Morrisman
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- 7,249
- Location
- Staffordshire, England
Something I was told when I built my first Chevy 350 in the Philippines 25+ years ago, was to go over the whole block and the heads with a die grinder, inside and out, remove all the casting flash, seams, ridges and rough edges, especially on the oil return holes. Open them up, smooth them out, let that oil flow. It's surprising how rough and ready some of the cast in holes are.Well yes, but why would have air on the hp side? Because the wet sump contents isn’t where it should be usually. Either the oil in the sump is being pulverised by the crankshaft half way up the crankcase instead of on the bottom, or more likely it’s still in the cylinder head(s), the high rpm the tuned engine is turning meaning gravity hasn’t been ably to push it back down into the sump.
I was standing next to a 2l 16 valve on my dyno, when the cam cover vent let go with a gush of hot oil all over the exhaust - I didn’t look, just ran out. The head had filled with the oil that should have been in the sump...
And it saves on cut knuckles when assembling too.
Probably not a problem in die cast modern alloy motors though.
High volume oil pumps, to be avoided at all costs. People think they are essential in a hi-po motor, but what they do is fill your top end with oil.