water based paint

[dellenty69]

writing in here due too the fact i cant find any foums that are spray paint related. so iv noticed a few responces on this forum from people asking about paint so im giving it a shot.


here we go...

primerd my rear quater panel using lechler primer.
then flatted that down smooth
painted it with water based paint mixed at a 3:1 ratio (is that the right ratio)
then lacquerd it and left it too harden in this lovely heat wave we are having. (yes i am painting it on the drive haha)

so that hardens all looking good bar 1 slight run i had and the fact i diddnt put much thinners in the lacquer so it's pretty orange peely.

then i rub the lacquer down with a 2000 soft pad to remove orange peel.
then got the polished and G3 out, it came up GORGEOUS....untill i caught the edge of the polisher on the paint resulting in it ripping through the lacquer, base coat and primer.

so im not left with a gouge out the paint. and iv found you cant feather the paint out, it just started feeling off when i got on it with any production paper.

what the hell do i do now?

sorry for the long thread, hope sombody can help..

james

 

[Bigjoe]

Ooops! Don't you just love it when that happens, ive never used water based but in that situation with 2k i would repaint the panel after flatting it pack,is it a solid,metallic or pearlesent paint?

Bigjoe

 

[malcolm]

Sounds like it's still a bit soft if it won't wet flat properly. You are wet flatting not dry flatting? I've never used waterbased, but even cellulose will take a week to harden enough for polishing, and waterbased has a reputation for taking longer. How long ago was it painted?

I'd be inclined to leave it a couple of weeks to harden - then you might find you can flat and respray the local area. Otherwise probably stripping the whole panels and respraying would be the quick option.

Couple of professional sprayers on the forum from time to time - they'll probably be able to give more exact advice.

 

[dellenty69]

oh right, na the paint drys realy quickly realy. as i done it on the drive it had a constant air flow over it, and you can almost watch it dry.

thing is i want to flatt that area down and feather it out. but i cant because its peeling lol.

hopfully one of the pro's can give me a hand. cheers for the help tho guys, much appreciated!

james

 

[Wozzaaah]

The paint might be dry to the touch but it doesn't fully harden for a while,I gather water-based paints take ages. If you have laquered it then I reckon your only choice is to flat it all down and start again if you want it to look good. A localised repair will look pretty awful if it's in an obvious area.

 

[Bigjoe]

yep,definately sounds as if its not fully dried,is it a trade water based or something like auto-air with clear over the top?

Bigjoe

 

[Bruce]

I dont want to hijack a thread, but the Boss's car bonet was keyed by some scroat who surprisingly could spell cnut.
Now she cant park for toffee and down both sides of the car are a goodly number of scratches and dents so I dont really want to justify the cost of having the bonet proffessionaly resprayed. I have a sip compressor and touch up spray gun and the colour code, but the paint, unless I have it mixed I suppose, available is water based too. I have been putting the job off because of the episode with Flanders workshirts and the fact that I was told that you need to bake / oven / whatever the paint for it to dry properly. Is this true, and could I do a light filler job, light sand and spray over? The colour is Astra Petrol Blue a pearlesque cum metalic colour.
When doing the bike I made the big error of adding a laquer over an enamel on the first try and the results were interesting to say the least.

 

[Wozzaaah]

You can still get cellulose and synthetic paints Bruce, these dry much quicker than water-based ones, especially cellulose. There's no real need to bake any paint, bodyshops only do it to speed up the hardening process so they can polish it quicker. Take the paint code and if possible a panel (or eve the fuel filler flap) to a paint supplier and get them to mix you up 1/2 a litre of base coat. Lacquer usually comes in 1 litre tins and doesn't require thinning, it goes on neat. I'd suggest to use a high-build primer too (filler-primer), that way you may not need to use filler if it's only light scratches.

 

[Bruce]

Thanks Woz. It's something that really has been bugging me. Funny how you can live with scratches but something like that made us feel as if we had been violated.

What I think I'll do is try a test patch on the underside of the bonet and if that comes out alright I'll have a go on the top. I found with the last cellulose mix I had made, that once thinned there were very slight colour variations between the coats and thinned mixes. The brown pigment seemed to seperate out a bit on drying if a touch too much thinners was added. In the end it made no difference as I was doing the entire bike at the time, but the car is a different matter. Of course I know nothing about spray painting, but I learned enough to have a massive respect for those who do the job proffessionally.

 

[Julian]

Im not an expert but every time ive used Lacquer ive added hardener and thinners as again IMHO Lacquer does need both to aid both spraying and drying, I am looking into using water based paints as a Mate uses nothing but this since, it first come out, and it does dry but takes longer.he sprays it leaving a little time between coats 15 mins or so for the first and he uses a slightly bigger nozzle 1.5 or 1.6 on his guns
At the moment he still use's 2pack lacquer to clear it
I use a mixing jug with 2-1 marks on it as it show Lacquer,hardener lines for 2-1 mix and 10% for the thinners

 

[912uk]

I was told you can only get 2pk clear laqures at the moment anyway but in time that will change.. I can't see me rushing out to buyit though

 

[dunsdale]

there are water based clearcoats available but they are not in wide use, and they are very expensive. Sikkens make one it goes on like milk then cure's completely clear.

 

[breezer]

That sounds like the water based varnishes you can get for woodworking.

TBH if the price comes down I think it'll be good, better than breathing in all those fumes, and it makes cleaning tools easier

 

[engybenjy]

I thought 2 pack paints were banned due to the nasties in them??? I'll check with my friend who is a sprayer by trade ( and a good one at that for a young lad!! )
Cheers,