- Thread starter rosinante
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daleyd
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Should be fine, for ultimate peace of mind make sure the current limit on the vsd goes down low enough for your motor rated current, that way your motor will be fully protected by the drive, but even if it didn’t I would just set it as low as possible and it will run no problem (it just won’t have the “proper” current protection in the event of something bad happening...)
Agroshield
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Are you looking for the ability to vary the speed (frequency) or just to get a 3-phase motor running? I keep hearing good things about an Eaton-made device that is like a dumbed-down VFD. A lot of the functionality is not there but it is relatively cheap.
daedalusminos
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I've got a Chinese VFD installed in my metal lathe...no problems with the unit though since I needed advanced features, the manual took some studying.
rosinante
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Hi , I had functions , ramp accel variable speeds reverse , that's all I need really , it's on a wood lathe , I built the lathe in the 80s but the vfd transformed it to another level ,
Cheers
What model did you use pls
Cheers
daedalusminos
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Mine is a Huanyang 4kW though I'm using it for a 2.2kW lathe.
Hi,
I too use an Huanyang VFD having bought it years ago and it's been absolutely brilliant; it's a 2.2KW but runs my lathes each having a 1.1KW motor installed; both lathes have identical inverter rated motors but with switching I can run one lathe at a time. I'd recommend buying a larger sized VFD than one rated for your motor; these VFD's have adjustable parameter settings for motors so aren't fixed to just one sized motor; for a novice they are difficult to install and can prove dangerous as can anything on mains supply.
Kind regards, Colin.
I too use an Huanyang VFD having bought it years ago and it's been absolutely brilliant; it's a 2.2KW but runs my lathes each having a 1.1KW motor installed; both lathes have identical inverter rated motors but with switching I can run one lathe at a time. I'd recommend buying a larger sized VFD than one rated for your motor; these VFD's have adjustable parameter settings for motors so aren't fixed to just one sized motor; for a novice they are difficult to install and can prove dangerous as can anything on mains supply.
Kind regards, Colin.
Agroshield
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Yes, no, maybe.
That reply is about as much use as your question (i.e. none).
Huang make many models of inverter. Tell us the actual model you have found and provide a link to the manual (i.e. ask the question properly) and you will receive a proper reply.
You see this - have a look inside it - the damage will be obvious. Very often it's a mains noise filtering capacitor, the vsd will usually run without them. Preferably though you can just get replacements from cpc farnell, solder in and away you go. I've done a few, one last week.
rosinante
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Hi , this was a spectacular failure, took out the ring main breaker , won't run at all and the magic smoke ( breath of Lucas) has escaped, shame really as it has been running lovely for past 18months, cost a tenner with 1hp motor and chuck , sold chuck for 40 quids, motor fitted straight onto lathe, even the pulleys fitted , just had to cut a keyway in pulley , did that with 1/8 ins mortice chisel.
Hi,
This is the type of VFD I have but it's more modern than mine because it has the speed control potentiometer fitted whereas I had to wire my potentiometer in. If you want to remotely control the VFD as I have then you don't need heavy switch controls just signal switching at 5VDC or 10VDC; it's a long time since I wired my VFD and the instruction manual took a lot of understanding; I'm not a sparky and these VFD's can kill if messed around with.
Here's the Jubilee I had in 2013 that was remotely controlled from the VFD showing a number of controls enclosed neatly inside a motor terminal box; it worked perfectly then I upgraded to a Graduate lathe and sold the Jubilee but retained the VFD and controls.
Having set up the VFD now in the garage which I converted to full time workshop I ran the Graduate for quite a while using the VFD then later I bought a scrap Lorch precision engineering lathe which I rebuilt but I had two identical inverter rated 1.5hp motors one already on the Graduate so the second was fitted to the Lorch; I still run both the Graduate and Lorch through one VFD but with assorted switching; the switching only allows one lathe at a time to run; the motor supply is directly to each motor but the remote controls are connected by screened cable this being very important indeed because these VFD's are badly affected by "cross talk" which really did catch me out; I eventually after no end of hassle and head scratching found even running CAT5 signal cable too near the motor supply cables gave problems but once I found this out I rerouted the signal cables away from the motor supply cables and used CAT6 cable; both lathes are now very happy.
I won't go on at length regarding switching and cables etc. partly because I've forgotten many of the details and mostly because I don't want to electrocute anyone or end up in court being sued for damages.
Here's my Graduate showing speed potentiometer and a double throw toggle switch giving forward and reverse with middle position off. Shielded cable must be used otherwise strange things happen.
