Whats a good paint for Engines etc.

[RTspray]

Hi all, Ive strated sandblasting all the parts for the engine and under the car, Got the etching primer sorted and Im happy with that, just wondering what type of Black paint I should use to spray over the engine and springs, diff, prop etc etc.

Im looking at a nice gloss finish deffo not matt but not sure weather Ill have to use High temp paint on the engine and bearing in mind I dont plan on using hamer as its expensive.

 

[Drains]

It's not high temp, but Rustoleum is good and hard and easy to apply. Otherwise a black enamel - do an "engine enamel paint" search. Plenty about.

 

[cresad67]

Hi

When i painted the engine on my toyota I used some engine paint that I bought from frost , it was high temp and a gloss altho' I brushed it on. The thing is decent paint isn't going to be dead cheap

Adam

 

[Weldinator]

Good prep will help, some blocks can be difficult with their nooks and crannies.

This is the same stuff from frost but in aluminium. This colour as with other light colours means you can spot where oil leaks are coming from.

 

[langy]

Epoxy primer with 2K on top is by far the best

 

[RTspray]

Hmmm i like the idea of enamel paint but I suppose Ill have to bit the bullet.

 

[outofthefire]

Pretty much any paint designed for a car body will be ok on an engine. Its not going to get much hotter than a car sat out in full sun in summer.

 

[Weldinator]

But not all paint can last where oil/petrol/diesel are in close proximity, then constant heat.

I had my engine frame done in 2k epoxy primer/paint and it looks great, however some pitted rust spots are still on show. If you have the equipment then its worth it, if not well the block barely gets seen in most engine bays anyway.

My preference for blocks is to be more dull in shine but still noticeable, without it being in your face, really shiny ones just dont look right. I leave the shiny bits for certain bits inside the engine bay so it has contrast.

It does look shiner in the flesh though

 

[Country Joe]

Weldinator, did you stick that bar-code back on after painting, or just paint around it?
I've just got to know!
CJ

 

[Weldinator]

The code is inside a lip on the block, so i stuck some blue detailing masking tape over it.

 

[Country Joe]

Oh, I see. I just had an irrational need to know thing going on!
I can sleep, now!
Thanks.
CJ

 

[Chipper]

But not all paint can last where oil/petrol/diesel are in close proximity, then constant heat

The only paint I've had trouble with is 1k under 2k clear, on a highly-tuned air-cooled bike engine (i.e. hot). 2k, enamels, celly all been OK. There really oughtn't to be that much petrol about... And the heat on watercooled engines isn't that much except maybe around exhaust ports. Pretty sure someone on here's used Dulux...
If you got rust that's plain bad work, not the paint's fault.

 

[Weldinator]

Look at old diesel cars where the petrol cap area has rusted due to spilt diesel not been cleaned up. Then there's possible leaking brake fluid, or oil/water pipes etc. A bit like what powder coating does when it has any of those solutions on. It may not rust right away but it will still damage that will end up rusting.

My engine goes to around 110 Degrees C in slow traffic and warms up quick unlike being in the sunshine where the panels are already warm, expansion etc. Cast iron is usually cooler to the touch than what thin steel is.

As ive learned, if its worth doing its worth doing well, even if it costs a bit more and the project takes longer.

 

[the snooper]

Diesel is an oil and will inhibit rust, ive not know it to destroy paint either so if the area around the fuel cap has rusted then its down to damage or bad design / water ingress

 

[philsmin]

I've always used Japlac on engines, never found a need to use anything else