Which gauge to use ?

[Matt WRX]

Morning all

I'm restoring my car, it's a 17 yr old classic Impreza. typically it needs the rear arches replacing and some minor repairs to the sills where the previous owners used to jack the car up in the wrong place

For these repairs I'm using a couple of spare front wings, for the arches, and an old bonnet for the sills. Recycling at it's best.

I also need to manufacture 3 or 4 plates for the chassis rail, this has been damaged again by the previous owner jacking the car in the wrong place.

I want to use a good quality, stronger, steel for the chassis and I'm after your recommendation of which gauge to buy, and any online recommended suppliers.

Once again thanks for you help

Matt

p.s. Still haven't bought a new MIG welder yet but likely to get the Clarke 151EN Gas/Gasless.

 

[Punx0r]

I think it's best to stick with the original type of steel and just increase the thickness where you need more strength. Matching thickness to what's already on the car will make welding easier as well.

Different steels have different resistance to corrosion (which is good), but mixing metals will cause them to corrode faster than either would on it's own

 

[langy]

Only my opinion but i wouldn't be doing that sort of work with a gasless welder, Clarke are crap in my opinion.

 

[philsmin]

If you only plan to weld bodywork a 90EN would be more than capable so a 151EN will be more than up to the job, used one for years gasless without a problem.

As already said buy steel the exact same thickness as original this will make it easier.

 

[Matt WRX]

Cheers fella, I'll have to get under and find out what gauge the chassis is on the Scooby.

Gasless mig's get a lot of bad press but I used one for years, the only real problem I had was the live torch... I hated it.

 

[Punx0r]

I've no used one, but I imagine it's better if you're welding outside in windy conditions. Although I've found the gas MIG to work ok if you take the time to set up a wind break and turn the gas flow up high.

0.8mm is a pretty common thickness for most areas of car bodywork, including outer sills, wheelarches etc. Inner sills are usually thicker I think (being loadbearing) and then chassis rails, suspension mountings etc. Hopefully you won't need to weld much of those areas

That's based on a few 70's to late 90's panels I've seen. Modern cars are moving to stronger, thinner steels, but I think it'd have to be a pretty recent one to encounter that.

I am no panel beater though!

 

[langy]

0.6 is great for thin bodywork.

I've no used one, but I imagine it's better if you're welding outside in windy conditions. Although I've found the gas MIG to work ok if you take the time to set up a wind break and turn the gas flow up high.

0.8mm is a pretty common thickness for most areas of car bodywork, including outer sills, wheelarches etc. Inner sills are usually thicker I think (being loadbearing) and then chassis rails, suspension mountings etc. Hopefully you won't need to weld much of those areas

That's based on a few 70's to late 90's panels I've seen. Modern cars are moving to stronger, thinner steels, but I think it'd have to be a pretty recent one to encounter that.

I am no panel beater though!

 

[Matt WRX]

Thanks guys, I'm looking around 16 to 18 gauge for the chassis so just need to get some ordered. Using the wing and bonnet as donor helped with the cash flow and matches existing panels perfectly.

It's been a while since I welded but several years as a panel beater should come back to me.... i hope !