bigbadbugga
Member
- Messages
- 1,005
I'm pretty much decided now on either a Boxford or a Harrison. Just got to save the rest of the cash and make some space in the workshop
- Thread starter bigbadbugga
- Start date
EVguru
Member
- Messages
- 16
Myfords are expensive for a very simple reason. They were very clever in their marketing post war and bought up most of the Model Engineering magazines. If anything was shown being machined, it was being machined on a Myford.
I've used Myfords and Boxfords and now have a Harrison L5. If I was doing only model engineering, I'd probably search out a good Myford. If wanting to do heavier work (it's a rule that most small lathes are called upon to do work that's really too big for them) it would be the Boxford. If you have the room, then a full sized 'industrial' lathe is the way to go, they're much better value. I've occasionally seen them for free, like at the moment when scrap prices are through the floor. I was once offered a Dean Smith & Grace lathe in almost unused condition for free, the only problem being that it weighed 2 tons and wouldn't fit in a single garage.
The Harrison L5 is great in having a short taper (L00) chuck fitting and will pass a bar of well over an inch through the spindle.
If you can transport a lathe yourself then there are real bargains in bigger lathes on the like of ebay.
Also try www.projectmachinery.co.uk
I've used Myfords and Boxfords and now have a Harrison L5. If I was doing only model engineering, I'd probably search out a good Myford. If wanting to do heavier work (it's a rule that most small lathes are called upon to do work that's really too big for them) it would be the Boxford. If you have the room, then a full sized 'industrial' lathe is the way to go, they're much better value. I've occasionally seen them for free, like at the moment when scrap prices are through the floor. I was once offered a Dean Smith & Grace lathe in almost unused condition for free, the only problem being that it weighed 2 tons and wouldn't fit in a single garage.
The Harrison L5 is great in having a short taper (L00) chuck fitting and will pass a bar of well over an inch through the spindle.
If you can transport a lathe yourself then there are real bargains in bigger lathes on the like of ebay.
Also try www.projectmachinery.co.uk
Not all of them, the earlier l5's had a small diameter mandrel nose proprietory to them, I think 1.75", harrison later went to a 2.25" large through bore threaded nose on the earlier L5A's, then finally on the later L5a's/140 series went to the L00 fitting.
Ive had the first one, got the 2.25" currently and it came with a L00 faceplate when someone had made the same dimension...
Id rather have had the L00 nose but assumed the later l5a's were all L00 when I seen the faceplate in one of the sellers pictures, only to get a nasty surprise when after it arrived on the transport and was unloaded, I dismounted the chuck. Which is why Im bothering to point this out again.
Ive had the first one, got the 2.25" currently and it came with a L00 faceplate when someone had made the same dimension...
Id rather have had the L00 nose but assumed the later l5a's were all L00 when I seen the faceplate in one of the sellers pictures, only to get a nasty surprise when after it arrived on the transport and was unloaded, I dismounted the chuck. Which is why Im bothering to point this out again.
bigbadbugga
Member
- Messages
- 1,005
thanks for the link, I'll have a look at some of the big lathes on ebay. I would be looking at a machine capable of skimming brake drums and disks as well as smaller stuff.
Space is not a problem as my workshop/garage is 12M x 7M
If space isn't a problem go for the biggest you can find.
The extra weight and stiffness of industrial machine tools makes a hell of a difference.
If you want to turn discs and drums you'll probably want something with a gap bed, which I believe rules out the boxfords.
You can always do small jobs on a big lathe but you can't do really big jobs on a small lathe.
The extra weight and stiffness of industrial machine tools makes a hell of a difference.
If you want to turn discs and drums you'll probably want something with a gap bed, which I believe rules out the boxfords.
You can always do small jobs on a big lathe but you can't do really big jobs on a small lathe.
Got one of the very few single phase Harrison 140's with Norton gear box, seen some without along with the rounded top predecessor 11". Both pure metric machines many threads you can just knock the lever out and wind back any where and re engage also anywhere, though instructions tell otherwise. Imperial will be different.
Should come with a Burnerd 11" 4 jaw chuck L00 fitting. plus gap bed. Power feeds to cross slide and saddle.
When new the old pre 1966 Harrisons were around 40 to 50% dearer than Colchesters and better made.
On the Boxford piccy thats a Dickson tool post, very expensive i gave a much larger one away with grease still on. The ****** ones aint too bad.
I would argue the fact that Myfords are looked after if non industrial, should have seen my last one, fit for nothing except scrap three years after full regrind. Essentially mine didnt perform like any Myford but still took an eternity to do something = many hours excess use for simple job that takes 3 mins on Harrison above. It takes its toll on wear!
Bearings were the tin things but made phosphur bronze jobbies, a right pain to scrape in and line up.
Wouldnt buy anything on ebay without personally viewing first. Most are junk that dealers cant get rid of or commanding such a high price.
Should come with a Burnerd 11" 4 jaw chuck L00 fitting. plus gap bed. Power feeds to cross slide and saddle.
When new the old pre 1966 Harrisons were around 40 to 50% dearer than Colchesters and better made.
On the Boxford piccy thats a Dickson tool post, very expensive i gave a much larger one away with grease still on. The ****** ones aint too bad.
I would argue the fact that Myfords are looked after if non industrial, should have seen my last one, fit for nothing except scrap three years after full regrind. Essentially mine didnt perform like any Myford but still took an eternity to do something = many hours excess use for simple job that takes 3 mins on Harrison above. It takes its toll on wear!
Bearings were the tin things but made phosphur bronze jobbies, a right pain to scrape in and line up.
Wouldnt buy anything on ebay without personally viewing first. Most are junk that dealers cant get rid of or commanding such a high price.
graffian
Seer unto the end of his beard
- Messages
- 3,827
- Location
- gatwick
has to be some multiple of the leadscrew. The answer for threading is a CVA, it has a clutch for the leadscrew box, just wind the crossslide out[onto the threading stop] and wack the leadscrew in reverse, then take another cut. Wonder why more makers didn't do that?
A real menance and don't like to work hard
Very true. Don't assume a barn full of lathes is anthing other then a scrap dealer whose realised that with a lorry and some lifting gear he can be given, free of charge, a large amount of his stock. Most companies just want shot of old big heavy machinery that no other company will buy.
Personally I'm saving up for a house with a big enough workshop I can take advantage of one of those free (un shagged) industrial lathes
shadrack shamus
Member
- Messages
- 5
When buying a lathe always go by condition and not age. At work we've got a harrison m300 which is awsome cos its been looked after and also an harrison l5 which is suppose to be a good machine but ours is worn and knackerd its fit only for landfill. A new chinese lathe will always be better than a worn out myford 7 but if you get a good one nowt can match them for ease fo use and reliability. and remember nothing's cheap if you dont want it especially if its a piece of old junk. Just a bit of wisdom.
