- Thread starter rcx132
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julianf
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Im no expert, but id say get the roughest pad you can, and work along from that. So long as it does not mark the surface irretrievably, then a rougher pad is always going to be quicker.
Just make sure you can go back to a finish you are happy with with smoother pads thereafter.
My DA had all the hooks worn away. I got some hook and loop velcro off ebay for cheap, and cut and stuck it. The branded hook and loop backing pads were about 1/2 what i paid for the sander.
Just make sure you can go back to a finish you are happy with with smoother pads thereafter.
My DA had all the hooks worn away. I got some hook and loop velcro off ebay for cheap, and cut and stuck it. The branded hook and loop backing pads were about 1/2 what i paid for the sander.
I would replace the pad with a hook and loop they cost a few quid. The main benefit for a low volume user is the ability to keep part used disc and use again.
If you've not used one before here are a couple of tips.
In random mode don't run it up until it's in contact with the surface or it will spin up faster and will potentially mark as it will almost be running in fixed mode.
When changing pads get in to the habit of flipping that lever out of the way or unplugging, the knurled locking disc does a really good job of battering your fingers if you accidently press the lever with them in the way. Doesn't do any harm but it does scare the life out of you and make the end of your fingers feel numb.
If you've not used one before here are a couple of tips.
In random mode don't run it up until it's in contact with the surface or it will spin up faster and will potentially mark as it will almost be running in fixed mode.
When changing pads get in to the habit of flipping that lever out of the way or unplugging, the knurled locking disc does a really good job of battering your fingers if you accidently press the lever with them in the way. Doesn't do any harm but it does scare the life out of you and make the end of your fingers feel numb.
Wallace
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Vibration, noise and efficiency improve as you move up the quality range along with the price as you are moving into the professional market. I have a lovely little 50/75mm CP pistol DA I bought and it’s fantastic on air consumption. I’ve been so impressed with it I will buy the matching sander this year and look to CP for any other replacement air tools in future.
rcx132
Philip
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- London, UK
OK. I'll test mine soon then. My electric sander was getting nowhere at all.
that one looks like a fake Sealey one, shouldn't be too bad on the hands. he is right about the dual action adjuster thing wacking your fingers by accident, it blooming hurts. I used my sealey one every day for 3 years in a bodyshop and now occasionally and it shows no signs of dying anytime soon.
DA is dual action sander, meaning it can spin round like a normal sander would or be set to oscillate which is the mode you will use it in for bodywork to feather edges better.
I would also opt for a hook and loop system over self adhesive, but I would recommend getting a foam back pad over a hard backed one as they are move forging on irregular shapes. when you get onto lesser grit papers like 240/400 you will find you can stop sanding and give them a wack to knock the built up dust off them to get some more life out of them.
DA is dual action sander, meaning it can spin round like a normal sander would or be set to oscillate which is the mode you will use it in for bodywork to feather edges better.
I would also opt for a hook and loop system over self adhesive, but I would recommend getting a foam back pad over a hard backed one as they are move forging on irregular shapes. when you get onto lesser grit papers like 240/400 you will find you can stop sanding and give them a wack to knock the built up dust off them to get some more life out of them.
rcx132
Philip
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Yup looks identical to the Sealey SA7/S.
I think it used to be that companies like Sealey would commission factories in China to make a product for them, but it looks like these days the factories in China develop their own products and companies like SIP and Sealey just bulk buy them with their name on them. E.g. my mini SGS compressor looks identical to a Machine Mart one, and SGS, when I spoke to their owners (don't ask) they didn't know a thing about compressors so I doubt they designed or specced their compressors or anything other than import them and had the factory but on their logo and colour scheme.
graffian
Seer unto the end of his beard
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We had a paint shop that liked to stock expensive stuff, they sold Desoutter, Hutchins, MIR and Dynabrade.
Often saw the bloke demonstating how nice the Desoutter was, people usually headed off to brown brothers
and bought an atlasC or CP DA for a fraction of the price.
A DA isn't really suitable for stripping a panel. If you have small areas to strip lock the DA and wizz the paint off, but
it's a bit slow for stripping a panel. I used to strip a lot of stuff with a 7" grinder with a fibre disc. DAs aren't for
shaping filler either.
Another happy Stickit user here, but hookit wasn't around as far as I know when I started and when it did appear the
discs were twice the price.
Often saw the bloke demonstating how nice the Desoutter was, people usually headed off to brown brothers
and bought an atlasC or CP DA for a fraction of the price.
A DA isn't really suitable for stripping a panel. If you have small areas to strip lock the DA and wizz the paint off, but
it's a bit slow for stripping a panel. I used to strip a lot of stuff with a 7" grinder with a fibre disc. DAs aren't for
shaping filler either.
Another happy Stickit user here, but hookit wasn't around as far as I know when I started and when it did appear the
discs were twice the price.
rcx132
Philip
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- 3,034
- Location
- London, UK
graffian
Seer unto the end of his beard
- Messages
- 3,809
- Location
- gatwick
Nope a plain sanding disc. Those sorts of disc were either not around or expensive. I stopped painting
cars around 1990 and anything I have done since I use what stuff I still have. Those discs look good.
These are the things, your only use the outside and it's not long before they clog. So you cut them down
and stick them on a small grinder after using them on the big fellah. But you don't want to take any metal
off, those discs will go though a panel.
By locking the DA I mean twist the knurled weight around so the sander rotates.
You can hit the paint gently with sander and it will sand it off, it's a sander rather than an orbital.
But the DA doesn't have a lot of grunt so it's not a way of doing a large area.
cars around 1990 and anything I have done since I use what stuff I still have. Those discs look good.
These are the things, your only use the outside and it's not long before they clog. So you cut them down
and stick them on a small grinder after using them on the big fellah. But you don't want to take any metal
off, those discs will go though a panel.
By locking the DA I mean twist the knurled weight around so the sander rotates.
You can hit the paint gently with sander and it will sand it off, it's a sander rather than an orbital.
But the DA doesn't have a lot of grunt so it's not a way of doing a large area.
