Using a car body roller on a classic car

[puffernutter]

All,
A question for the hive mind! I have asked the group specific to my car and the response was inconclusive.

I have a 1964 Rover P4 110. I bought it in 2003 as my retirement project (planning ahead) and that day is now approaching. It has been dry stored with a Triumph Stag (that has now been sold). so I have room to work. I have started removing parts to see the general condition, I know I need 4 doors and 2 wings, but under the front wings there is an amount of rust around the A pillars and front bulkhead, as well on one side at the bottom of the B pillar. There are panels available except for the bulkhead as (is typical with my luck) I was told "it doesn't usually rot there!)

My workshop is only about 8' tall, I have a portable scissor lift, but it can't get the rover too high as it is a tall car. Even then looking underneath is tricky as the lift obstructs access.

A long time ago, from this group (I think) I bought an AutoVip body roller https://autovip.uk/autovip/ this would allow me to turn the rover 90 degrees and access the underside to make sure it is solid (if not repair) and underseal.

The Rover is has had removed - both front wings, the engine and gearbox and overdrive. One door has been removed, three are present, the front and rear seats have been removed.

My question is, that as the Rover P4 is NOT a monocoque, it is a separate body and chassis, nobody seems able to give a steer if it is sensible or stupid to try and roll the Rover!

Will it distort the body, maybe overstrain rather old body/chassis fixings.

I suspect that more of you have been involve din this sort of thing than those who inhabit the P4 Guild Facebook page, so, what are your thoughts/guidance please?

Cheers

Peter

 

[rtcosic]

I cannot answer your question but in the best forum manner, I'll pose a counter question.
As it has a separate chassis why can't you unbolt the body and raise it enough to wheel the chassis out from underneath?

The only Rovers of that era I've worked on were Series Land Rovers, so I know nothing of the construction of the saloons.

 

[Roger440]

I cannot answer your question but in the best forum manner, I'll pose a counter question.
As it has a separate chassis why can't you unbolt the body and raise it enough to wheel the chassis out from underneath?

The only Rovers of that era I've worked on were Series Land Rovers, so I know nothing of the construction of the saloons.

This is the correct answer ^^^^^^

 

[CompoSimmonite]

If the chassis is 100% sound then as long as the body to chassis attachment points are also sound I can't see any problem with distortion with using a body roller. To be safe I'd make a large X between left and right door opening.

 

[8ob]

I think what puffernutter is saying is there are repairs needed that would be a lot easier to achieve if the body was off the chassis and the car tipped on its side. Sturdy old beast, can’t see this being a problem if a bit of thought was put into the mounting of the roll over jig.

Bob

 

[Dilkris]

If you have the room - I would remove as much installed weight as practically possible and simply roll it onto car tires - that's a sold beast of a car - don't over think it.

 

[OJCar]

@puffernutter The Body Roller you have linked to attaches to the wheel hubs.
They in turn are attached via the suspension to the main chassis.
So the only weight on the body mounts is that of the body.
Without sight of the condition of the body, I don't think you will have any problems at all.
The Rover body without its chassis is still very strong.
By all means add temporary bracing to the body while you cut out and replace panel work.
Leave it attached to the chassis and you have the body effectively on a jig!

Remember to drain the rear axle before tipping.

 

[keithski122]

I prefer to any substantial welding with the car resting on its wheels, far too easy to weld in twist or other movement.

 

[puffernutter]

Thank you all for the wisdom as ever. I have repairs to do on the A posts and B posts (both sides) as well as the bulkhead top and bottom. These I can do without a problem with the car the correct way up and on the scissor lift to give me a little height.

I believe the chassis is solid, I have crawled around a bit and given it a poke and I haven't been able to make any holes, what I want to use the body roller for is have the chassis presented to me face-on, so I can clean it all up, confirm it is sound and do a good job of treating/protecting it without having to grovel underneath it!

This is the top of the front bulkhead (where it doesn't normally rot!) the white line if for anybody scrapping a P4 and that's the piece I want under it! Otherwise there is a lot of compound curves to try and create (and you though my welding was bad on simpl angles....)



These are the A posts and sides of the bulkhead. I will probably do these first, before I roll it!





I haven't pictures of the bottom of the B posts. The rear wings and boot are rock solid.

Peter

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

I use a similar roller on my nissan Figaro restorations...I prefer to brace the body to prevention twisting. You'd want to be really sure the body/chassis mounts are good...perhaps inspect all the mount areas thoroughly?

 

[frank horton]

remember those original body to chassis mountings were minimal....the factory relied on the weight of the body holding it onto the frame....
dont fancy hanging the body upside down or horizontal my self....
rtcosic, has the right idea and from experience if u dont take the body off u'll wish u did at some point...
one of mine.....1928 Citroen C4......

 

[droopsnoot]

I've recently put my project car up on my rollover thingy, but it's one that fixes on the bumper mounts and I remove anything that doesn't need to be there - suspension, doors, tailgate, bonnet, because I'm not sure how much weight they can take. I have also done all the substantial welding before putting it up, and it's on the side now to make it easier to do a few small welds underneath, and to remove the underseal in case there are any further surprises that have been bogged over with the black stuff. I was pleasantly surprised to find only one fairly major section that needs attention, and I was expecting it really.

 

[Smallfry]

Not familiar with a P4, but I have a P5. Depends on the condition of the body local to the mounts, and how it is actually fixed.

If the bolts go right through, and was large washers or screw into captive nuts on a reinforced plate, then it should be OK assuming you are stripping the interior and taking doors off etc.

If body is mounted on bonded rubber isolators, than absolutely not !

 

[nickk]

I fabricated and welded these on a 105r iirc,back mid ‘80’s,very likeable and endearing well built cars I always felt,had a few friends who had them then,one who turned it to a pick up with beautifully sculpted t&g,following the contours of the body with stupidly wide wheels that spoilt the car despite his excellent work.

 

[Dilkris]

I honestly cannot imagine how you guys repair vehicles in such a state of decay - I am truly impressed.
My lack of skills in this clearly specialized area would have me digging a big hole in the garden.....