Here's a broader picture showing the set up; the VFD is inside the wooden cabinet for dust protection; the two heavy cables from below are the motor supply cables; the large heavy duty rotary switch switches power between lathes; out of sight to the right of the cabinet is a small box having a toggle switch this controls the signals switching between lathes; I set the rotary switch for the Graduate also the signal control for the Graduate and the Graduate runs; same ide for the Lorch; I've never seen two lathes run like this from a single VFD but it can be done but helped because both lathe motors are identical.
The page above was readily available when I bought my VFD. The dotted eclipse around the potentiometer indicates shielded cable must be used.
Just passing a bit of time because its too cold to play out again.
Kind regards, Colin.
This is the type of VFD I have but it's more modern than mine because it has the speed control potentiometer fitted whereas I had to wire my potentiometer in. If you want to remotely control the VFD as I have then you don't need heavy switch controls just signal switching at 5VDC or 10VDC; it's a long time since I wired my VFD and the instruction manual took a lot of understanding; I'm not a sparky and these VFD's can kill if messed around with.
Here's the Jubilee I had in 2013 that was remotely controlled from the VFD showing a number of controls enclosed neatly inside a motor terminal box; it worked perfectly then I upgraded to a Graduate lathe and sold the Jubilee but retained the VFD and controls.
Having set up the VFD now in the garage which I converted to full time workshop I ran the Graduate for quite a while using the VFD then later I bought a scrap Lorch precision engineering lathe which I rebuilt but I had two identical inverter rated 1.5hp motors one already on the Graduate so the second was fitted to the Lorch; I still run both the Graduate and Lorch through one VFD but with assorted switching; the switching only allows one lathe at a time to run; the motor supply is directly to each motor but the remote controls are connected by screened cable this being very important indeed because these VFD's are badly affected by "cross talk" which really did catch me out; I eventually after no end of hassle and head scratching found even running CAT5 signal cable too near the motor supply cables gave problems but once I found this out I rerouted the signal cables away from the motor supply cables and used CAT6 cable; both lathes are now very happy.
I won't go on at length regarding switching and cables etc. partly because I've forgotten many of the details and mostly because I don't want to electrocute anyone or end up in court being sued for damages.
Here's my Graduate showing speed potentiometer and a double throw toggle switch giving forward and reverse with middle position off. Shielded cable must be used otherwise strange things happen.
Here's a broader picture showing the set up; the VFD is inside the wooden cabinet for dust protection; the two heavy cables from below are the motor supply cables; the large heavy duty rotary switch switches power between lathes; out of sight to the right of the cabinet is a small box having a toggle switch this controls the signals switching between lathes; I set the rotary switch for the Graduate also the signal control for the Graduate and the Graduate runs; same ide for the Lorch; I've never seen two lathes run like this from a single VFD but it can be done but helped because both lathe motors are identical.
The page above was readily available when I bought my VFD. The dotted eclipse around the potentiometer indicates shielded cable must be used.
Just passing a bit of time because its too cold to play out again.
Kind regards, Colin.
rosinante
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Hi that's a lovely setup puts mine to shame, my lathe is home made, 56lb weight milled down with 1 inch plummer bearings , 8tpi thread , tailstock "recovered" from Grytviken South Georgia in 1982, 6 inch centre height, bed 2 8ft I beams , saddle and tool posts , rests all home made, have made everything from duffle coat toggles for a Cindy doll to 6 ft newel posts ex 6x6 laminated pitch pine. Did all the bowl and box things years ago , last project was half a dozen nest boxes which all sold.All my flat tools are made from old planer blades and expanding remer blades for the small stuff , only use 1 or two gouges now, 12mm bowl gouge for roughing, 6 mm for smaller details,
Thank you for you informative reply
Thank you for you informative reply
Hi,
No the signal switches are throw over toggle types; on/off/on like these;
Only low voltage (5VDC or 10VDC) signal is involved but I like to be well on top and the switches are cheap enough. Up is on; middle is off; down is on. Nothing fancy; if the toggle is up it remains up; if the toggle is down it remains down until the toggle is moved manually to another position.
Kind regards, Colin.
No the signal switches are throw over toggle types; on/off/on like these;
Only low voltage (5VDC or 10VDC) signal is involved but I like to be well on top and the switches are cheap enough. Up is on; middle is off; down is on. Nothing fancy; if the toggle is up it remains up; if the toggle is down it remains down until the toggle is moved manually to another position.
Kind regards, Colin.
