vertical rod recomendations?

[theoss]

I have done a quick search and I am sure this will have been covered in detail somewhere.

Been attempting to weld the end back on a container and some of the welding has been decent, some of it rubbish. Since I struggle a bit with vertical and haven't welded for almost a year anyway, technique is probably the biggest issue. I had a box of chipped, damp elland rods. I use a Murex 141i, a fairly decent machine.

Would anyone like to recomend a rod that may help?

 

[matt1978]

A Rutile type electrode would be best suited provided that there isn't any mettalurgical reasons to use any other such as Basic etc.

The thing to look at is not so much the electrode type, but the electrode diameter. How thick is the container that you want to weld, usually a 2.5mm Dia is preferered for the verticle up root.

 

[cookie munsta]

e6013, e7014, it does matter as to up or down, can we assume that no more than 5 or so mm mild steel etc, outside corner maybe leave a 1.5 or so gap and side to side, wouldn't xmas tree it.

 

[theoss]

Any particular makes best suited to vertical work?- I have used other rods before which just seemed to work better. Was hit and miss between a tidy weld and blobs of slag.

Not heavy stuff, just a normal freight container with corrugated sides.

 

[scarecrow]

have a read through this tread should give you some pointers

 

[wyn]

Could well be "Cor-Ten" your trying to weld if it's a shipping container....i'm not too certain if that would make any difference.

 

[Drains]

theoss - the clue was in your original question. Damp. chipped rods will give you horrible welds! Use decent quality 6013s (not from Machine mart or Lidls, etc), and keep them dry. If you want to try easier positional rods, 7016s are great. 7018s are good too. Both those need to be DRY or they won't work.
If you want a rod that can work in any old conditions, 6011/6010 are easy to use in the vertical and when damp, but the weld doesn't look great, you should do a hot pass to drive out hydrogen from the weld, and you need a high OCV to run them.

And keep a tight arc!

 

[Jay]

I have a container that I welded a pile of lugs on and brackets to, used a 2.5mm 6013 electrode made by Bohler Thyssen, 'phoenix' they are in pink packs. Cheaper than the supposedly better ones in the blue packs that they make.

 

[Weldingartisan]

I take it this is not a commercial repair and the container will no longer be hoisted with 20-30 tonne in it? If so, STOP.
For long vertical runs on thin material it is much quicker and neater going downhand with a suitable electrode. I'd use something like an ESAB 46.00 (6013). If you wack the amps up and travel fast enough almost any 6013 will weld downhand, but that does take a bit of practice/experience. W/A

 

[asmeix6g]

....you should do a hot pass to drive out hydrogen from the weld.....

And keep a tight arc!

HUH?? Hot pass to drive out hydrogen!? thats new to me what about your root youve put in whilst its damp? hmmmmm

Anyway if it was me id buy a pack of 6010/6011s If possible run the burning gear round where your going to weld 2 foot at a time or so then stove all the verts.

That or git it with some 7018s and i mean good ones not ferex or any of that cr@p, get some bohler fox ev50s or esab 4800s ( i think theyr the kiddies) and dont weave just bang straight runs ups there flick the rod slightly up and down youll soon get the hang of it!

 

[Drains]

Well I'd think twice about calling you 1st Asme, if you don't know what the hot pass is for!

The point of the hot pass (which should be done when the stringer is still hot), is to temper the stringer, and to drive out excess hydrogen from it, both improving ductility. If you don't, there is a high risk of cracking. Ideally the hot pass will be done with something other than a 6010/11, but whatever you use, it will reduce the cold cracking problems associated with cellulosic roots.

 

[asmeix6g]

you cant repair your defective root by hot passing! occasionally when you know you aint piushed through enough you can help push through with a HP but come off it if your root is sh!te no HOT pass can fix that! this coming from the guy who thinks its ok to use damp rods! hmmm
do the hot pass while the stringer (you meant root yeh) is hot? this might be a problem on big pipework! so what then? will it all dip?
hot pass is to strengthen the root up and make sure its well fused with the parent thats why a hot pass is exactly that. its put in hot and just wide enough to blend in with the sidewalls! if you started filling you might get round half the pipe and due to the weld cooling and contracting can damage the opposite side.
And at the end of the day the guy wants to weld a container up we aint talking pipework or anything remotly near that! why would he be putting more than one pass in there anyway!?

 

[Drains]

You're right Asme, the hot pass is there to strengthen the root. That includes improving root ductility. It should be done before the root cools.

In the meantime, nobody was talking about defective roots, or repairs, or fills (where did you get that lot from?) And the question was about rods for vertical welding, even if it is for a container! You asked why I mentioned hydrogen and i've answered.