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brightspark
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you can pay anything from £400 up to 900 ish to get something nice just make sure theres no wear on whatever u get .most advertise it just needs a clean up repaint and some adjustment in other words its probably clapped out
if u see one going take someone with u that knows what to look out for . dont just buy on trust . then u will need an inverter for it as most are 3 phase so budget for that as well it might take ages to get a good one 
but dont just jump in head firstOk, I couldn't resist, but just actually add some info:
1. If you don't know how to check out a lathe for play (at least as much as you can if its unpowered / in a reasonable amount of time), then take someone who can help, or find out what to look for.
2. lathes.co.uk has lots of info on most lathes if you find something and want some info on it.
3. if its 3 phase, you can often do an easy motor swap to single phase, instead of running an inverter. Remember to check the phases of the coolant pump as well though.
Its really a totally open ended question. Try to define what you're looking for. Why are you looking for a lathe? You can't get one that does everything, so what kind of capacity do you imagine you'll need? (Then get one or two sizes bigger).
Al.
1. If you don't know how to check out a lathe for play (at least as much as you can if its unpowered / in a reasonable amount of time), then take someone who can help, or find out what to look for.
2. lathes.co.uk has lots of info on most lathes if you find something and want some info on it.
3. if its 3 phase, you can often do an easy motor swap to single phase, instead of running an inverter. Remember to check the phases of the coolant pump as well though.
Its really a totally open ended question. Try to define what you're looking for. Why are you looking for a lathe? You can't get one that does everything, so what kind of capacity do you imagine you'll need? (Then get one or two sizes bigger).
Al.
Lathes
as previous 3 replies, but I would also bear in mind Imports, lathes from Machine mart, etc, you may well pick up a damned good lathe for a few hundred quid and it might well be 30 years old, stick with the long established brand names. + its going to last you at least the same again, I cant honestly say that for some of the imports,
I was in Bede tools today, they have a good selection + you get some back up from a company, Barry is expecting a Cracking lathe in very soon, almost new yet old, I think it was college or school.
I have no direct contact or interest in his business but he aint gonna do you, and hes a real fair bloke, Hear in the North East, but he will Pallet and ship for you,
inverters, converters, direct drives Nottingham.
http://www.bedetools.com/index.html
Stan
Its a Boxford 330 with almost no use
as previous 3 replies, but I would also bear in mind Imports, lathes from Machine mart, etc, you may well pick up a damned good lathe for a few hundred quid and it might well be 30 years old, stick with the long established brand names. + its going to last you at least the same again, I cant honestly say that for some of the imports,
I was in Bede tools today, they have a good selection + you get some back up from a company, Barry is expecting a Cracking lathe in very soon, almost new yet old, I think it was college or school.
I have no direct contact or interest in his business but he aint gonna do you, and hes a real fair bloke, Hear in the North East, but he will Pallet and ship for you,
inverters, converters, direct drives Nottingham.
http://www.bedetools.com/index.html
Stan
Its a Boxford 330 with almost no use
Last edited:
shenion
Tool Pack Rat
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Good point
I'm on my 3rd lathe. First was a watchmakers lathe (Sherline). Very accurate but too weak to even turn half of what it was capable. Just too small anyway. Put in a drill chuck on the tailstock and a 1/4" bit and you had 3" to work with.
2nd was one I did not research. A 6x18" (6" diameter) that was probably one of the sloppiest designs ever built. Had a 1/2" spindle. Yes one half inch diameter. No way you could turn anything over an inch or so without tailstock support. Many with bent spindles. Had threading capability so did learn from it.
Now on a 12x36" Atlas/Craftsman. Works well for hobby use but definitely not a production lathe.
Most of my work is turning parts to repair equipment. Just finished turning a new carb bowl for a Chinese junk 4-wheeler (original **** poor Zamac casting.) Make lots of bearings or replacement parts for lawnmowers.
I 'll probably never turn something 12" in diameter, but figure half the max size is what it is designed for. If I was turning something that big, I'd want a much heavier lathe (this is only 300lbs.)
The 12x36 was from a 2nd owner (made in 1941). He had taken good care of it was near spotless and dripping oil like it should.
IMHO, the more a seller says what is wrong with the lathe, the more I trust them. Beware of repainted lathes; people buy them, repaint them to sell for more. Most know nothing about them.
Age is meaningless as older ones can be a better value. I put the original price of my 12x36 in an inflation calculator and it comes up over $4000 in todays prices.
Not much you can check without an involved process with a dial gauge. Simple checks like the carriage, cross slide and compound move through their travel with no tight or loose spots. Look at gear teeth that they have a normal profile (flat top teeth same size and valley between teeth.) Same for feed screws.
Lathes.co.uk is great for info. If you find a lathe, go on the Yahoo! user group for that lathe and browse the messages for common problems. Ask advice there.
