MGB Restoration

  1. Silas (son of Silas)

    Silas (son of Silas) In need of restoration.

    A few photgraphs of the work I have been doing on my MGB.

    The photo's show the floor before it was removed during repair and after.

    After I grit blasted the mess underneath it reveavled that someone had performed a pretty shoddy chassis repair that had subsequently rusted out.

    Also I discovered that someone had already replaced the floor (badly hence it rusting out again) and had drilled out all the factory spot weld and left me with 100 or so crappy drill holes to weld up.

    I fabricated a couple of repair sections, cut out the grot then welded in the new sections. I welded up the holes then painted everything with Etchweld. I then stripped the new floor pan and sprayed that with Etchweld also.

    After welding in the new floor I covered the new welds with more Etch weld.

    I still have the seams underneath to weld up, and after the sill is replaced in January I will finish welding the outside edge of the pan.
    • old floor.jpg
    • rusty chassis.jpg
    • blasted chassis.jpg
    • big hole.jpg
    • repair section.jpg
  2. Silas (son of Silas)

    Silas (son of Silas) In need of restoration.

    OK, so I ran out of spaces for photo's. here's some more.
    • painted chassis.jpg
    • painted chassis rear.jpg
    • New floor.jpg
  3. weldequip Member

    Posts: 5,074
    You've taken something on there, bet you're down the garage straight after your turkey dinner (you know, when the Queen's speech is on :rolleyes: )!!
    Love to see the pics when she's all done.
  4. I can see the 'bloodied' hand as well :) :) :) This way you really know that the job is all yours.

    I have found that whenever I have added a new plane, chisel or saw to my woodworking tools I manage to 'nick' myself with them all at least once in the first week or so. :)

    Once they have been 'blooded' then usually I have no more problem with them. :)
  5. MG David Member

    Posts: 355
    Warwick UK
    A question plus alternatives

    Good pictures of your work.

    What is etchweld? If it a combined weld through and etch primer? is it good at both?

    I am on my second MGB. Both of mine have been roadsters. My first one was in a similar state to yours. If I was doing it again I would consider removing everything from the shell and then getting it dipped by someone who know what they are doing such as Surface Processing before starting the bodywork repairs.( ). It will cost more but it deals with the bits of a restoration I hate and I think it would result in a good job.

    Anyway all power to your elbow.

    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 27, 2007
  6. Silas (son of Silas)

    Silas (son of Silas) In need of restoration.

    Etchweld is a weld through etch primer. It's pretty impressive. It stick to bare metal like shit sticks to a blanket and its not bad for welding. It hardly burns back at all, so for jobs like this it allows you to add some good protection in areas that usually would be left bare.

    It comes from
  7. Lippyp Member

    I used it on the chevy, impressive stuff. Thats a pretty rust B, my first Spit looked like that you could even see the road in places!
  8. malcolm

    malcolm Bob the builder

    Posts: 8,386
    Bedford UK
    How much does chemical dipping cost? I'm in the process of removing the plastic "underseal" from one of my Renault chassis with a heat gun and it's a time consuming job. On the other hand it's something I can do in the evenings when I don't feel up to risking welding fires. The guys in the link look like they could save me a lot of effort.

    PS - been there myself with an MGB, but don't have any decent photos. The rust seemed to be nicely limited to individual panels though which was good.

  9. MG David Member

    Posts: 355
    Warwick UK

    The following is cut and pasted from emails in June 2006:-

    "Many thanks for your enquiry. Firstly I must point out that this is a process that we carry out at our premises, it is not something that you could buy a tin of. We have very large tanks and the car shells, or parts of, are completely immersed within these tanks. Obviously the car has to be stripped right down to the bare shell before it is brought in. It is a process that takes 3/4 days to complete and it removes all paint, rust, underseal, soundeadening etc and brings the car back to a bare mild steel shell ready for you to work on. It has rust inhibitors added to the final stage and this protects the shell for 10/14 days.

    We can also offer a priming service if this is required.[/FONT]

    We have attached some information and pictures that you may find of interest.

    Our price to process your MGB shell would be £575 + VAT.

    If you need any additional information please do not hesitate to contact us."

    "Thank you for responding to my request for information.

    Looking at the information I see there are both an etch prime and an e-coat option. Could you give me prices for these on an MGB as well please.

    The leaflet does not say how the etch prime is applied. My assumption is that it would be sprayed. So would I be correct in thinking that due to the application methods e-coat will go inside box sections, with access holes, but the etch prime does not."

    "Our cost to oven bake and etch prime your MGB would be £300 + VAT. This is a spray on method as you say. However we do use a good quality weldable primer which is easy for you to work on.

    The e-coat would cost £750 + VAT and this is a full paint dip which does go into every nook and cranny. Any box section has to have 5/6mm holes drilled for drainage. Obviously the e-coat is more expensive but gives you a good quality finish ready for you to work on. All new cars have this coating underneath the paint finish as they come off the production lines these days.

