Welding vertically ...

[WouldBWelder]

Simple question ... any tips?

Faster wire speed?, weld up or down?

I'm thinking down ... ?

 

[daf45]

Straight down tends not to give enough penetration mate.
We were taught two ways on a course earlier this year.
The correct way was difficult to do and harder to explain!
Pattern of movement went: into centre, pause, then left and pause, back across centre to right and pause, then back into centre just above where you started and so on....
Sounds daft but a bit like a kids drawing of a Xmas tree.
For those that couldn't get that right after a couple of weeks you could turn the settings up and put a first run in going UP and then back down over it side to side.
Hope that makes sense. Of the six or so positional welds we had to learn it was the one I found hardest - so it'll be good to hear what the experts say.

 

[oddball90]

With mig i weld down with a little higher wire speed and plenty of side to side movement, arc i always go up.

 

[Cappy]

Can't tell you much about the MIG welding method, but for stick it's like this:



The accompanying text is as follows

For the first run a close arc directed well into the centre of the joint is essential, no weaving motion being required. The electrode should bisect the angle between the plates with the electrode pointing upwards as shown.

For the second run the tip of the elctrode is moved in a triangular weave. The arc is struck centrally on the first deposit and after a short pause , moved slightly downwards and to the left, so that it is now directed at the junction between the left hand plate and the first weld. After a short pause the electrode is moved to a similar position on the right hand plate and a pause again before returning to the central postion by an upward movement to the left.

The process is repeated in such a way that the weld progresses in an upward direction. This process keeps the top surface of the weld sloping down from the corner so that the slag runs away and does not become trapped.

******************

When I'm doing this, having struck the arc in the centre I count
one (arc to left)
pause
and two (across to right)
pause
and three (back to centre)
pause

and so on.

The choice of rods will also make a difference, e.g. Oelikon Fincord M (for me) has too fluid a flux which results in the weld pool 'sagging' and giving a rounded bead, whereas Vodex slag freezes quickly and gives a nice flat face to the weld.

I have friend who does quite a lot of MIG welding and he says that he uses gas for any downhand work, but gasless for positional stuff as the slag helps to hold the weld pool in place.

Hope this may help.

 

[scarecrow]

[

The choice of rods will also make a difference, e.g. Oelikon Fincord M (for me) has too fluid a flux which results in the weld pool 'sagging' and giving a rounded bead, whereas Vodex slag freezes quickly and gives a nice flat face to the weld.



Hope this may help.[/QUOTE]

Oelikon overcord c are very good for welding in all positions and particularly good for vertical down I think they have a fast freeze flux as well

 

[snowcat]

Cappys method will pass over to the MIG... Weld uphand not down unless you are very skilled, as your get zero pen.. Less Volts, lower wire speed, use the Christmas tree not forgeting the pause....Oh and right again on the fluxed wires...the duel shields will weld perfect in position.. (tho at £60 a roll they should) and I normally just go straight up with the MIG in 1 pass.

 

[Welderpaul]

Structural = Weld uphand
Just filling gaps = Weld downhand.

 

[snowcat]

Just filling gaps = Weld downhand.

Or use an M10 bolt, Or 5mm rod defluxed

 

[Hitch]

Im with that Paul

If its going to take any force, weld it uphand, if its only decorative, downhill.
Anything under about 3mm thick , will weld perfectly well downhand though.

Less power and wire for downhand, but even lower for uphand.