Sorry to divebomb the thread but do you have any more details on that jig Coo? I've the same job to do as the OP and that ^^^^ looks promising.Rather than have the danger of holding the load whilst rotating...
What about a 12 sided round rotisserie:
I will be massive though, but safer in my mind...
Awesome, cheers Coo - couldn't find it myself
well should have done it first before you did all that loverly work to your boat not after the fact
then you wouldnt moan about having to do it on your back doing it upside down
the hexagonal wheels seems a nicer way that a rotisserie as with a rotisserie you have to get the centre of gravity right or else the thing will be a ball ache to rotate.
A cruiser is not the same as a yacht, a cruiser will have removable ballast and the engine, if it's inboard, will also contribute to the ballast. This means the COG will be pretty near the waterline when it's empty.
In a yacht, especially a fin or bilge keel boat which has non removable ballast, the COG will be a good distance below the waterline.
It needs to be as the center of gravity and the center of bouancy/ floatation need to be a fair distance apart, with a yacht this give quite a high righting angle in a knock down, 165 degree ish if its a good one. On a cruiser like this youd be lucky if the righting angle is 100 degrees. Any flooding and the free surface effect would roll it.A cruiser is not the same as a yacht, a cruiser will have removable ballast and the engine, if it's inboard, will also contribute to the ballast. This means the COG will be pretty near the waterline when it's empty.
In a yacht, especially a fin or bilge keel boat which has non removable ballast, the COG will be a good distance below the waterline.
It needs to be as the center of gravity and the center of bouancy/ floatation need to be a fair distance apart, with a yacht this give quite a high righting angle in a knock down, 165 degree ish if its a good one. On a cruiser like this youd be lucky if the righting angle is 100 degrees. Any flooding and the free surface effect would roll it.
Could you not just sand blast the bottom seal with a good expoxy coating like you would with a hull plauged by osmosis ( though yours is dry suspect by the look of the bottom its suffered this fate too) fill the big dents chunks etc and reinforce with mat on the inside. Be a lot easier, you can apply the epoxy with a roller, 3 good coats rather than 1.
Remember I said
Boat = bring out another thousand....i wasnt been negative, just an experienced optomist!
Careening ?
Ive had a few boat projects over the years, mixed with bike projects and building projects.....they all eat money like sheep eat grass.
Though my early forays into fibre glass repairs were to keep a racing power boat going....I had the hull built, and was a bit ambitous about keeping the weight down. One day I hit a large piece of wood at about 40 knots, the crack was 4 foot long. Never delt with the osmosis thing on a boat of my own though, I have been involved with a couple I didnt own.
My last trike project was nicked named "double it and add a bit cubed" because it had 3 wheels, cost twice as much and took twice as long as planned.
Keep going, you deserve a great boat when its done, when you do the next one, you will do it cheaper, quicker and in a different order because from your optomisim you will have learned so much