Welding leads for my Oxford Arc Welder

[Sam.McAlister]

Hello, I have a bit of an issue. At my place of work myself and fellow engineers use a mobile arc welder to do a magnitude of fabricating jobs around the factory. We had noticed that both leads (welding lead & earth lead) were very damaged and were overdue to be replaced. So I was given the task of overhauling this welder and sourcing some new welding leads. I discovered that the outer diameter (conductor & insulation) was 16mm and the inner diameter (just the conductor) was in the range of 9-10mm. I also discovered that the leads need to be rated for 110A of current and 10M long each. I gave this information to out storeman who began chasing our suppliers to see if they had anything in stock. After 2 weeks, nothing. So I have come here to see if anyone knows anywhere I can source these welding leads. Thank you.

 

[Cobbler]

Try the forum sponsor, click on the logo on the top right of the header. I would think any welding supplier could make up leads for you though.

 

[zzr1200]

25mm sq cable for 10 metres length..

These are all very good supplier options:-

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[GRW]

You can buy double-insulated, very flexible quality cable by the metre in sizes about 10mm up to 240mm+.
Where I worked we'd buy from Triangle Cables or Eland Cables.
It was far cheaper to buy cable and make up lugged / Powerlock ended cable sets than to buy them pre-made.

 

[Agroshield]

Should we ask the OP about the end details of the cables?

If it is a traditional oil cooled Oxford, I think the machine end is cable lugs.

If that is so, the stud diameter would need to be known.

Similarly, I think most earth clamps need a cable lug at their end of the cable to attach.

Unless his workplace has the facility to crimp lugs, paying a supplier to make a full set of leads might be the easiest option. Sending them photos of the ends of the existing cables will assist them. You would need to find a tradtional welding supplier who can do this, rather thn a box shifter who only sells pre-made items.

For the non-earth cable, I would have a female dinse so I could have a choice of electrode holders on a fly lead.

 

[Shedendman]

@Sam.McAlister what oxford is it by chance just curious
Your storeman didnt look very far

 

[hotponyshoes]

Should we ask the OP about the end details of the cables?

If it is a traditional oil cooled Oxford, I think the machine end is cable lugs.

If that is so, the stud diameter would need to be known.

Similarly, I think most earth clamps need a cable lug at their end of the cable to attach.

Unless his workplace has the facility to crimp lugs, paying a supplier to make a full set of leads might be the easiest option. Sending them photos of the ends of the existing cables will assist them. You would need to find a tradtional welding supplier who can do this, rather thn a box shifter who only sells pre-made items.

For the non-earth cable, I would have a female dinse so I could have a choice of electrode holders on a fly lead.

That's how I'd do it.
For 10m leads I'd make up leads the length of the thing I was working on then a pair of extension leads for the distance between that thing and the welder with dinse connections between.

For example, if I was making up 3.5m chassis I'd make my arc lead 4m with a 6m extension.
Then, when the 4m lead gets worn out from dragging it over the metal edges of the chassis I only need to replace 4m of cable.

Same if I was welding up 2.5m high steel frame buildings. One 3m and one 7m. Then I'd only ever need to replace the 7m section that had been dragging over the gravel rather than the 3m that spent its life hanging in free air.


Even in my own workshop (general purpose) I have leads and extensions.
10m is difficult to handle and store. 2x 5m is less than half the effort to coil up twice.

Also, I have a few different styles of earth clamp, small, large, magnetic. Far cheaper to put a couple of meters of cable and a dinse on each than buy 30m of cable.

Regarding the point about the Lugs on the welder end, any decent supplier will be able to crimp lugs on for you. Failing that you can get lugs that clamp on if you don't have the crimping tool. I'd recommend a proper crimp though (not done in a vice) as you get less fraying with movement so the connection will last longer.