Milkstone for rust removal

[ronan]

Just seen the video below, Milkstone, seems to be good stuff, anyone try it ?

http://www.osmonds.ie/index.php/component/mijoshop/product/67-milk-stone-remover

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Just seen the video below, Milkstone, seems to be good stuff, anyone try it ?

http://www.osmonds.ie/index.php/component/mijoshop/product/67-milk-stone-remover

Dilute Phosphoric acid, I think it's the active ingredient in the Jenolite treatments.

 

[Ian James]

Yes phosphoric acid is the ingredient of milkstone remover in its raw form it will eat aluminium away in no time do not let it come in to contact with other chemicals or any skin as it Burn's very quickly and can give off very nasty gasses

 

[Hopefuldave]

I buy 80+ % concentrated off EvilBay by the gallon, helluva lot cheaper than little bottles of rust remover in the DIY sheds, takes limescale out the lav pretty sharpish too

I prefer electrolysis for rust removal though, unlike acids it doesn't eat sound iron/steel.

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[Ian James]

We use it at work and buy it 25 litres at a time I had never considered using it for rust and paint removal knowing how corrosive it is

 

[steviec_lj]

I buy 80+ % concentrated off EvilBay by the gallon, helluva lot cheaper than little bottles of rust remover in the DIY sheds, takes limescale out the lav pretty sharpish too

I prefer electrolysis for rust removal though, unlike acids it doesn't eat sound iron/steel.

Dave H. (the other one)

I was about to ask what sort of concentration rate to purchase..

Next question is what sort of dilution should I be looking at, I’ve a few vehicle patches to treat, and some removable parts at a later date..

 

[MattF]

We use it at work and buy it 25 litres at a time I had never considered using it for rust and paint removal knowing how corrosive it is

Phosphoric, by all accounts, should only attack the oxidised metal & not sound metal, so it should only be detrimental to the rust. It'll still want neutralising though, else washing down after use.

 

[graffian]

Phosphoric acid doesn't eat the sound steel.
I have tried milkstone remover, I used to get it free. From what I remember it left scum that had to be
scrubbed off. The milkstone remover was red and you couldn't see what was happening, but other than that it was fine. I stopped using it when I cleaned something and everything around rusted and cleaned parts wouldn't stop rusting. Even after a caustic wash. It had hydrochloric acid in it, so make sure it hasn't
got hydrochloric acid in it.

If your looking for a cheap rust remover try molasses. I used molasses to clean a few hundredweight of
very rusty scaffold fitting a few years ago. It did a great job. I left the drum of it outside and it's been rained on
for a few years now, and is a lot more dilute. I was recently given a bundle of large old spanners that had been left
out side for years, I chucked them in the molasses a month ago, I pulled them out yesterday and all the rust is gone;-)

 

[Turbo]

Phosphoric acid doesn't eat the sound steel.

I would have to disagree there. I tried milk stone remover to clean rusty items & it was quite slow, that slow that I forgot about a few bolts I was cleaning. When I looked a week later the bolts were eaten away by the acid and rendered scrap. Parts of the bolt shank were only half their original thickness!

I think I'll stick to electrolysis, it works & is 100% safe!

 

[Seadog]

I would have to disagree there. I tried milk stone remover to clean rusty items & it was quite slow, that slow that I forgot about a few bolts I was cleaning. When I looked a week later the bolts were eaten away by the acid and rendered scrap.

But milk stone cleaner is Hydrochloric acid NOT phosphoric acid. I've used phosphoric many times and left items in for a week or more, it does not touch the good metal. I was using a concentration of around 25%. I also have 99.9% acid which I've also used without problems.

 

[rtcosic]

I have bought 'Milkstone Remover' from the local agricultural merchants.

The brand I buy is Phosphoric Acid.

Some brands may also contain some Hydrochloric Acid.

Some brands are methane sulphonic acid.

You do not want the brand with Hydrochloric and most definitely not methane sulphonic acid as you will have the problem highlighted by @Turbo.

Use it at the dilution recommended on the container.

Not all Milkstone Removers are born equal.

 

[Seadog]

Not all Milkstone Removers are born equal.

I didn't research it, I just used info already on the post. I'll store that away for future reference

 

[Ian James]

Milk stone remover is a very broad turm discription generally they all contain phosphoric acid in veriouse concentrations some times with a additional complimenting acid attached are two pics of products we have on hand at the mo

 

[rtcosic]

Milk stone remover is a very broad turm discription generally they all contain phosphoric acid in veriouse concentrations some times with a additional complimenting acid attached are two pics of products we have on hand at the mo

Wow - 3% Nitric Acid!

Like the Spanish Inquisition - No-one expects Nitric Acid.

That'll teach you to read the label.

 

[Ian James]

Wow - 3% Nitric Acid!

Like the Spanish Inquisition - No-one expects Nitric Acid.

That'll teach you to read the label.

Yep the circlopro WSA is a combined milkstone remover and circulation cleaner were as the other is purely a milkstone remover disigned for circulating through milking parlours

 

[Turbo]

The one I used has phosphoric acid, I wasn't aware there were other acids present. I'll get a better look at the can later on & maybe get the msds for it.

 

[Farside]

I've been using a 20 to 30% solution of Phosphoric Acid for years as a rust treatment. Normally, I brush it on, leave it 24 hours and wash it off.
The last bracketry I treated, I brushed it on and let it dry then painted it as was, just to see.
Sofa, so good.