Which of these Single Phase MIG's would you choose for first time welder?

[silverzx]

Hi all,

Looking for my first welder as I keep having to take my cars to my local garage everytime something needs doing.

It will be used for replacing rusty arches with fresh panels on my old cars (primarily my Nissan 200SX) and for fabrication of exhaust systems (mild steel).

It needs to be single phase and under £300.

I also will need advice if it's missing anything for GAS use and advice on GAS in general for that matter.

I'm currently considering:

Murex 160A MIG Welder for around £250 complete with Euro torch, regulator and earth. Used heavily but a good brand.

I'm also considering buying new and getting a Sealey or Clarke unit. However EVERYONE I know who does welding says go with a second hand industrial unit...

Anyway heres the Sealeys:

£190 NEW - Sealey MIGHTYMIG150 Professional Gas/No-Gas MIG Welder 150Amp 230V

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-MI...s-No-Gas-MIG-Welder-150Amp-230V-/111075072180

OR

£226 NEW - Sealey SUPERMIG150 Professional MIG Welder 150Amp 230V

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-SU...913?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e85906609

OR

£209 NEW - Clarke MIG 180 'No-Gas' / 'Gas' MIG Welder (40-160 AMP)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-MI...364?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item461690a2ec

OR

£252 NEW - Clarke MIG151EN Turbo 'No-Gas' MIG Welder (30-150AMP)

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/mig151en-turbo-no-gas-mig-welder

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated..!

 

[Wallace]

If the Murex is in good working order then that would be my choice out of the three. Have a look at the Clarke range and compare them to the Sealey, the Vat free days can save you 20% on their prices. Avoid using the disposable cylinders if you can as they are the most expensive gas option and once you have a welder more projects than cars will be in your sights!

 

[silverzx]

If the Murex is in good working order then that would be my choice out of the three. Have a look at the Clarke range and compare them to the Sealey, the Vat free days can save you 20% on their prices. Avoid using the disposable cylinders if you can as they are the most expensive gas option and once you have a welder more projects than cars will be in your sights!

Thanks Wallace, I have updated my original post to now include the "Clarke MIG151EN Turbo 'No-Gas' MIG Welder" and "Clarke MIG 180 'No-Gas' / 'Gas' MIG Welder" welders which are both within budget.

I can appreciate that I might want to do other things (making a squat rack would be cool).

The Murex is local to me but I'm put off by the lack of warranty, being used and looking a bit beaten up, however as already said, it seems everyone prefers second hand industrial brands to new "cheap" makes such as Clarke and Sealey..

 

[GrahamGKD]

For car work you need one with a low setting - do you have that information for the Murex?

Edit: I see the 151 EN starts out at 30A which should be usable for thin material.

 

[silverzx]

For car work you need one with a low setting - do you have that information for the Murex?

Graham, the manual for the Murex can be found here (PDF format so can't copy paste it for you):

http://www.murexwelding.co.uk/manuals/other/Instruction Manuals/Tradesmig 130-160-230-240.pdf

 

[Wallace]

Buying your first machine new from a good supplier will remove the worry of a used unit unless you can get someone who knows Mig welders to check out the Murex but in terms of quality it is a big step up from the other machines. Avoid the no-gas setup if you want to weld car bodywork, you will get much better weld quality using gas such as Argoshield or equivalent. The added outlay for the larger cylinders and regulator setup soon pays for itself. The 40A lowest setting is a bit high for car bodywork as a first time welder.

 

[Wallace]

Also, have you factored in the cost of a mask, PPE and consumables?

 

[silverzx]

Buying your first machine new from a good supplier will remove the worry of a used unit unless you can get someone who knows Mig welders to check out the Murex but in terms of quality it is a big step up from the other machines. Avoid the no-gas setup if you want to weld car bodywork, you will get much better weld quality using gas such as Argoshield or equivalent. The added outlay for the larger cylinders and regulator setup soon pays for itself. The 40A lowest setting is a bit high for car bodywork as a first time welder.

I can appreciate that but don't want to go over budget, I think £200-£300 is reasonable for a "first welder".

I have a friend who welds gates for a living but he wouldn't be able to inspect it until after the purchase.

If I were to buy a "No-Gas" unit I would have it converted to gas, I have no intention of using a No-Gas setup. I'll look into Argoshield, thanks for the advice.

That's not what I wanted to hear, is 40A likely to burn through thin body panels? What's the reasoning for 40A being high? I'm don't disbelieve you I just don't know much about welding at the moment and want to learn why.

Thanks again for the response!

Also, have you factored in the cost of a mask, PPE and consumables?

I have a mask, overalls and gloves already. Gas, tips, wire etc can be added ontop of the budget for the welder (whatever that costs).

 

[GrahamGKD]

You will find that you burn through on thin material even with a low setting unless you back it up with some copper behind to take some of the heat away (not always practical) - you have to use a pulsing technique - lots of short welds which merge together. Have a read of the tutorials on here. 30A is going to be easier than 40A.

 

[GrahamGKD]

Have a look at the thin metal technique here.

 

[silverzx]

You will find that you burn through on thin material even with a low setting unless you back it up with some copper behind to take some of the heat away (not always practical) - you have to use a pulsing technique - lots of short welds which merge together. Have a read of the tutorials on here. 30A is going to be easier than 40A.

I'll have a good read through, so maybe the Clarke/Sealey could be a better option thenif they have lower settings?

 

[Freddy0309]

have you looked at the cebora pocket turbo? can find the just above your top end but if you haggle you might be able to get it for your budget, plus if you want to pick one second hand theres plenty of spares available and second hand machines can be picked up pretty cheap

 

[silverzx]

I've found a Cebora Pocket Turbo 130 a 2 hour drive away for £50. Would only use £20 fuel.. Might go have a look at it tonight as I have nothing better to be doing..

 

[Freddy0309]

its a nice little welder, the button on the torch tends to go but spares are available, i welded the sills on my disco with one and its got thelow end of 30a for bodywork

 

[silverzx]

its a nice little welder, the button on the torch tends to go but spares are available, i welded the sills on my disco with one and its got thelow end of 30a for bodywork

Fair enough!

Out of the originally posted welders, which would you choose for me?

 

[GrahamGKD]

I'll have a good read through, so maybe the Clarke/Sealey could be a better option thenif they have lower settings?

I would have thought so from your original selection. I've never had one myself but a lot of people on here speak highly of the Clarke machines. Do a search and have a read regards which models are best.

 

[Freddy0309]

can't comment on the sealey as i've never used one, if the murex is any good that would be my first choice but the cebora are lovely little machines, and clarke welders good too my first mig was a pro 90 and if you sign up to the machinemart newsletter you get a few discount codes through so could save 40 odd quid on it. if i was you i would see if you could find anyone localish to you that you could try and see what suits you

 

[Pigwelder]

The guy selling the Murex has a few other welders for sale he's not that far from me (I'm looking at getting one), he's very good at reconditioning his machines and will look after the machine after you have bought it.

Having said that i learnt to weld on a clarke welder and we had it on the farm for years and it kept on going and going, and being a farmer we don't treat our equipment probably as well as we should.

 

[optima21]

Ive had a couple of clarkes over the years and they have short torch leads to keep the costs down, its not a major thing, but sometimes its nice to have leads over 2.0m long

 

[silverzx]

Ended up getting a second hand Clarke 160T with new regulator and bottle (size B) of almost empty Argon. Seems to work well, will make a new thread about it.