Check parts availability. If it is old, check ebay. There was a Delta 12x36 lathe for sale here missing a tailstock and chuck. I did a search and could not find parts for it anywhere. Also found they tend to destroy the gears if the shifter gets loose. Not really worth the price. My 12x36 I can put the model # in Sears.com and up comes a parts list. Many are not longer available (major castings) but not bad for a 70-year old lathe.
Expect to pay as much or not more on tooling as for a used lathe. Mine came with a 5" 3-jaw and 6" 4-jaw chuck, steady rest, tailstock, milling arbor and milling adapter, three drill chucks, a quick-change toolpost and a pile of tool bits including indexed carbide cutters and some boring bars. So, was a steal at the price. Only major expense was adding a set of collets and making a collet chuck.
All I know is there is an old fella at the end of th street with a lathe and I've been calling on him for favours quite a lot. All of them are different jobs which I'd never have predicted I'd need doing, but just sort of crop up.
I'd like a lathe ready for any such machining requirements, and so I could learn how to use one.
Some good tips there - avoid any slop, take someone who knows, avoid nicely repainted lathes etc... thanks, more tips welcome
I'd like a lathe ready for any such machining requirements, and so I could learn how to use one.
Some good tips there - avoid any slop, take someone who knows, avoid nicely repainted lathes etc... thanks, more tips welcome
As others have said Id say buy a well known old time brand, Colchester, Harrison etc etc.
You will be able to keep it going forever with new or used parts. Try that with a cheng ming or whatever.
Mine is a 1959 Colchester Triumph, the age isnt a problem at all as long as you can work in imperial.
Large 3 Phase machines can be very cheap indeed as once they are old enough to be obsolete in industry they are harder to sell, industry doesnt want them and hobby users want small machines. and of course people would always pay more for single phase and not have this to worry about.
Phase coverters / inverters can make a lot of sense, once you have shelled out for one for your new Lathe you can take advantage of other bargain price 3 phase equipment knowing you can already run it.
I have done this and now have Lathe, Milling machine, drill and compressor all 3 phase.
The most simple check for a worn lathe if you only want to remember one useful thing is to have the toolpost near to the chuck (most used position) and try to lift the whole carriage, feel how much play up and down.
Wind right over to the right of the bed (least used position) and do the same.
Play alone isnt the problem, it can be adjusted usually, difference in the amount of play between ends is wear, you can never get rid of this difference.
Some can have massive amounts and theres nothing economical you can do about it.
If the worn machine is cheap as chips and you are doing fairly simple work go for it, if you want to do very accurate work including screwcutting walk away.
You will find a Lathe very satisfying to own when you use it but please be careful.
A couple of years someone at work got wrapped in a Lathe, lost one and a half fingers and no doubt suffered a lot of pain in the rest of his hand, arm body etc while the fire brigade cut a part of the job he was doing off so it could go to hospital for him to be unwrapped from it.
Not a nice story but you need to know that this can happen. I dont mean to be patronising but heres some tips for all using a Lathe.
Bigger machine = more danger (more inertia).
No loose clothes.
No gloves (very important)
No long loose hair.
Dont lock the workshop door when you are in it using the lathe.
Now that we have mobile phones keep it with you if you are on your own.
Never leave the chuck key in the chuck in case you forget and start the spindle.
Think about your standing position, legs apart so you are less likely to loose balance and fall in or reach out.
Dont site your Lathe where someone else could be working close behind you.
Obvious really but wear eye protection.
Happy Lathe hunting.
You will be able to keep it going forever with new or used parts. Try that with a cheng ming or whatever.
Mine is a 1959 Colchester Triumph, the age isnt a problem at all as long as you can work in imperial.
Large 3 Phase machines can be very cheap indeed as once they are old enough to be obsolete in industry they are harder to sell, industry doesnt want them and hobby users want small machines. and of course people would always pay more for single phase and not have this to worry about.
Phase coverters / inverters can make a lot of sense, once you have shelled out for one for your new Lathe you can take advantage of other bargain price 3 phase equipment knowing you can already run it.
I have done this and now have Lathe, Milling machine, drill and compressor all 3 phase.
The most simple check for a worn lathe if you only want to remember one useful thing is to have the toolpost near to the chuck (most used position) and try to lift the whole carriage, feel how much play up and down.
Wind right over to the right of the bed (least used position) and do the same.
Play alone isnt the problem, it can be adjusted usually, difference in the amount of play between ends is wear, you can never get rid of this difference.
Some can have massive amounts and theres nothing economical you can do about it.
If the worn machine is cheap as chips and you are doing fairly simple work go for it, if you want to do very accurate work including screwcutting walk away.
You will find a Lathe very satisfying to own when you use it but please be careful.
A couple of years someone at work got wrapped in a Lathe, lost one and a half fingers and no doubt suffered a lot of pain in the rest of his hand, arm body etc while the fire brigade cut a part of the job he was doing off so it could go to hospital for him to be unwrapped from it.
