One for any saw experts.

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I have in my collection of saws one with a odd blade.



It has a definite curve to the rear end of the blade.



Looking at the teeth it doesn't' look like the teeth have bean re cut. As the troughs are even in depth.
When a true edge is held against the curve starts about 4" from the end.

Any one know why this blade was made this way and what benefits does it give?

 

[gordon stephenson]

Maybe just designed to slow you down a bit at the end of a stroke?

 

[pedrobedro]

I don't know why it's curved but I had one similar which got left behind in a house move years ago. I thought probably to stop you running off the end of the blade and catching the handle if you are sawing with the whole length.

 

[Parm]

I think it may have to do with getting the saw going on the first cut.

That saw looks like it’s quite long with coarse teeth.

The heel of the blade is deeper, making it more stiff to start the initial cut. Also it’s quite likely you won’t go to the end so the teeth will be in better condition than the rest of the saw and will be sharper thus making it easier to use

Just my guess

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

That saw looks like it’s quite long with coarse teeth.

Total length is 24"
Blade length is 22"
7TPI.

 

[Parm]

Total length is 24"
Blade length is 22"
7TPI.

Yep that’s a big saw

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Yep that’s a big saw

Got bigger.
Got smaller.



The Spear & Jackson at the back is 36" blade length at 4TPI

The Gentleman Back saw is a 5" blade with 16 TPI

 

[Migmac]

Could it be for ripping?

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

@Migmac
The Panel saw with the curved blade is a Ripping Panel saw. The cut of the teeth tell me that.

 

[Migmac]

Will the curve somehow help to clear the teeth of saw dust

 

[500e]

Pleas explain to someone what is the RPS used for as someone who hates wood nasty dirty stuff only ever heard of ripping good yarns

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

@500e

Rip saws have the teeth cut so they act like small chisels to cut along the grain

A Cross cuts has the teeth cut to cut across the grain

 

[brightspark]

probably been sharpened that many times and they only sharpened the blunt teeth times money

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

@brightspark

probably been sharpened that many times and they only sharpened the blunt teeth times money

I thought that, but the curve is uniform from the start to the heal of the blade.
Unless the whole blade was done the teeth toughs are even, as well as the teeth lengths.

I have a 1888 saw, made in Bristol, the blade has been sharpened that the middle teeth are 3/4" lower than the ends. But the curve is the length of the blade.

 

[500e]

Thanks AV, I learn every day

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Thanks AV, I learn every day

As my dad used to say:
A day with out learning something is a day wasted.

 

[pedrobedro]

I remember the old saw I inherited used to have the logo "wartime handle and screws" stamped into the handle as well. The Gentleman back saw is what we would call a dovetail saw, very fine teeth.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

@pedrobedro

There are traditionally 3 saws to the Back Saw Family.





The lower one is a Tennon saw.
The upper one is a Dovetail saw.
The one I posted is a Gentle man Back saw.

All have fine teeth, and a reinforcing bar on top of the blade.

Good Back saws have the reinforcing bar cut into the handle, cheep ones do not.
In the past traditionally back saws had the handle end teeth, up to the end of the sweep og the handle, cut backwards to allow the starting of the cut. They cut on the back stroke.

Takes a bit of getting used to, when you first use them.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

@brightspark


I just tool this, here you can see the curve starts at the base of the handle.

 

[Keith 66]

It looks like an old Diston D7 Rip saw though may be by another maker, Check the brass handle nuts, one will have a name & trade mark in it. Earlier ones were made in Philadelphia & are said to be better quality. It would have been made straight. There is no secret to its curved edge, the bit near your hand sees little use so doesnt get sharpened much, the middle bit sees most of the work so gets sharpened more. A century or more of hand sharpening will see that it gets curved, most guys who sharpen their own saws would file the tops of the teeth so they were straight.
Some of those old Distons (if it is one) are worth more than you would think.
This site is a useful reference for identification,http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/index.html,