Veneered MDF chipping

[Welderpaul]

I'm cutting 18mm veneered MDF and getting some chipping of the veneer on the side which is not under the splinter guard of the track saw track. I'm reusing the waste-side cut for some large angled panels so could do with eliminating this.

I am cutting with an initial 2mm cut before cutting full depth and have also tried tape. Blade is reasonably new/sharp.

Any bright ideas?

 

[Craig-S]

Are both sides going to be highly visible? you could do the markout and cut on the opposite side so the saw teeth are entering the cut and not exiting on the good side..if that makes any sense whatsoever. or take full depth 1mm off with a router? you do have a 12mm solid carbide spiral cutter. or even more work, setup router fence as a planer and run it through as a climb cut at .5mm ish

 

[EBME2]

What about a piece of sacrificial thin MDF on top and cut through?

 

[Craig-SM]

Sometimes veneers can be so dry they will chip. You can try wiping the veneer with a damp (water) cloth first to get a bit of moisture back in before taping and cutting. You can also clamp a sacrificial piece across the piece too to sandwich it that prevents lift

 

[BrokenBiker]

just asked my father, he does a fair bit of wood working and he said the same as craig, bit of moisture from a sponge, wipe the excess and then use good quality masking tape along the cut

 

[Dozzer]

When i have cut veneered board, MDF and ply, normally run two cuts with rail saw.
First cut just bellow height of top veneer, second cut about 0.5mm bellow second veneer.
Did 8 sheets of 8x4 when i built all the cabinets & draws for Bob the expedition truck, got quite good at it.
as @Craig-S said the other thing i found was cut a tiny bit back then use trimming cutter in a router.

 

[james butler]

seem to recall someone suggesting scoring with a stanley knife before running the saw through helps reduce chipping

 

[Misterg]

I am cutting with an initial 2mm cut before cutting full depth

Try a much shallower scoring cut - maybe 0.5mm.

 

[Dozzer]

other thing, quality of blade & number of teeth.

 

[Agroshield]

As above, try a shallow cut and pulling the saw backwards to its normal direction.

Again, as above, turn it over and cut from the rear.

Again, again, clamp a piece of something else on top and cut through both.

In normal cutting, the teeth exit upwards, so will tear. It is the same as cutting with a grinder - the 'burr' is on the exit side.

Edit: if you have a spare track, lie it alongside on the waste side of the cut. Weigh it down well. You could even sacrifice the splinter guard on it and cut a little off each time.

 

[Welderpaul]

Thanks for the suggestions chaps i'll give a few a go and see if it helps!

 

[gaz1]

theres a few ways to stop tear outs

 

[addjunkie]

I found tape the top and cut from below quite successful with shower boards.

 

[dan treg]

i often cut 5mm away or so then router it