123hotchef
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any one used this? http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/RCPtinned.html
any one used this? http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/RCPtinned.html
For that price Id rather plump for Jotun, its a tried and tested affair and is roughly same price.
Loads on here have used Jotun with a lot of joy - Ive used it and been really pleased with results even on my first use, but longevity is yet to be seen - so to me it would be a case of going for the known quantity.
The single pack paints are porous. I've tried so many of them that I wouldn't entertain them now. They let water thru causing rust.any one used this? http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/RCPtinned.html
The single pack paints are porous. I've tried so many of them that I wouldn't entertain them now. They let water thru causing rust.
I personally expect my Jotun to last well over ten years if not double that but my chassis and parts have been sand blasted and the body will be back to bare metal.
My only worry is how it will perform in the wheel arches without a stone chip covering.
My cavities are being done with Dinitrol and will be reapplied regularly.
I'm just using Jotun 87 on the underneath of my cars. One I did the rear third of the car,stripped back to bare metal and then applied the jotun with a brush.
View attachment 110722
there are only a couple of small areas that need touching up again, but it looks more like its because I "missed a bit" rather than the properties of the Jotun. I only drive 1000 miles a year in this car, but it is parked outside and not garaged. for cavity wax Im using Bilt Hamber dynax S50
http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50
The cavity wax job is soon to be attended to, what made you chose the Dynax?
the testing in the links above, plus dinitrol is alot more expensive and with dinitrol is seems you need about 3 or 4 different types of cavity wax to do the same job.
also for spraying cavity wax I use one of these spray guns rather than aerosols
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121506217427
I've said this on other threads.
Wirebrushed areas, by hand or grinder - after 10 yrs the epoxy paint had become detached in flakes, sheets, whole sections, letting water under to rust what was good steel
Areas I blasted were still intact - the epoxy still had a good hold on the metal - to get it off in areas to do other work, I had to blast and grind it.
I covered it with a top coat of machine enamel - I used machine enamel has that's what I had numerous 5ltr tins of. Then a good sprayed on coating of underseal - the difference in colour between the underseal and the enamel allowing me to see any areas that had worn off from having road grit thrown at it.
None of which stopped other bits rusting out from the inside - I used waxoyl and Dinotrol on this car - not sure there was much difference. On it's rebuild, I'm using noxudol 700, the stuff Practical Classics decided lasted well in their 3yr test.
I've put Jotun Hardtop on top of my epoxy primer and it is rock hard, but appreicate the comments and I'll consider some stone chip covering. Is this the rubber stuff? How is it applied?
I started using Dinitrol rattle cans (3125) and the wax was really good, heavy and hardened after a few days. Then I switched to their 5 l bottles and a Sealey cavity kit. The big bottle stuff doesn't harden and doesn't seem as good.
Someone on this thread said that Jotuns tests are done to their standards, that's not right, they are done to ISO9227 which allows you to compare one paint against another paint. I can't find the Jotun figures but people are saying they are well over 1000 hrs, I think even 3000 hrs depending on which test, as a comparison, from memory, bright zinc plated bolts are way less than 100 hrs and last a couple of years in prone areas of the car.
...........Someone on this thread said that Jotuns tests are done to their standards, that's not right, they are done to ISO9227 which allows you to compare one paint against another paint.
I thought it has a ten year rating in a marine environment but not sure if that requires a sand blasted surface. I think rust in pits is ok.
If the OEM paint lasts 10 to 20 years then I'd expect epoxy primer to last much longer.
The single pack paints are porous. I've tried so many of them that I wouldn't entertain them now. They let water thru causing rust.
I personally expect my Jotun to last well over ten years if not double that but my chassis and parts have been sand blasted and the body will be back to bare metal.
My only worry is how it will perform in the wheel arches without a stone chip covering.
My cavities are being done with Dinitrol and will be reapplied regularly.
I used regular 87, looking back I might of been better off with 87 Aluminium. However, apparently the adhesion quality of regular 87 is superior over the aluminium to bare steel.
I used regular 87, looking back I might of been better off with 87 Aluminium. However, apparently the adhesion quality of regular 87 is superior over the aluminium to bare steel.