    Hope this is useful to you. If you need any further information please do not hesitate to contact us, either by email or phone."

    While I am on a limited budget the price for the main process is something that I feel I may well be able to live with on my next project. It would just make such a difference. The etch prime I could do myself, although it would not be oven baked. I think e-coat is great particularly because it will go in the box sections etc, but it is expensive.

    When I saw these people at the Classic Motor Show at the NEC they told me I could have the main dip process then take the shell away, do my welding, then bring it back for a quick dip followed by the e-coat. However, I don't have a price for that.

    I hope this is of help.

  10. MG David Member

    Posts: 355
    Warwick UK
    By the way, I had seen your MGB GT restoration. It is of great interest to me as my next car project will probably be to create a car which my wife will be happy to go out in. So all your efforts to reduce wind noise around the windows plus the sound deadening are very relevant.

    Have you come across a US product called Quiet Car? I had hoped to buy some in the UK to try but it seems that it would have to come direct from them in the US.
  11. Lippyp Member

    If you're looking for a spray on sound proofer this stuff is supposed to be good:

    Thats quite a price for a humble MGB £1350 and you're nearly halfway to the cost of a new heritage shell, thats before you add any repair panels and welding costs. I can see it being justified on something rarer but you'd have to be very serious about your MGB.
  12. MG David Member

    Posts: 355
    Warwick UK
    Yes, I feel the dipping price is OK but the e-coat is too much.
  13. Silas (son of Silas)

    Silas (son of Silas) In need of restoration.

    David, can you tell me more about "Quiet Car?"
  14. Silas (son of Silas)

    Silas (son of Silas) In need of restoration.

    £1350 is steep for a 'B, but a MK1 3 syncro GT (or rather 3 -syncro-esque, its not quite my shell but similar) from BMH is £5k. I really doubt the cost of repair panels would total the difference of £3650, so in that context I think it may well be worth considering.
  15. MG David Member

    Posts: 355
    Warwick UK
    I have not used Quiet Car yet. You can get more info at It is something I was thinking about for my next project, whenever that will be.

    There is no UK agent, as far as I am aware. So it would be a case of direct import from the USA.

    A few months ago I did a little web reaserch an found an RX7 site where someone had done some before and after tests using a sound meter. The results were good.

    One of the reasons I mentioned it on this site was that I thought Malcolm might know something about it. From his MGB site I think he was an NVH specialist.
  16. Silas (son of Silas)

    Silas (son of Silas) In need of restoration.

    That stuff looks interesting. There is a product available from vetus that is specifically designed to coat the area of a boats hull (from the inside) above the prop and shaft and also the floor of the engine room that stops transmission of noise and vibration through to the rest of the boat. This looks like a similar product.
  17. malcolm

    malcolm Bob the builder

    Posts: 8,386
    Bedford UK
    Looks useful. It is a spray on damping material. Typically this sort of thing will be less effective than modern stick-on damping sheet, but has the advantage of easy to apply in production.

    The damping material won't do much for the low frequency rumble you would get from tyre noise, but would help with mid-frequency noise (that makes it difficult to hear others speak). I know of one supplier, but they have a £150 minimum order.

    You could reduce noise all round using a heavy layer foam and barrier system. These are a layer of rubber sheet backed by a layer of foam. 5kg/m2 sheet with 1/2 inch foam would help with just about all frequencies, but stops the carpets from fitting if you have it on the tunnel.

    Really important on the MGB is sealing all the cavities to stop noise travelling from the engine bay area or the rear quarters. I used plastic sheet and foam. Also sealing any holes into the engine bay (loose grommets etc) works like magic.

    Those window frames will always leave a gap that lets in high frequency noise, so quieten everything else down too far and that'll get even more annoying. As will axle noise. It's good to have a bit of general noise to make things like that stand out less.
  18. Silas (son of Silas)

    Silas (son of Silas) In need of restoration.

    5KG/m2!!!! That goes a long way to explaining your need for the V8 Conversion!.

    My B is so noisy its unbearable. The previous owner removed every single scrap of sound deadening material, including the carpets.

    When the bodywork is complete I desperatley need to asses what my best course of action is to rectify this. It's so bad that you have to SHOUT to have a conversation on the motorway.
  19. Lippyp Member

    My chevy is pretty noisy, aerodynamics of a brick, 5.7L V8, twin single box wide bore exhausts, K&N air filter and no carpets at the moment. I did have to junk the poly gearbox mount and go back to a rubber one as it transmitted so much gear noise into the cab it was unbearable. It should all get quieter once I've repaired the other side and soundproofed the floor probably with some dynomat, new carpet and underlay, replaced any missing grommets. After that I'll make it noisier again when I've installed two amps and a subwoofer!
  20. malcolm

    malcolm Bob the builder

    Posts: 8,386
    Bedford UK
    The heavy soundproofing helped keep the car on the ground.

    Decent sealing and lots of soft trim (carpets, foam behind the carpets, foam backing to headlining, clotch seats) make a very big difference to the actual ability to hear people speak.
Recent Posts