- Thread starter Migmac
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gaz1
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id have to agree with kayos diverter to diverter motor not engaging if the hot water is working and not the heating id be looking down the line of electric power through each system of calling for heat for central heating side of it
on another note if diverter valve is playing up check the nearest radiator as that one will become warm/hot whilst hot water is running
id be looking more at those relays for going faulty
quick question does the ch pump start up when you select it ?
i believe boiler fan should start up as well both for domestic as well as ch side of it
when you say pump is working fine? aye pump starts, but is the pump actually spinning? could it be that the motor is running, and if the spindle was loose, so when it heats up the pump impellor slips and not going round, so the system is looking for pressure, because the motor is running, but not getting pressure, so shuts down?
don't know the configuration of the pump, but one other thing to check.
don't know the configuration of the pump, but one other thing to check.
Kayos
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Good point, went a Morco yesterday, pump sounded like an old cement mixer and wasn’t creating enough pressure to trip the pressure switch. Boiler wouldn’t light but wouldn’t fault either
If not already done I would check the hot water flow switch. If they stick or not fitted correct the boiler will stay in HW mode and keep the boiler cycling on stat as heat not getting getting away. HW takes priority over heating. Boiler can't do both at once.
To double check pumps. You could always swap heads and wires to suit. If fault changes and you loose HW then you will know if pumps are good. Also the pump manifolds can become blocked or restricted too with poor water. Also can get blockage/restriction on heating return pipework around where expansion vessel Ts in.
The grant vortex is probably one of the best and simplest oil combi out there. Normally very easy to fault find on if your there and have the right tools.
Migmac
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Flow switch is ok
Migmac
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Pump was checked and appeared to be in good working order, good suggestion swapping over. The vortex has been fine up until now, this is the first headache we have had with it. Had bits go but like you say it was easy to identify what the fault was
If it is the twin pump grundoss manifold. Pretty sure there is a flap.(non return valve on heating side that shuts so hot water pump doesn't draw cold water from heating circuit when on. Have had it stuck before causing same fault you describe. Ch pump run but no circulation.
Migmac
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Non return valves have been changed. Grant themselves suggested that was the problem, old ones were still working fine
A quick way to check a pump is to remove vent screw and check is spinning. Also put a bit of resistance against the centre of spinning Alan screw with small screw driver and see if it stalls. If weak they will stall with little resistance but sound and look to be running ok. You could compare against HW pump. You will get a little bit of water leaking while you do this. The impellers also clog up on a dirty system which should be obvious when removing the pump head. Also if you have the heads off check the pump manifold/ body for blockage or restriction on flow and return. Seen them blocked back to pump valves.
Dont think there is a diverter valve on that model so it's pretty basic and normally easy to fault find on. It takes its heat from same place as HW with just the pumps and temp control stats changinging over.
Also check to see if it's cycling on the CH stat by letting boiler cool down and turn on with it set to min and turn up after it cuts out to see if it clicks back on. Also follow CH thermostat file to where it attaches and feel temperature of pipe. If very hot, cut of on stat and pump is running then all controls are good. Then only can be pump or restricted/blocked flow or return.
Is yours two completely separate pumps with bodies or two pump heads on a combined body?
Running out of ideas. Lol
Always hard to advise when not at the job.
Hope you get it sorted soon.
Dont think there is a diverter valve on that model so it's pretty basic and normally easy to fault find on. It takes its heat from same place as HW with just the pumps and temp control stats changinging over.
Also check to see if it's cycling on the CH stat by letting boiler cool down and turn on with it set to min and turn up after it cuts out to see if it clicks back on. Also follow CH thermostat file to where it attaches and feel temperature of pipe. If very hot, cut of on stat and pump is running then all controls are good. Then only can be pump or restricted/blocked flow or return.
Is yours two completely separate pumps with bodies or two pump heads on a combined body?
Running out of ideas. Lol
Always hard to advise when not at the job.
Hope you get it sorted soon.
angellonewolf
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as above im not to sure i would like them playing with a working system just to retrive parts that was not needed
if they where to do that surely you would remove the part fitted and the time of fitting if it did not work not for you to wait in so they strip the system again after getting it working
if they where to do that surely you would remove the part fitted and the time of fitting if it did not work not for you to wait in so they strip the system again after getting it working
Migmac
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Ok, everything is fine. House is warm, shame the outside temp is 8-10 oC. All that bits got swapped over easily. The flipping Grasslin timer was goosed. Electrician tested everything and all was fine, worried, checked it all again and this time a fault was present, left it and checked it again - no fault, checked again - fault. Timer disabled and ran perfectly and still running perfectly
