Which is the best chop saw out of these?

[paul r]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390177638721&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370367590325&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350343005557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT


Need something big to cut upto 3" pipe...

Paul.

 

[weldingscotty803]

either ryobi one.
the problem with the evo one is the blades. you'd be better off buying a different blade. i get mine from spear and jackson i think. we get all ours sharpened there too. 45 quid new. about 13 quid to get sharpened. they dont half cut well. problem is if you chip a tooth. blunts the blade very quickly.
if your just using it for the odd cut then all of them will do, but if its for heavy use they the ryobi ones are your best bet. the evo has a 30min duty cycle, no good if your doing a hundred cuts
hth scott

 

[paul r]

Will be a fair few cuts.

I should also say that i'll be cutting 3" stainless. Will the ryobi make a nice clean cut in that?

Paul.

 

[weldingscotty803]

erm, should do. how easy is it to cut the pipe with a grinder? if you did go with the evo then you'd have to get a stainless cutting blade. shouldnt matter with the abrasive ryobi ones.
what thickness is the stainless

 

[paul r]

erm, should do. how easy is it to cut the pipe with a grinder? if you did go with the evo then you'd have to get a stainless cutting blade. shouldnt matter with the abrasive ryobi ones.
what thickness is the stainless

it's 1.5mm.........ah, didnt realise you'd need a different blade? thought they cut everything...?

Paul.

 

[weldingscotty803]

they will for about 4 or 5 cuts. even my proper steel blades at work are ****e with stainless. stick with the ryobi ones. or............get a cheap one outta cromwells
linky
mine was 50 quid. bargain too. just have to got steady with abrasive ones as the blades flex

 

[paul r]

they will for about 4 or 5 cuts. even my proper steel blades at work are ****e with stainless. stick with the ryobi ones. or............get a cheap one outta cromwells
linky
mine was 50 quid. bargain too. just have to got steady with abrasive ones as the blades flex

Thanks for the link.........do you think that the 'OSAKI' ones are any good? will it last and make good cuts? How is the quality over the ryobi one?

Paul.

 

[weldingscotty803]

erm, its ok for the price. if you have got the money, get the ryobi one. get some GOOD quality disks and take your time.

 

[paul r]

erm, its ok for the price. if you have got the money, get the ryobi one. get some GOOD quality disks and take your time.

OK, thanks.

Which discs are a good make to get?

Cheers,

Paul.

 

[Paul.]

As you probably know I cut loads of stainless, almost all of it with a Ryobi ECO 2035 chopsaw, I use the smith and arrow disks as they are inox graded, not all makes are, despite what some people say with a bit of basic knowledge of how to set it up it can be very accurate, even on mitres, you cant do much about the dust and noise though.
Cutting angles on larger sections will limit the effective life of discs, as they wear down you will struggle to reach through the depth of the material, you can keep the part worn ones for straight cuts though,
When cutting angles forget about using the vice, as you clamp it up the pressure will try to alter the angle, and pushes the workpiece forward under the blade, the trick is to set the angle and use a G clamp to hold the workpiece against the back jaw of the vice, on smaller sections a packing piece is used to bring the job forward under the centre of the blade.
Make a stand for it, mines on wheels, and make some adjustable stands for supporting long bars, you need at least 2 on the left and one on the right to support the cut piece. mine have rollers on the top.
If any of this doesn't make sense I can take a couple of photos tomorrow.

 

[paul r]

As you probably know I cut loads of stainless, almost all of it with a Ryobi ECO 2035 chopsaw, I use the smith and arrow disks as they are inox graded, not all makes are, despite what some people say with a bit of basic knowledge of how to set it up it can be very accurate, even on mitres, you cant do much about the dust and noise though.
Cutting angles on larger sections will limit the effective life of discs, as they wear down you will struggle to reach through the depth of the material, you can keep the part worn ones for straight cuts though,
When cutting angles forget about using the vice, as you clamp it up the pressure will try to alter the angle, and pushes the workpiece forward under the blade, the trick is to set the angle and use a G clamp to hold the workpiece against the back jaw of the vice, on smaller sections a packing piece is used to bring the job forward under the centre of the blade.
Make a stand for it, mines on wheels, and make some adjustable stands for supporting long bars, you need at least 2 on the left and one on the right to support the cut piece. mine have rollers on the top.
If any of this doesn't make sense I can take a couple of photos tomorrow.

Thanks for the info Some pics would be good!

Think i'll get the ryobi one tomorrow, with some good discs.....

Thanks for the help

Paul.

 

[Paul.]

A couple of other disavantages of abrasive saws, they leave a nasty burr, like a razor blade, so be careful, get in the habit of deburring as you cut or it's A&E here we come,
They also generate a bit of heat so will discolor stainless along the cut, not a problem if you are welding though.
I have some 40mm box to cut tomorrow, I'll take a few pictures.

 

[pedrobedro]

I welded tabs to the bolt heads on my chop saw and made them like wing nuts so they are hand tightened. I also cut the slots deeper so it will cut more than 45°. As the blade wears I move the clamp bolt and put a nut under the clamp slot to lock it in and get a lot more use from them. Wear gloves and the burrs are not a problem and a computer chair base makes a good adjustable height support.

 

[paul r]

A couple of other disavantages of abrasive saws, they leave a nasty burr, like a razor blade, so be careful, get in the habit of deburring as you cut or it's A&E here we come,
They also generate a bit of heat so will discolor stainless along the cut, not a problem if you are welding though.
I have some 40mm box to cut tomorrow, I'll take a few pictures.

Is there anything you can put on the stainless? oil or anything to stop heat buildup?

Paul.