- Thread starter simon718
- Start date
chunkolini
celebrity artiste
- Messages
- 9,662
- Location
- Swansea
Hmm
I think they look like a fantastic convenient product. I can heartily reccomend them, I think you should buy some and report back to us here.
Or maybe not.
Chunko'.
I think they look like a fantastic convenient product. I can heartily reccomend them, I think you should buy some and report back to us here.
Or maybe not.
Chunko'.
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
- Messages
- 9,809
- Location
- Bedford UK
I've tapped with a tap in a drill before. It's very convenient when you have lots of holes to tap, though you need to be careful with drill speed.
Combined drills and taps would probably be brilliant in the right application. Like those self drilling screws.
Combined drills and taps would probably be brilliant in the right application. Like those self drilling screws.
simon718
needs to stay off ebay
- Messages
- 2,013
See what you mean Malcolm, however i was always told to tap by turning in half a turn then back a quarter then repeat, however iv only ever tapped thicker material, i suppose your method would be fine on thin sheet, which i assume it was?
Self drillers ahh now they are right and handy!
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
- Messages
- 9,809
- Location
- Bedford UK
Not much point tapping thin sheet - you'd never have the thickness to hold anything. I was thinking more along the lines of tapping thick sheet badly.
Though come to think of it I've never been taught how to tap. Too much forward movement and you get scratching, too much backwards is even worse, though half forward and quarter back is fairly close to what works best for me - is that the form?
Though come to think of it I've never been taught how to tap. Too much forward movement and you get scratching, too much backwards is even worse, though half forward and quarter back is fairly close to what works best for me - is that the form?
Paul.
Moderator
- Messages
- 7,047
- Location
- Northampton. UK
Thats for hand taps actually a 1/4 forward 1/2 back, if you buy machine taps, spiral point for open holes or spiral flute for blind holes you can use them in a drill no problem
- Messages
- 13,574
- Location
- England
Drill taps are alright, i wouldn't reccomend them on thick stuff but 4/5mm max they are okay.
Some of them just have round shanks, and larger ones are a pain to hold tight in a chuck, a quick spot of weld on the shank works well, i do that with most of my taps above about m6 that i use in a drill.
Check the shanks, go for 3 flats or hex shank ones if you do get any.
If you are one of these people that cant feel a drill breaking through, they arn't for you
Some of them just have round shanks, and larger ones are a pain to hold tight in a chuck, a quick spot of weld on the shank works well, i do that with most of my taps above about m6 that i use in a drill.
Check the shanks, go for 3 flats or hex shank ones if you do get any.
If you are one of these people that cant feel a drill breaking through, they arn't for you
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
- Messages
- 13,678
i run taps all the time in my drill but i'm only sparky not an engineer! Ive seen the drill taps and have been very tempted but the cost has always put me off. Drill size for tap i drill next size down.
Never used my driller in 17 years prefer either of the two mills.
Usually drill hole, whip drill out, select a slow speed, slap a tap in without moving the job, lines up perfect and goes through like a knife through butter one pass no backing off and rarely any slip. Just need a good chuck and rarely use a keyed type hate em.
Would not risk this if doing M3 or M4, M8 and above no problem. Same with lathe pulling in a 3/4"BSP tap (approx 27.2mm dia) one pass no backing off/chip break, to do it by hand really takes some grunt with repetitive backing off.
Anyone tried powering taps with a hand drill, really shocked me 18 months ago used to take 11 mins per hole amounting to 2 1/2 weeks tapping on a particular job. Dewalt came out in went decent M3 tap one pass, power out, job done in 35 secs each, thats the difference. Still get some sort of feel!
The drill taps can be very advantageous for production line stuff as long as material thickness is less than the drill length and not a blind hole.
Not for me dont like the prices.
Usually drill hole, whip drill out, select a slow speed, slap a tap in without moving the job, lines up perfect and goes through like a knife through butter one pass no backing off and rarely any slip. Just need a good chuck and rarely use a keyed type hate em.
Would not risk this if doing M3 or M4, M8 and above no problem. Same with lathe pulling in a 3/4"BSP tap (approx 27.2mm dia) one pass no backing off/chip break, to do it by hand really takes some grunt with repetitive backing off.
Anyone tried powering taps with a hand drill, really shocked me 18 months ago used to take 11 mins per hole amounting to 2 1/2 weeks tapping on a particular job. Dewalt came out in went decent M3 tap one pass, power out, job done in 35 secs each, thats the difference. Still get some sort of feel!
The drill taps can be very advantageous for production line stuff as long as material thickness is less than the drill length and not a blind hole.
Not for me dont like the prices.
