to pin 2 or black to bleu
Mode 3 on switch connects pin A to pin 3/1or black to brown (pin 3 and 1 are bridged)
And also connects pin B to pin 7 or green to bleu white
Mode 4 on switch connects pin A to pin 4 or black to white
And pin B to pin 8 or green to red white.
Ok, just to discount any possible problem with the switch wiring I think it would be good to check that the trigger signal is getting as far as the 4 way switch. That would confirm that the TIL111 in that part of the circuit is ok and then really it is either a switch problem or the FZJ101. The schematic shows a 1k8 resistor (circled in red), I've also circled it on your PCB but on yours it is a 1k2 (1200 ohms) resistor looking at the colours (brown -red -red), but that's not important. Reassemble the welder again and then put your meter on DC volts, red probe to red dot where I've circled and black probe to black dot. I would expect this voltage to be close to 0v with the trigger released and 15v with the trigger pressed. Also if you could measure the voltage on the left TIL111, pins 4 and 5 (as marked in yellow). Again, DC volts on your meter, red probe to pin 5 and black probe to pin 4. I would expect this voltage to be 15v with the trigger released and 0v with the trigger pressed (so the opposite way round from the resistor test). I shouldn't matter what position your 4 way switch is in for these tests so just leave it where it was yesterday.
Sorry for all these tests, it would be so much easier if it was on the bench in front of me! I will also have a good look at your switch pics and will let you know if I see anything.
Now that you've posted the switch wiring I've gone back and looked again at the datasheet posted earlier for the FZJ101. I don't think pin 5 is the input, it looks like a reset function. Pin 14 looks to be the input. I'll keep looking at the switch pics, but it would still be worth carrying out the tests as I mentioned above. Just ignore pin 5 / pin 14 for now as they're not relevant.
I dont think there will be any problem with the switch there was nothing to see on there that they were resolderd. The bleu wire was the only one that was loose and it was broken of on top of the board. The wires are bent very much when installing everything in the box.
Is called the local electronics dealer and he can deliver the fzj101 so if i need it i can get it close to me
Ok i wil do the measurements tomorow. And i dont mind doing al the measurements, its something i like to do and i do learn from it.
And i realy appriciate the help and time you have put in to it What price did you get quoted for the FZJ101? We also need to think about the IT46 triac, these appear to be obsolete but a quick search shows equivalents that are only a few euros. I notice on the pic of the danish PCB that the IT46 is mounted the opposite way but that PCB is different to yours (components in different places). From the data I can find on the IT46 you have yours installed correctly.
Looking at the circuit diagram, the wiring of the mode switch pole to the left of the FZJ101 shows the same link on position "1" as in position "3". Position "3" on the front panel is pretty clearly marked for Spot welding, whereby the welder is latched-on for a predetermined time and then automatically released. Therefore, I am now sure that position "1" - marked on the front panel with a continuous line - is the Latched or 4T mode. So checking for trigger on/trigger off voltages should be done with the Mode switch in position "2".
It would still be worth getting an answer to the question about whether everything ( wirefeed, contactor, gas valve ) always comes on with the power-on switch, in all four positions of the Mode switch.
It would still be worth getting an answer to the question about whether everything ( wirefeed, contactor, gas valve ) always comes on with the power-on switch, in all four positions of the Mode switch.
On the FZJ101, the J inputs are pins 3 and 4, the K inputs are 12 and 13, the Q outputs are 9 and 10, the Not-Q outputs are 6 and 7.
The Clock input is pin 14 ( triggers on the low-going edge ). The Set input is pin 11, and the Reset is pin 5 ( both active low, regardless of Clock ).
The Clock input is pin 14 ( triggers on the low-going edge ). The Set input is pin 11, and the Reset is pin 5 ( both active low, regardless of Clock ).
well it was 69€ to much for it. but he had to order it from a external suplier. i found one online for 12€ if we need it i will order it there. i have found an other online seller selling them for 129€ that woud be crazy it woud be better to just buy a replacement pcb.
the triac woud not be a problem either local sller has loads of them on his website have not realy looked in to them wil check if he has the IT46. price is around 2€ for a triac
and yes the one on the danisch forum is installed in an other position as mine i put i back like it was did not bend the legs.
is there a wy to test it?
hello Eddie. oh ok i just had a look on the internet and now i now what 4T and 2T mean neat function.
shoud i do the test i did today for the torch again on position 2?
when i first connected the pcb back to the welder and started testing only the wire feed woud come on when i switched the power switch to ON. then i cleaned up the messy (repair) on the til111 and then the contactor and gas valve came on when i switched the power to ON so now everything comes on and if there was a wire and a bottle of argon on it you coud weld with it i gues. i found out there was something wrong with the till111's beqause when i touched one of them the contactor and gas valve came on. so there must have been a bad solder joint or something.
my grandpa told me it woud still weld but it did not stop anymore only when you switched the ON/OFF switch to of it woud stop so i dont think he had it on latched mode...
