Lathe refurb question.

[Fiji]

I'm just starting tidying my old lathe up (i'll put some pics up later). The dials on it are a bit manky, faded, marked etc, I will at some point either replace or convert to digital but wondered if, in the meantime there is any way of polishing / cleaning them up without obliterating the engraved markings ?
This is the umpteenth time I've started this and every time I have to put the thing back together to use it so here's hoping.

 

[gaz1]

i believe it would be best to post ics up then members can further advise at moment we are needing to see what shape and how they are looking at moment not even i can say how to clean them without seeing how they apear already

 

[Fiji]

Sorry that took so long ! The lathe is a 1958 Hercus A. Main problem is tarnishing on dials, no rust as such. Engraving isn't that deep and I don't want to use anything too abrasive that will erase the markings. Thinking maybe a light scotchbrite ?

 

[grim_d]

Steel wool?

 

[God mode restorations]

You can get them looking like new with basic tooling. As mentioned steel wool with metal polish. Or a soft wire wheel in a drill. Done loads of them.

 

[addjunkie]

Try metal polish, similar to you would use on chrome.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

0000 steel wool + Autosol polish = job jobbed

 

[Fiji]

Many thanks. Will give that a wiz.

 

[MattF]

Nylon pan scourers, wire wool etc. I use paraffin/kerosene as the fluid with those. Personally, I prefer using the nylon scourers. You end up with a lot of wire fragments using wire wool.

 

[Kram]

As above but I found that was not enough to make them readable. I used a blade to clean the engraved lines before a red sharpie to add contrast. Second time I gave a coat of clear lacquer as it tarnished very quick.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Mine went in the electrolosis tank did an excellent job quick rub with scotchpad then cleaned off with spirits and oiled lifted all the crud

 

[Hood]

Sorry that took so long ! The lathe is a 1958 Hercus A. Main problem is tarnishing on dials, no rust as such. Engraving isn't that deep and I don't want to use anything too abrasive that will erase the markings. Thinking maybe a light scotchbrite ?View attachment 126931 View attachment 126932

That lathe is interesting, the arrangement on the saddle is very similar to a lathe I had years ago, also the gearbox. It was much bigger than yours being around 15 or 16" swing but I have never been able to find a make, will have to have a search and see if Hercus did one around about that size.

 

[God mode restorations]

I got board today so polished the hand wheels.

 

[addjunkie]

Looks great, but does ot make swarf

 

[God mode restorations]

Looks great, but does ot make swarf

It will very soon. Just got to fit new motor and switch. And a couple of odds and ends then be making swarf

 

[addjunkie]

It will very soon. Just got to fit new motor and switch. And a couple of odds and ends then be making swarf

Thats good, was worried you had morfed in to a machine tool polisher

 

[God mode restorations]

Thats good, was worried you had morfed in to a machine tool polisher

Lol. No. I got in to a rut of total boardum today.

 

[God mode restorations]

Mine look a little different to the quality of finish on this monarch lathe. Unfortunately not mine.

 

[gaz1]

i dont see any reference to the model of lathe you have but its a South Bend 9" Model A "Precision" 1952-version with an "English-threads" gearbox and rear-drive countershaft. Note that, while much appears to be unaltered in comparison with earlier versions, this lathe has longer, heavier and more robust bed feet. Oddly, during 1947

http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend9-inch/

The 9" South Bend "Workshop" lathe was eventually available in main three forms - and from 1939 (and the introduction of the "Super-finished" spindle and screwcutting gearbox) was know as:
Model A with screwcutting gearbox and power cross feed
Model B with screwcutting by changewheels and power cross feed
Model C with changewheel screwcutting and hand-operated cross feed - this lathe was built from 1935 but its designation as the "Model C" did not happen until 1939, though the term "Model C" is widely applied to all the ordinary pre-1939 9-inch Workshop lathes.
Gap Bed Model in A, B and C form - introduced during 1962.

what i can say is those lathes hold there price well still worth 400.00 + here in the uk

 

[God mode restorations]

i dont see any reference to the model of lathe you have but its a South Bend 9" Model A "Precision" 1952-version with an "English-threads" gearbox and rear-drive countershaft. Note that, while much appears to be unaltered in comparison with earlier versions, this lathe has longer, heavier and more robust bed feet. Oddly, during 1947

http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend9-inch/

The 9" South Bend "Workshop" lathe was eventually available in main three forms - and from 1939 (and the introduction of the "Super-finished" spindle and screwcutting gearbox) was know as:
Model A with screwcutting gearbox and power cross feed
Model B with screwcutting by changewheels and power cross feed
Model C with changewheel screwcutting and hand-operated cross feed - this lathe was built from 1935 but its designation as the "Model C" did not happen until 1939, though the term "Model C" is widely applied to all the ordinary pre-1939 9-inch Workshop lathes.
Gap Bed Model in A, B and C form - introduced during 1962.

what i can say is those lathes hold there price well still worth 400.00 + here in the uk

My lathe is a 1945 Mellor 3.5x20 .
The picture I posted is from a monarch lathe