Hi guys, I realise I've only just joined and I'm straight in with a technical question, please forgive me!
I've been meaning to upgrade my Clarke torch for quite some time, mainly because I can't get spares in town. I've already replaced the puny earth lead with a Dinze socket and use the lead from my Green3K invertor welder. Still need to uprate the power cable, just not had time.
I bought a Euro conversion set a bit back, but I've only just got to look in to the swap in detail. I think I've worked out all I need to do, but I'd appreciate a second glance.
Its worth me saying as well, as much as I'd like to have a new welder that uses a Euro in the first place, I just cannot afford to spend on one, and this has been a very good welder for the work I do, as well as being small and fairly light.
So, as supplied by Machine Mart,
The gubbins all come together here, the liner, the gas line, a heavy power cable and a small switch cable...
....and go up to the torch, which has a built in gas valve, to which the heavy power cable is attached, then a metal strip on the back makes contact with the block and then feeds back down the switch wire, turning on the feed motor....
Now the Euro is differrent, I'm sure everybody knows but, it just has the gas line, the liner and two tiny switch cables going up to the torch, and the liner and gas go straight on up to the tip...
everything connecting via the Euro plug...
...and socket....
Now. I think I need to reroute the heavy power cable out of the clarke torch and on to the long brass stud which surrounds the wire as it passes out from the feed rollers yes? I think thats why there's 3 brass nuts on it, although non are used to mount it to the case, thats what the plastic moulding is for. I think I then need to tap it to feed power up to the trigger in the torch, and splice the return in to the old feed to the switch. I think I then need to fit a gas valve inside the body, triggered by the same switch wire. I'm thinking here that I don't know the current draw of the gas valve, so to save blowing the welder circuitry I'll use a 24vac relay for a 230vac gas valve if I can get one. Feasible?
I've been meaning to upgrade my Clarke torch for quite some time, mainly because I can't get spares in town. I've already replaced the puny earth lead with a Dinze socket and use the lead from my Green3K invertor welder. Still need to uprate the power cable, just not had time.
I bought a Euro conversion set a bit back, but I've only just got to look in to the swap in detail. I think I've worked out all I need to do, but I'd appreciate a second glance.
Its worth me saying as well, as much as I'd like to have a new welder that uses a Euro in the first place, I just cannot afford to spend on one, and this has been a very good welder for the work I do, as well as being small and fairly light.
So, as supplied by Machine Mart,
The gubbins all come together here, the liner, the gas line, a heavy power cable and a small switch cable...
....and go up to the torch, which has a built in gas valve, to which the heavy power cable is attached, then a metal strip on the back makes contact with the block and then feeds back down the switch wire, turning on the feed motor....
Now the Euro is differrent, I'm sure everybody knows but, it just has the gas line, the liner and two tiny switch cables going up to the torch, and the liner and gas go straight on up to the tip...
everything connecting via the Euro plug...
...and socket....
Now. I think I need to reroute the heavy power cable out of the clarke torch and on to the long brass stud which surrounds the wire as it passes out from the feed rollers yes? I think thats why there's 3 brass nuts on it, although non are used to mount it to the case, thats what the plastic moulding is for. I think I then need to tap it to feed power up to the trigger in the torch, and splice the return in to the old feed to the switch. I think I then need to fit a gas valve inside the body, triggered by the same switch wire. I'm thinking here that I don't know the current draw of the gas valve, so to save blowing the welder circuitry I'll use a 24vac relay for a 230vac gas valve if I can get one. Feasible?
