Stuff you have made today

[gaz1]

not exactly made but ripped out ready for the new steel beam going in

this is for a large bifold window thats going in as back room going to be kitchen and dinning area


we used 2 clarke wheel trolleys to get beam into place before acrows went up on outside had to be done before acrows went in

this mornings photo

danger point where wall can shift and come down on top of you

 

[gaz1]

i cant post all pics on one post it wont let me


job done all thats left is get that beam back in and rebuild the outer wall and inner wall again

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

i cant post all pics on one post it wont let me

View attachment 123394 View attachment 123395 View attachment 123396
job done all thats left is get that beam back in and rebuild the outer wall and inner wall again

Always a nervy moment. Especially on. Big run like that.

Last one was 6.5m and the steel 390 x 320 weighing in just under a tonne. Chap I was working for didn't want the cost of punching holes upstairs supporting properly. He used strong boys instead with the tips supporting to allow clearance for the steel. Very dodgy. And he ignored peoples concerns and pushed on. Didn't enjoy that one bit. He was lucky that time. Could easily have brought the house down. Last job I did for him. Will never work for use or recommend him to anyone.

 

[gaz1]

Always a nervy moment. Especially on. Big run like that.

Last one was 6.5m and the steel 390 x 320 weighing in just under a tonne. Chap I was working for didn't want the cost of punching holes upstairs supporting properly. He used strong boys instead with the tips supporting to allow clearance for the steel. Very dodgy. And he ignored peoples concerns and pushed on. Didn't enjoy that one bit. He was lucky that time. Could easily have brought the house down. Last job I did for him. Will never work for use or recommend him to anyone.

i think its less on that beam but still is 15mm thick box section with a flat plate welded to it

with just tips in id walk off the job seen a few come down on other peoples jobs because they take silly stupid risks

nervy isnt the word for it, listening and watching like hell for bricks coming down or it shifting ready to try to get out of the way fast if needed

 

[W.olly]

Not mcuh but it runs like a Jombo jet now

Swapped a 1/2hp for a 3hp from one of my compressor and made a frame for the new motor and a tensioner from a spring and a new pulley. I tried to drill out the 5/8th but my gear is not very accurate so knackered that one for 19mm, will keep it in case i need a bigger one and drill it out if i get a new mill/drill machine.

just need to wait for the new belt to arrive and away i go again, i snapped the other, it is and old linked belt and was splitting in a few places.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I was left alone.
Alone with coffee.

Alone in a workshop.
Alone with a pile of junk.




Why?
I asked that myself.

Oh well.
Vark does what a Vark does.



Shaft was 2" hickory machined down into a hexagon. The head end was split and a oak wedge was used to secure head to shaft.

The head was a seasoned sycamore, simply because I had it laying around. The metal bands are a cut down gas cylinder. warmed up so spit dances off the metal and then taped onto the turned down head. As the cool they do clamp up nicely.

The rings are then only for show, are secured using rivets. They started off as old pins in a security door lock. hammered in and peined over using a ball pein hammer.

Then a hole was bored through the head and shaft and a beech dowel inserted. The beech was turned down from scrap and then again using oak secured by wedges.

 

[Olderisbetter]

After bashing a few house bricks into the footings by hand i had a brain wave, I used the spike off the Titan branded breaker i have from Screwfix, I cut off the point and welded it to a block off steel which gave me a 4" square on the end of the breaker that pounded the bricks in the ground very easy, I am going to make a bigger one to use as a mini whacker plate, The weld broke but i got it all done.

 

[GW8IZR]

good idea that, nice to improvise tools - I've been toying with an idea for an 'sds' concrete vibrator.

 

[Maker]

After bashing a few house bricks into the footings by hand i had a brain wave, I used the spike off the Titan branded breaker i have from Screwfix, I cut off the point and welded it to a block off steel which gave me a 4" square on the end of the breaker that pounded the bricks in the ground very easy, I am going to make a bigger one to use as a mini whacker plate, The weld broke but i got it all done.

I did the same with an SDS hammer once, can't remember what I was trying to do with it but it broke almost immediately, didn't put nearly enough heat into it.

 

[Olderisbetter]

good idea that, nice to improvise tools - I've been toying with an idea for an 'sds' concrete vibrator.

I have put a metal plate on shuttering before and run the SDS on it to vibrate concrete it worked ok

 

[GW8IZR]

I have put a metal plate on shuttering before and run the SDS on it to vibrate concrete it worked ok

I was thinking of ways to make a concrete poker on a flex .. but its no where near the top of my list

 

[WorkshopChris]

I was thinking of ways to make a concrete poker on a flex .. but its no where near the top of my list

what about lengths of curtain wire taped together inside a length of hose.

 

[GW8IZR]

what about lengths of curtain wire taped together inside a length of hose.

The minor stumbling block is securing the hose to the body of the drill and arranging enough pre load to make the percussion.

I've never seen the innards of a real one so I'm only guessing its a percussive motion?

 

[gaz1]

easy enough use the drill handle to fasten the pole make the other end flat with a good spring it and an inner pole then it will vibrate while under load as it springs back on the spring

 

[GW8IZR]

easy enough use the drill handle to fasten the pole make the other end flat with a good spring it and an inner pole then it will vibrate while under load as it springs back on the spring

I suppose it might be simpler to use an off set weight in the poker end and just spin it, like my whacker plate but enclosed in the poker bit.

 

[Hood]

First job of the day was to make an RSS number plate from Alu.

Then cut some 5mm stainless on the plasma, bore/tap some M8 holes and weld in studs for the flexible mounts. It is a base for a hydraulic power pack which will get glassed onto the deck of a 6.9m Cheetah.

Then this arrived, it is the donkey engine for the 10M AMC Cat that I am currently fitting out.

Started to make the frame for it that will hold the engine and hydraulic clutch/pump unit which will then be mounted to the engine beds in the boat via flexi mounts.

The last job of the day was to face and drill a 110mm long bit of 50mm Alu. It was drilled through at 25mm or so then bored out 32mm dia and 40mm deep at one side and 35mm dia and 30mm deep the other leaving a 40mm section in the centre.

It taps onto the stub shaft of the engine.

Then the clutch unit taps into the other end.
Doing this makes the welding of the bed for the clutch easy as no measuring is required, everything is automatically aligned both vertically and horizontally. The 40mm section is the space that the fenner tyre will take up, so it also sets the distance between stub shaft and clutch correctly.

 

[Luke]

Nice. Have you had much to do with Beta engines? We're thinking of putting one in to replace a Volvo Penta MD3B.

 

[Hood]

There are a few boats that use them as donkey engines and they seem to be good. Base engine is a 3cyl Kubota which has a good reputation and the marinising looks well thought out.
I think a few Yachts have them as well but I don't really have much to do with them so .....

One of the boats I worked on years ago had a Ford 6cyl marinised by Beta but the marinising wasn't the best, they seem to have come a long way since then, was probably getting on for 30 years ago

 

[selectedgrub]

 

[mechman]

Looks good (what is it)?