Window cills, how are they fixed?

[ajlelectronics]

i have to either patch the existing cill or replace it. However, I need to assess how much damage needs to be done to remove the old one. The base is a 100+ year old solid stone wall.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Run a multi tool around the edges burried in the wall and prise it up.
If it's original it's probably got some big old nails into the wall underneath

Pull what's burried in the wall out after or just but the new upt it your choice

 

[Parm]

Depends what finish you want and how easy a job.

For direct wood replacement follow what Robin said.

An alternative is to overplate with the UPVC cills. No mess on the walls or from dismantling the old one.

Simplest cleanest job with minimal mess and no making good.

But I don’t like the UPVC cills

 

[Olderisbetter]

I replaced some deep window cills at a cottage and i used some 6 x 2 timber glued and clamped to form and 4 foot by 18 inch board bedded on foam spray and packers, After painting it looks like it was always there.

 

[dobbslc]

That'll probably be on a bed of mortar and nailed down. I would prise it up slowly bit by bit.

 

[gaz1]

if they are the old ones

what ever you do dont prise upwards or prise forwards

they have a wood wedge between the mortar of the brick or stone

prising forwards rips and damages the front of the wall

prising upwards rips the wood wedge out

if you want to save that piece its a blow torch and burn that paint off with scrapper or plane / sand the paint off

if your not that bothered split it up following the lines of the wood if done right you will find the nails hold the wood in place after splitting it

others fall off and remove easilly

 

[Turbo]

We have an old stone farmhouse with 2' thick walls & during renovation in the 70's it was fitted with plywood sills. Some of these needed replaced when we fitted upvc windows & we used the upvc sills, as suggested by Parm. I agree, they're not as nice as wood but they're simple to fit, easy to keep & never need painted!

 

[angellonewolf]

pvc sills look a bit carp but as above cover up a lot and dont need painting there great in a bathroom where stuff is left on the sill all the time as its a wipe clean

 

[addjunkie]

Id cut that out with a multi tool, the neat cut the replacment, but as said if you can do upvc in one piece, its a tidy easy job, only down side I found with the upvc is they scratch quite easily.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I'm wondering if I should just cut some patches and graft them in?

 

[gaz1]

Alternatively you can buy a pine board and fit over

Your choice though

 

[ajlelectronics]

Alternatively you can buy a pine board and fit over

Your choice though

Are you suggesting filling the gaps and fitting a thick veneer?

 

[gaz1]

No im suggesting fitting a board straight over it

https://www.diy.com/departments/bui...terials/furniture-boards/pine/_/N-8snZ1z13t2q

 

[ajlelectronics]

No im suggesting fitting a board straight over it

https://www.diy.com/departments/bui...terials/furniture-boards/pine/_/N-8snZ1z13t2q

OK, interesting idea, but adding 18mm might look a bit daft you think?

 

[gaz1]

Theres thinner 18mm was a quick find for a mobile phone connection

YOu find them on pine wardrobes

 

[ajlelectronics]

Well after painting the skirting boards, I decided to look at the board again. I discovered more rot where all the rebuilding work was done, so it had to come off. Sadly the rotten wood flaked all over the wet paint, but que sera!

I was able to identify a couple of nail heads due to the typical quality of work standard in this house. Using those as a guide, I chiselled away layers in the likely area until I found and exposed the nail heads for removal. Naturally,removing it covered the rest of the skirting board in dust but I will repair that later. The only part that gave me any trouble was the extreme left hand piece that wasn't part of the main board (with the Alexa device on it). That piece runs underneath the wall structure both sides and I had to resort to destroying it bit by bit with a chisel. I still have to deal with the remnants before I can fit a new cill as well as replace the rotten cill support noggin on the far right.

Is hardwood like Mahogany freely available from timber yards? 'Indoors is insisting on wood stained rather than nice clean and fresh paint!

My feeling is to measure and make a cardboard template for it and then cut the wood to suit as I only really get one chance.

 

[DAPPH]

Depends what finish you want and how easy a job.

For direct wood replacement follow what Robin said.

An alternative is to overplate with the UPVC cills. No mess on the walls or from dismantling the old one.

Simplest cleanest job with minimal mess and no making good.

But I don’t like the UPVC cills

We are about to get replacement tripple glazing , the failed DG stuff is 30 yrs old & has all manner of faults . The UPVC cills were glued with mastic to wood they'd used for shuttering & came loose at some point and as a result most of the cills in the bungalow have at least one screw through the top ...un sunk countersink screws and not one of the same size . Local tradesmen excel themselves most of the time in this type of repair .

The UPVC cills also take on scratches & dings over the years & often come loose when the adhesive dies .

I shall be putting my own piranha pine cills , bespoke cut to 40 mm thick . Once the bed of the cill has been levelled and dried well I shall carefully use a marking knife and make several deep square shaped " U's" 1/2 " wide by about 3/4 " long where I want to put the securing screws then with a really sharp chisel cut the U from the open end deeply to about 3 mm deep keeping the curled shaving still attached to the wood . Then drill the screw holes in the cavity and counter sink them , transfer the holes to the brick work , drill & plug th holes them. Now put the cills on a thin bed of mastic beads and tighten the screws down.

Now comes the clever bit , use a good quality waterproof wood glue , paint the hole , uncurl the shaving and wipe it into the cavity . So it is dry enough to stick it down with some two inch wide sellotape . Once it's taped put a weight on it and leave it to cure over night . In the morning peel the tape off very carefully from the attached end and you should end up with an almost invisible hidden screw fixing .

Lightly sand the cills de dust then either wax or varnish them as required . Being piranha pine it will have some beautiful flames in the wood ranging from almost yellow to rhubarb pink .
I prefer to chamfer the front and visible top & bottom edges with a 1/4 " wide chamfers ..it looks very classy if done well by hand ……. not a router .

Most Jewsons Builders Merchants are good for sourcing hardwoods , our local place has a sawmill and a planer , so will cut and plane to size for a bit extra . They also do it for other branches in their group.

For those big cills I'd level the cill bed with mortar & get it dead level , leave it to set for a week or so . Then approach it as above after biscuit joining and clamping the planks of wood to make the cill width Use cramps to hold the wood flat to thick cross pieces as well as cramps to pull the planks together

 

[slim_boy_fat]

That piece runs underneath the wall structure both sides and I had to resort to destroying it bit by bit with a chisel.

You need one of these, great bit of kit and ideal for your situation

 

[armalites]

Is hardwood like Mahogany freely available from timber yards? 'Indoors is insisting on wood stained rather than nice clean and fresh paint!

Not sure what your tastes are or how the house is decorated but I think a piece of solid oak kitchen counter top would provide a nice contrast against the white.

 

[Nick67GT]

ajlelectronics, post: 1421630, member: 11014"]Is hardwood like Mahogany freely available from timber yards? 'Indoors is insisting on wood stained rather than nice clean and fresh paint![/QUOTE]

Nicks Timber towards the lower end of the Bristol Rd will sort you out no problem. They’ve got a fantastic machine shop and will plain / shape any timber you want. Or just buy standard board from them and make up your own.

Alternatively, try Griggs timber just down from them on the same side.