Alloy grade for fuel tank

[robdxr2]

Hi

I've got to order some alloy sheets to make some tops for work benches at my work, now what I was thinking was how convenient it would be if it's the correct grade to make a fuel tank out of as well and the correct rods to tig up the corners as well

What grade and thickness would people recommend

Cheers

 

[Richard.]

1050 2mm I make tanks from
1050 2.4 rod to weld them with

 

[mike 109444]

As the original question got answered then hoping this is not a post hijack. It is also a similar query.
Having a rotten tank (pic 1) I had set about making a replacement from steel (1.2mm) but having done so (pics 2 onward) and then setting it to one side (the car is taking longer than expected....) I am finding it's rusting away quite nicely and having done some googling I see that tanks were made from a type of steel that had a lead content/coating (Terne steel plate) now known as unobtainum..
So may start again using ally. But due to the need to form the deep wells (don't think the beads should be an issue) then having to get the corners welded up what grade of (2mm) ally would suit the hammer forming/stretching I will need to do and also the subsequent welding?

 

[Richard.]

As the original question got answered then hoping this is not a post hijack. It is also a similar query.
Having a rotten tank (pic 1) I had set about making a replacement from steel (1.2mm) but having done so (pics 2 onward) and then setting it to one side (the car is taking longer than expected....) I am finding it's rusting away quite nicely and having done some googling I see that tanks were made from a type of steel that had a lead content/coating (Terne steel plate) now known as unobtainum..
So may start again using ally. But due to the need to form the deep wells (don't think the beads should be an issue) then having to get the corners welded up what grade of (2mm) ally would suit the hammer forming/stretching I will need to do and also the subsequent welding?

Go with 1050. 2mm is a nice thickness.
Use the same for filler

 

[AndersK]

1050 is the easiest grade to work with but don't forget to anneal it every now and then in the areas where you put the most shape.
In that piece, the corners.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I am finding it's rusting away quite nicely

It may not be too late to salvage what you've /madedone so far. Would cleaning out the tank with some of the Frost products/methods, then going with internal coating(s) do the job? I suppose it'll depend on how far gone you think they are.....

https://www.frost.co.uk/auto-maintenance/automotive-tanks-products.html

 

[mike 109444]

Will try 1050 then. Should not drive the neighbors nut (think Rank move intro ) when I hammer it out like the steel.
SBF did think about getting it cad or zinc coated but just imagined it coming back all twisted or costing ££'s. The original is like a sieve and the copy is just surface rusting but time is not a healer and I am sure if I finish it it would be sometime before it gets used and once sealed would be a pain to clear out.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

SBF did think about getting it cad or zinc coated but just imagined it coming back all twisted or costing ££'s. The original is like a sieve and the copy is just surface rusting but time is not a healer and I am sure if I finish it it would be sometime before it gets used and once sealed would be a pain to clear out.

Looking at the "How to" in my link, I understood that the sealer was drained out once the process was followed, leaving a corrosion resistant coating on the tank interior. I know that Por15 paint doesn't have a good reputation with some, but this stuff must be different - and worth a try rather than remake another tank?