Not a nice story but you need to know that this can happen. I dont mean to be patronising but heres some tips for all using a Lathe.
Bigger machine = more danger (more inertia).
No loose clothes.
No gloves (very important)
No long loose hair.
Dont lock the workshop door when you are in it using the lathe.
Now that we have mobile phones keep it with you if you are on your own.
Never leave the chuck key in the chuck in case you forget and start the spindle.
Think about your standing position, legs apart so you are less likely to loose balance and fall in or reach out.
Dont site your Lathe where someone else could be working close behind you.
Obvious really but wear eye protection.
Happy Lathe hunting.
aametalmaster
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- Salem Ohio USA
Here is one from the SBL forum it may be near you...Bob
HI ALL
HAVE TO REPORT THAT MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH A "SOUTH BEND LATHE" IS OVER DUE TO SEVERAL OPERATIONS PREVENTING ME FROM TAKING CARE OF MY SOUTH BEND......THIS HAS LEAD TO ME PUTTING IT UP FOR SALE.
SHOULD ANYONE BE INTERESTED IN BUYING IT, IT IS LOCATED IN LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND.
IT IS A "LIGHT 10" ABOUT THE MID 50's 16" BETWEEN CENTRES, IN GOOD WORKING ORDER, HAS BEEN COMPLETELY STRIPPED AND REPAINTED, NEW FELTS IN GEARBOX, POWERFEEDS, ONLY HAS A 3 JAW, FACEPLATE, CATCHPLATE, CENTRES.
IF YOU ARE INTERESTED WILL SEND AS MANY PICS AS YOU WANT PRICE £500 O.N.O
CONTACT ME ON mikestightlines@blueyonder.co.uk
Mike Broadbent
HI ALL
HAVE TO REPORT THAT MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH A "SOUTH BEND LATHE" IS OVER DUE TO SEVERAL OPERATIONS PREVENTING ME FROM TAKING CARE OF MY SOUTH BEND......THIS HAS LEAD TO ME PUTTING IT UP FOR SALE.
SHOULD ANYONE BE INTERESTED IN BUYING IT, IT IS LOCATED IN LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND.
IT IS A "LIGHT 10" ABOUT THE MID 50's 16" BETWEEN CENTRES, IN GOOD WORKING ORDER, HAS BEEN COMPLETELY STRIPPED AND REPAINTED, NEW FELTS IN GEARBOX, POWERFEEDS, ONLY HAS A 3 JAW, FACEPLATE, CATCHPLATE, CENTRES.
IF YOU ARE INTERESTED WILL SEND AS MANY PICS AS YOU WANT PRICE £500 O.N.O
CONTACT ME ON mikestightlines@blueyonder.co.uk
Mike Broadbent
Jim what no one has asked is what do you need to do with it size wise.
Secondly i assume you are new to lathes, in which case i strongly suggest something low powere and or belt driven. Belt drive can be slackened off should anything untoward happen, been there done it many times with a Myford, touch wood not a cat in hells chance of slowing or stopping what i have now.
Lastly it stands a very good chance of any cast iron style that it will be clapped out, take some one with you and check what various others have said above.
Bit greedy myself only got three here and another Harrison M300 coming in three weeks at bargain price circa £600 beds and slides mint slight wear to cross lead screw. Would have preferred bigger though Master 2500 size.
Worth a look for something small on that site 290486150847
Likewise on two counts not for a first timer but will last further decades same as 11" 170551160080 Would add to the untrained the buyer would have to buy a chuck since the Pratt jaws are unavailable plus backing plate £76 an L00 fit. 11" is the round head.
Secondly i assume you are new to lathes, in which case i strongly suggest something low powere and or belt driven. Belt drive can be slackened off should anything untoward happen, been there done it many times with a Myford, touch wood not a cat in hells chance of slowing or stopping what i have now.
Lastly it stands a very good chance of any cast iron style that it will be clapped out, take some one with you and check what various others have said above.
Bit greedy myself only got three here and another Harrison M300 coming in three weeks at bargain price circa £600 beds and slides mint slight wear to cross lead screw. Would have preferred bigger though Master 2500 size.
Worth a look for something small on that site 290486150847
Likewise on two counts not for a first timer but will last further decades same as 11" 170551160080 Would add to the untrained the buyer would have to buy a chuck since the Pratt jaws are unavailable plus backing plate £76 an L00 fit. 11" is the round head.
Pete.
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- Kent, UK
That's a nice looking lathe, fr £500 I'd certainly consider it.
http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/images/com_adsmanager/ads/5105a.jpg
Id say thats the perfect machine.
All the features and build quality of a bigger machine but in the right size.
Its what I wanted to be honest, just the bigger Triumph was cheaper.
aametalmaster
Member
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- Salem Ohio USA
Thats like 800 US Dollars right? That is a good price if it is close to you. I have the same lathe but a wee bit longer...Bob
Flathead_Dave
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More Southbend info than you can shake a stick at.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/
