Tungsten point

[Badger1bear]

Hi guys I am using the hudmut tungsten grinder and I am only able to get a fairly stumpy point to the tungsten. Raising and lowering the diamond wheel will not effect the grinding angle within the hudmut. What do you guys think to the point length ?

Mr B

 

[eSCHEn]

Way too stubby, should be much pointier freshly ground.

Is the entrance hole that dictates the angle worn?

 

[Paul.]

Too short for DC, you should be aiming for a point length of 2 to 3 times the electrode diameter, that would probably be usable for AN AC prep as an aid to balling, never liked fixed angle grinders personally, much prefer the flexibility of a grindstone, thats a fairly big electrode, 2.4?. unless you are running at highish amps then a 1.6 would be better, and would give a longer point using your grinder
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/w/index.php?title=DC_Electrode_Preparation
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/w/index.php?title=AC_Electrode_preparation

 

[Badger1bear]

It's a new hudmut I believe with no wear, tungsten is 2.4
The angle is fixed so I can't alter entry of the tungsten into the hudmut

 

[AndersK]

Isnt there different holes where you insert the collet?
It probably is, and machined in different angles.

 

[Badger1bear]

Yes there are various sizes to fit each size tungsten

 

[Wayne.]

I have the same tungsten grinder and it works perfect as long as you use it correctly take out the guide from the first hole on the left as you are looking at it replace that guide with the one for your tungsten size then grind simple there should be 5 holes for the guides each will give you a different grind angle just checked and these are the angles from left to right are 10,15,20,25 and 30 degrees

 

[Badger1bear]

BRILLIANT I will give it a try

 

[Richard.]

Remember the angle you prep the electrode changes the width of the arc. Those would really only be of any use if you were doing a thickish square edged butt joint where you want a wider arc transferred across both pieces. You saw how I prepped mine on that soft wheel. That's what you should be looking at for most general tig work 3mm and below. 2-3 times the diameter should be the point length. Fillet welding those preps would be pretty useless. The mud huts I've never used.

 

[Richard.]

Top ones are my pre preped DC tungstens which have slightly varying angles depending on joint.
Bottom ones are my AC tungstens which I grind at 2 angles. The reason I do that is the narrower top angle always produces the perfect shiny ball. Again the top angle I vary in size depending on ball size I want to achieve, depending on joint.
Last pic shows the perfect little shiny ball achieved after use with AC. I rarely change the balance at all from 30% DCEP so it's the electrode prep that I rely on getting the right finish.

 

[Badger1bear]

Does this look better guys ?

 

[eSCHEn]

Much. The question is how are you making it float on that pond?

 

[Badger1bear]

I'm magical my boy

 

[Wayne.]

That's better

 

[Richard.]

Yeah as others have said loads better.

 

[HughF]

The 'less pointy' sections on the hudmut grinder aren't of much use imho. I grind everything in the first 3 positions (the pointy ones)

 

[Screwdriver]

I have never gotten mine to work. Not ever.

I may have to revisit and sort out the positions.

 

[Richard.]

I personally don't think you can beat a soft stone wheel on a bench grinder.

 

[mikejack]

i'm pretty new to this , but i have been using a tormek wet grinder for doing mine , made up a jig to hold the electrode ,1.6 and 2.4 , and i use a cordless drill to turn the electrode slowly whilst using the whole face of the wheel ! don't know if it's the conventional way but it seems to work for me !
will try and put a pic up of my system soon if anyone wants a look !

 

[mikejack]

some pics




this was a very short 2.4 , the longer 1.6's are easier to do !